Advice: Eating on a Budget in Paris

I've sort of written a bit about this topic before... see I'm 25 years old, living in the center of Paris on a pretty restrictive budget, but I am also a huge gastronome and love eating as much as breathing.

For this I began to think about other students on a restrictive budget, those beginning their profesionnal careers or simply just those who would like to eat on the cheap.

Already in a previous post, I mentioned the website "La Fourchette": http://flipflopfrance.blogspot.fr/2012/03/advice-la-fourchette.html

Basically a reduction website in which you sign up, choose the restaurant and book in advance for often a percentage discount or a special dinner menu. There is no penalty for cancelling the reservation, no costs up-front and simply allows an easy way to go to nice restaurants at a reduced price.

Of course, there are other options... Every year, the Paris Region hosts a special event called, "Tous au Restaurant", or everyone in restaurants, which enables anyone living in the Paris area to go to restaurants of Michelin Star quality for the reduced price of "Buy one Get one Free": http://www.tousaurestaurant.com/fr/

However, this reduction and special event is only available for a limited time during the year, and unfortunately the 2012 season has passed... in preparation for 2013:

• Book in advance (otherwise there are no spots available)

Other than this, there is always the fun option of eating at the cooking schools in Paris... normally only available during the weekdays (Monday-Friday) afternoons and evenings, however, one can score a 3-course meal for a measly 16€, a steal... if the chef is actually a good one: http://www.lesitemalin.com/loisirs/cuisine/ou-manger/restaurants-ecoles-hotelieres.htm

Otherwise, opt for the "Menu déjeuner" when possible, always try for the "menu" and not "à la carte", which often proposes a discount for taking the main dish and dessert.

Bong: Not Exactly a Reference to Drug Paraphenlia

When I told some friends that I was going to go to Chez Bong's on Saturday evening they stared at me quizzically trying to pinpoint my secondary life as a drug abuser behind the façade of a hard-working intern.  I waved my hands around, no no no. Bong's.

The joy of moving to Paris was the undoubted capacity to find ethnic and cultural cuisine a few steps from my apartment.  While living in Lyon I was constantly disappointed- there was a fine selection of bouchons hanging around my little street on La Rue des Marronniers but nothing quite like the gastronomic warphole surrounding my time living in Portland.

The front of Bong

The story of Bong started last Saturday.  Bri and I decided to walk around our backstreets in an attempt to hustle up a new restaurant par hasard.  IT was turning the corner on Rue Blomet in the 15ème that a sudden fierce and meaty odor overcame our senses and we began to blindly walk towards a small decrepit restaurant with simple lettering: Bong.

Bong, as we came to discover, was a Korean eatery, specialising in a Korean meal known as Korean Barbeque.  Basically a sort of table top barbeque of a pungent marinated meat grilled by the customer and then eaten with a variety of sauces and fermented vegetables (namely the Kimchi).

We wanted in. Except, désolé, pas de place ce soir, proved that this place was a place you had to reserve in advance.

The next Saturday, 8:30 pm, we wandered in to a bright, smiling host, almost hugging us to enter into the establishment and feed us an incredibly decadent meal.

As the owner explained, Eat bite is a journey for your mouth, you take a little rice, a little meat, a little sauce.  If you like spicy, a sliced green hot pepper.  Wrap in the rice, eat, and continue.  We always have soup and a bowl of rice... but you do the work.  Please enjoy.

Bri grilled, as the "korean tradition" called for, I simply stuffed myself.  The meat has a sort of 'melt-in-your-mouth' quality... as if the marinade had literally allowed the meat to become so tender eating it required no chewing.  The marinade itself was pungent, sweet and yet carried that evervescent undertone of a slightly salty and nutty flavor.

Each condiment had it's own variety of flavors, that fermented bitter and spicy taste of a well-made Kimchi, large slices of green jalapeno peppers that burned the lips on contact, but was insatiable when eaten.  A spicy red sauce that although was hot on contact has this neverending flavor that only enhanced the flavor of the meat.  Even Bri, a Frenchman, sucked down each morsel rolled into a batvia leaf staring adoringly at the meat, proclaiming, "Where has this been all my life?"


If you've never tried Korean food, or if you are simply dying to find a good Korean place... I highly recommend Bong.  From the honest smile an owner can give (no extra charges for our second plate of Batvia) to the simply said, succulent marinated meat grilled in front of your very eyes- it's simply a culinary experience.


I don't think you will be able to turn around once you get within 1/2 mile of the restaurant... the smell will simply pull you in and for a few hours, somehow, you will no longer be in Paris but in a small crowded restaurant in Busan or Seoul.

Real Tapas in Paris

Last weekend we were craving tapas, the sort that we remembered in Barcelona.. one day we were on vacation down south and went to a very local Tapas Joint in a small quarter of the city.  One bottle of cava rosa, fried chorizo, fresh seafood, bocadillos smeared with a garlic and tomato spread, stuffed to the hilt with fresh Pork charcuterie.. That's what we were looking for.

We figured since Paris is so international there would have to be a tapas bar of quality in the area, and we were not wrong.

It happened on a sunny day, strolling around the 8th arrondissment and we spotted the tiny joint, covered by a plastic sheet, not too fancy but idealistic.  El Cerventes was our going to spot and we called to make a reservation, already the home-style type, there is no fixed line.  Cell phone direct, he said, "No way. We are booked up." Ah.

So to avoid the same problem we called on Wednesday to book for Saturday, and same thing, booked, at least 2 weeks in advance.. but come to the 2nd service and we'll find you a spot.

We arrived in the Paris rain, waiting just outside their plastic covered entrance.  10 minutes.

The best was walking in, the place could only seat maybe 30 people at most, and we were tucked away in the corner and began snapping off orders.

Chorizos Fritos
Pulpa Salada
Tortilla Patatas
Queso
Pan


Our two other friends ordered a main dish, a salmon and a large steak.  Large is an understatement, it was massive.  The salmon that perfect under cooked texture, moist and incredibly flavorful.

We ate and ate, it was amazing.  The flavors were authentic, so spicy and yet well balanced. The queso manchego was exactly how I remember, that slight picanto taste, washed down with a sangria.

The best was the prices, four people ate at a price of only 56€ total.. and when I say ate, we were full and practically rolling back home.

So, if you want some authenticity and a little Espagnol escape, try:

El Cervantes
46 Rue Daubenton 75005
http://fr.nomao.com/2104005.html

But remember, call 2 weeks in advance... AND they do not accept cards, so pull out cash or get your check book ready.

Viva l'Espagna!

Cupcakes in Paris: What a Fad

Fad or fade in French (same pronunciation). Actually that word means boring in French, but the word in French that typically fits into our American concept would be la mode or une tendance.  So what is up with all this tendance around the word cupcake?

Recently I was watching a reportage on M6 discussing the explosion of American bakeries around Paris.  I decided to do a bit of investigation and try to list out some of these cupcake houses by arrondisement, but then got carried into a whole new domain.

le cupcake

According to the French a cupcake is:

• A masculine noun (meaning starts with "le" or "un")
• Une tendance du moment (the current fad)
• Comes from any Anglo-Saxon country, but usually America
• Called "Fairy Cakes" in Britain (who knew?)
• Called "cup cakes" due to the fact we use a "cup measure" to make them and they are the size of a tasse
• Popular for tea parties, weddings, birthdays, baptisms and birthdays
• An art in pastry-making that allows for ANY kind of cupcake and flavor (toujours sucré)

According to Americans, a cupcake is:

• Traced back to 1796
• Small individual cakes designed for one person
• Becoming more a trend as years go on

Now, I am used to the whole cupcake frenzy, when I was working at the Children's Museum in Portland we had lots of fancy fundraising events, the start was usually Cupcake Jones, a luxury cupcakery that sells 12 of little mini fancy cakes at 16.50$ a pop.

That whole upscale pricing has caught onto the explosion of Cupcake shops in Paris.  It's become such a fad that Parisiens are even dishing out piles of cash for the tools and classes.

Fait Maison, les Kits Cupcakes

For example, Made in Cupcake offers cupcake making kits at a price of 13€.  Some searches can show kits selling at even higher prices, such as the Sibo Sibon kits selling at 27€ for the cupcake papers, coloring kit and some sprinkles... things I used to buy at the dollar store in the States.

Kit Cupcake, 27€ Sibo Sibon

The most shocking seems to be the ateliers created by pastry makers in Paris to teach the common house wife, girlfriend, loving boyfriend or die-hard Ameriphile how to create little masterful cupcakes.  L'Atelier des Gateâux charges about 45€ for a cupcake making course, and in the end you can take home a little box of your masterful creations... about 7 cupcakes designed and made by yourself.

Thanksgiving Store: Chocolate Kit, 5€

Gone are the days when I bought a box of quick-mix, threw in some veggie oil, water and eggs and scooped the mixture into mini cake pans.. this is a whole new level of fancy that I never even knew existed.  

Some of my favorite flavors I've discovered (from Scarlett's Bakery):

• Tiramisu: Coffee flavored, cream cheese topping
• Pistache: Pistachio flavored, cream cheese topping
• Citron Meringué: Vanilla bean base, meringue topping
• Red Velvet:  Red velvet cake base, cream cheese frosting

Now onto some addresses:

Berko

23 Rue Rambuteau, 75004 Paris

Established in 1988, several great reviews

Synie's Cupcakes

23 Rue de l'Abbé Grégoire, 75006 Paris

Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 8pm

Cupcakes and co

16 Rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris

3,50€ a cupcake, open Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 7pm

Miss Cupcake

22 rue la Vieuville, 75018 Paris

4€ a cupcake, considered pretty expensive and reviews not too hot

L'Atelier des Gâteaux

23 Rue de l'Abbé Grégoire, 75006 Paris

Open odd hours, 2:30 to 6:30pm Thursday through Saturday, 3,50€ a cupcake

Oh mon Cake!!

154 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Open every day 11:30 to 8:30pm

Sugarplum Cake Shop

68 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Paris

Great American café feel, unlimited drip coffee and CARROT CAKE

Can you think of any others...?

My Night in China

I can count the days on my fingers before I train it to Paris, and it is passing by quickly.  As Bri isn't here, I'm been busying myself with packing suitcases for Paris (we're doing a move via TGV, more to come later), eating with girlfriends and partying.

Partying?

Let me rephrase that, utterly destroying my French Master's friends with bottles upon bottles of alcohol.

How much alcohol?

About this much.. for those who need a count, that's about 8 bottles of wine, plus a boxed wine (3 bottles), two full bottles of liquer, an 1/8 of a bottle of Absinthe... plus later into cleaning I uncovered 4 more bottles of wine.

Roughly, 11,25 liters of 12% alcohol, and about 2 liters of hard alcohol.  For about 16 people... so.. a lot.

This was the end to a very long week, one event at the Chamber of Commerce in Paris, one morning of terrible illness and then a train at 6am the next day.

All in all I was thrilled when my good Chinese friend, Qingyun, invited me for a free Chinese dinner at some of her close friends.  

The minute we walked into the restaurant, I could see it was clean and family oriented.  Bisous passed around, Qingyun began rapid fire Mandarin with the chef and then her herself pointed to a giant bucket of dinosaur-looking body parts.

"We are going to eat chicken feet tonight!" I smiled, I wasn't shocked, this is exactly what I wanted to eat. I had heard about for years from my Sister, and I was thrilled to eat with the family and be a part of the experience.

The chef's jacket was a little too large.

The kitchen was covered with the dense smells of spices, I noted around me, ginger, garlic, star anise, cinnamon, salt, pepper, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, soy sauce...  The chef expertly used his giant spoon to eyeball out the quantities and toss into his wok that he tossed around as though it weighed nothing.  A giant chef's knife laid on the chopping board, which he's used to chop the toes off the chicken feet, mince up the vegetables.

I watched with intrigue as I realized this dinner wasn't a little dinner, they had made about 5 different dishes.  2 dishes were crab based, one short ribs, one chicken feet, another with mussels, fresh baby peas.  Qingyun jumped on the wok and began doing the same, I sat back afraid to touch anything, but observing nonetheless.

"You like spicy?" She smiled at me, "Most white people don't like too spicy, the French like sweet or bland..." I nodded, of course I loved spicy.  I used to eat jalapenos on my eggs for breakfast!

Finally the meal was coming together, the chef adding the finishing touches, a dash of salt, a ladle full of sauce:

Adding the sauce

Presenting the Crab Dish

I sat at the table, set before me a completely luxurous meal...

Two types of crab, (the mussels and feet came after)

I ate SO MUCH!

So.

Story is, if you wanna have some good Chinese, for not too expensive either A. Find a Chinese friend, or B. Go to Seng Heng in Lyon 3ème: http://www.webcity.fr/seng-heng-lyon/lieu

The owners are incredibly nice, patient and even though they've tried to branch out to Japanese specialities, try to ask for the typical Chinese dishes; dumplings.. Very high quality, clean kitchen and gentille staff.

a+

Midnight in Lyon..

It's been one year and a half that I've lived in Lyon, and I realized recently that I've never discovered or lived in Lyon alone!

Bri is in Paris starting his new job and apartment hunting, I'm stuck in Lyon for my Master's program until the beginning of February... and so yesterday I decided to go and venture around my city.

I'd never been to the Musée Gadagne since I moved to Lyon, but I mean a free entrance to a museum for a Lyon Gastronomie display?  I couldn't resist.  I packed a compote and a bottle of water, my journal and my walking boots; off I was on my very own to a Lyonnais museum!

Les Toques Blanches de Lyon (in my garden!)

It was lovely to walk through the city at my own pace, in silence, listening to the people around me.  It was in the actual exhibit that I was enamoured, posters of food, photos of the famous Cuisiniers and Cuisinières, I looked at every single detailed menu, watched every black and white video.  The exhibit is not that impressive, in regards to actual 'gastronomy', but there were a few things I picked up on and tucked away in my journal:

When visiting the musée Gadagne, I can almost imagine myself with the famous Gourmands of Lyon.  A sort of "Midnight in Lyon", instead of the 'high time' with artists and painters in Paris, it is a Golden Age of eating and gourmandises.  Lyon was for foodies what Paris was for artists... while artists and writers were indulging in social abnormalities, the foodies were just doing what they do best... eating!

Even though Julia Child mentions that Paris was an amazing culinary hot-spot, even the great Curnosky wrote, Lyon est la capitale mondiale de gastronomie.  Can't argue with the Prince of Gourmand!

La Mère Brazier

I was amazed at the culinary freedom of the 1920's and 1930's and longed to jetset back in time to sit at a table with Mère Brazier, Mère Fillioux and Curnosky...

What's more incredible is the feminism so prevalent in this era- why do I say this?  Because women truly were the creators of the Lyon Gastronomy!  I stared at the photos, imagining the times... there was respect to these women because they could cook.  These women, the lost generation of the culinary world in Lyon were the epitomy of feminism.  Enormous amounts of respect were doted upon their culinary confections, and they remain important and engrained in Lyon history!

So potentially in France... if you can cook you can earn respect?

But what is up with this whole Lyon cuisine?  What was amazing was the distinctive contrast between the Bourgeois dishes (Brasserie Georges, etc) and the typical Bouchon (la Mère Jean) also known as La Cuisine Guignolesque which was for the hard workers.  One of the videos in the museum shows a report wandering around and asking locals:

Reporter:  Pensez-vous d'être un gourmand?

Man 1: Tout à fait que oui, nous sommes des plus grandes gourmands ici à Lyon... on adore les choses bonnes à manger, les cochonnailles, la viande... du vin.. du fromage...

Report: (Same question)

Older Woman: Mais oui!  Je suis une gourmande.. j'adore à manger!

I am not a personal fan of Bocuse... who has taken the idea of being a Foodie and capitalised it until it's just a bunch of carbon-copy restaurants with little or no creativity.  I love the simple, local, bouchons... with a pot du vins and a tender quenelle.

Les Toques Blanches.. les mères de Lyon.. Oh la la!

This move is going to be tough.

a+

Noël in France: Typical Christmas Meal

It's that time of year again, I almost can't believe it myself.. as I look back through photos it will officially be my 4th Christmas in Europe.  First was in a tiny town in the Eastern side of Germany, then the consecutive three were here in Lyon with Bri's family.

I realized, however, I never actually detailed a typical Christmas meal!  So here goes from decadent 'apéritif' to the intense dessert.

First Course: Champagne + Petit Fours
Often a high quality champagne, well chilled, served in Crystal flutes.  A typical french meal offers heated up appetizers, often snack sized bits, hot dogs rolled in some puff pastry.  Some snails stuffed into puff shells and baked until tender.  Christmas time marks a very 'fishy' time, while there is often some puff pastry snacks, there is also a fish egg tapenade spread over toasts.

I am personally not a super fan of the egg-tapenade, but it starts a great meal... plus the champagne (in a true French family) is usually a good quality.


Now at this point we are starting to get hungry, so the best part comes next-






Second Course: Huitres and Champagne
To cleanse the taste buds and to prepare for the evening, we usually have a basket of raw oysters after apéro.  Another bottle of champagne is usually popped open at this point, and *SLURP* goes the oysters.

Raw, we slurp them down with a 'shallot, red wine vinegar sauce' or simply a squeeze of fresh lemon.  I never loved oysters until accompagnied with a chilled champagne, and now I couldn't live without my shooters.

Of course... at this point we get a bit full, but allez! we continue.

Third Course: Sauternes, Foie Gras and Saumon Fumé
So about 3 cups into bubbly, stomach's getting tight, but next is the best.  Some toasted brioche toasts, butter smeared and melted with foie gras.

Now, for some in the States, foie gras is horrible.  Yes it's true that the poor birds are force-fed.. but it's equally true that Foie Gras is one of the most amazing things that I have ever tasted.


For those who avoid 'cruelty' we have some saumon fumé or smoked salmon, a little lemon zested and some buttered toast... simplicity!

Fourth Course: Main Dish
From this point we take a small break, usually a 15 minute digestion break before the main dish is presented.  Normally this is a roasted turkey, a game animal... My favorite Christmas dinner was a slow roasted wild pig in a red wine reduction.  Normally served with some time of a purée, it's difficult to get through the 4th course.. only to get to..



Fifth Course: Fruits, Cheese and Nuts
To help with digestion, usually a bowl of fruits and nuts (fresh) are accompagnied with the cheese platter.  A typical French Christmas cheese is the Mont d'Or, as well as the Petit Basque.

Usually we continue from our switch to red wine, and the cups of wine are in the 10s.

We try to eat a little bit of all the cheese... of course some just give up at this point.

Sixth Course: La Bûche de Noël
Finally, after shoving our mouths full of deliciousness, we get to the typical 'Bûche de Noël', the log-shaped cake covered in chocolate ganache.  I usually can only handle a small piece at this point.  It's very rich and often comes in different flavors.





Seventh and FINAL Course: Digestif and Papilottes
In France, during Christmas, all the grocery stores stock up on these chocolates called, papilottes, very rich chocolates individually wrapped with inspirational messages.  Around 12am we finish stuffing our face, and then out pops the chocolate and strong alcohol to help digest.  A verre of Whiskey, Mar or any alcohol will do.. and then..

Well..

You can imagine.  Here is me after dinner last year, no joke, I literally sprawled on the couch and couldn't move.

Then, wake up, open gifts and at 1PM the next day dig in for LUNCH.  That's right, we repeat all of this the next day.

Then one week later.

That's why the average French person gains between 2-4 pounds in a week between the 25th of December and the 1st of January.

Bon Appetit!

a+

What-What: Le Jardin des Dombes

Hidden in a non-descript alley in la Croix Rousse in Lyon is a restaurant that I have fallen head over heels for.  How could one not be in love when there is a menu for 25 euros for a dish of unlimited frog legs?

Of course, today being my big 24th birthday I decided the best way to celebrate was to haul my Mom and Bri to an all-you-can-eat frog leg palace and make it worth it.  I mean, all you can eat buffets are one thing, but an endless supply of frog legs are a rarity in France... plus seeing Bri's eyes go wide with joy only makes the experience even better.

Le Jardin des Dombes was the first restaurant I searched in France when I had a huge craving for frog around our anniversary in February.  I was even more excited to drag my American mother into the local restaurant and share the experience of sucking tiny little frog bones and waddling home with a stomach coated in butter and parsley.  Plus what better way to enjoy her last Sunday in France, and my goal to truly profit and get as round as possible before I end up having to study all the time.

We crawled up to the restaurant, only taking slight detours to purchase some pastries for my birthday, and sitting down I looked at the young waiter and simply stated, on va prendre trois de votre menu grenouille à volonté. He smiled, nodded and collected our menus.

Quickly we smelt the frying of the legs and a giant dish was placed in front of our faces.  Brian dished out the frogs and gave a short presentation on our frog eating skills, pull apart this leg, take of this meat, suck on that part. Soon enough we were in a feeding frenzy of frog dipping our bread into the sauce and eating the tiny sticks of meat.

Amazingly, as a Sunday, it was packed and full of families sucking down frog.  I leaned over the edge of the upstairs seating area to watch the older couples eating together.  I looked at Bri, I want to be like that, and after the 3rd plate of frogs we were filled.

Toss in a couple of pots du vin and mix in a serving of home made ice cream and we were stuffed.  The best part of the restaurant however, was the conversation afterwards.  I smiled at the young waiter and the chef who had wandered upstairs (we were the last); Est-ce que c'est bien un restaurant familial ici? The chef nodded, warmly and pointed to the young waiter, Il est mon fils et ma soeur, elle travaille ici des fois aussi donc, ouais, c'est familial ici.  I nodded and added, j'adore ça, j'adore les entreprises qui sont familials, etc.  As the chef wandered downstairs, I sparked a conversation with the waiter and he asked, vous venez d'où exactement? I replied, les états-unis, je suis une américaine, I mentioned my Master, he joked about the difference between Lyon 2 and Lyon 3.

The joys of the Jardin des Dombes were over as quickly as they started and I waved as I left.

Experiences in life are as quickly as they start, c'est la vie, and so I realized in the little family restaurant up in the Croix Rousse that typical French family environment...

Also, word to the wise, the menu isn't translated.  That way we know it's good.

a+

World Different part 2: The Real Gastronomy Capital

I didn't believe the waiter when he told us the list of food that was available on the menu, and moreso the fact that it was only 15€ for the appetizer, main dish and dessert as well as wine (unlimited), entrance salad and toast combo with fresh charcuterie.

I remember coming home last Friday and dreading the reading on the scale.  The 128.5 flashed and burned into my brain and I thought, where did I gain 3 lbs from in 2 weeks? Looking back at this restaurant the answer became depressingly clear.

He listed off the names of the items in rolling Spanish, myself only listening for the things I really wanted to order. Rrsshh blaah blaahhh, rlshshh, blah, Gazpacho, sshhh.

"Gazpacho por favor".

Now onto main dish,

Psshh, rrrssiii, possifh, bacalao con all i oli...

"Bacalao para mi".

Rosado.

One thinks that because a menu is a mere 15€, the quality would be moderate.  The gazpacho arrived, a giant bowl, placed at my fingers.  I took one bite and was in heaven.  How could this little local spot have such amazing food for so cheap?  Well, it wasn't on the sea, it was mostly a spot for locals of Alcossebre and they reflected the prices that local people could pay.

With every course I ate, every fresh seafood product, each paella I chowed down and tapas that I exploded in my belly... I decided that Spain, especially the Catalunyan Region, should be the gastronomic capital of the world.  How could it not?

There are pork legs dried and strung everywhere in every corner of the streets, the paella has this soft subtly and a hint of saffron.





Seafood is captured fresh each day by local fisherman and delivered, hand delivered to the local restaurants.

There are scams, don't get me wrong, there were restaurants we visited where we were disgusted at the price... but when the delights were found it was 10x better than my favorite Lyonnaise restaurants.

The tapas.. how can something as simple as a grilled piece of toast with some smeared on tomatoes and garlic taste as fabulous as it did?

They don't do cheese well, but the one cheese they have mastered is by far the best- Queso Manchego.  Creamy in texture, deep in flavor, it melts in the mouth and offers a beautiful taste of a local product.

I remember that although the Paella Marisco was to die for, I was perfectly happy eating toasts with local charcuterie, queso manchego and chilled rosado wines.

This sparkly bubbly wine was a treat at the Con Paixano, pictured left, where we gorged on sandwiches, bubbly and queso manchego.  I think that was 1 lb there.

How is it all so amazing and yet so un 'haute cuisine' like in France? Simply put, the products.  Spain has the most incredible products, you can't drink the water from the faucet, granted, but those tomatoes made me drool.  They had chips that were fried in Olive Oil giving them this taste that I'd never had before- so much I smuggled a bag in my backpack to France.




I think next time I'll shoot to gain 5 lbs.  We only live once- right?

World Different part 1: Barcelona (Can Paixano)

My trip to Spain was a selection of different experiences that would take too many words to detail; instead I will be writing a series of my favorite memories in order to high light the adventure in Spain, now, first of Can Paixano:

It was a warm day when Bri and I packed our bags to head to Barcelona.  Not a typical vacation, we left to partake on a shared apartment with his parents and brother.  The first stop, however, in order to avoid traffic and given there was no place in the car, was to go to Barcelona via EasyJet (for only 80 round trip!).

It was surprisingly simple, we packed our bags a week in advance, we boarded with no problems and we landed in sunny Barcelona at about 12pm the 6th.  Strapped with just our overnight clothes we made our way to the center using their AeroBus system and popped off to purchase some metro passes.

We already knew what we wanted to see, it wasn't the hovering tower nor the fantastic church.  A friend of mine once gave me the name and address to a secretive local tapas bar, supposedly known to have the cheapest cava and the best tapas.  Of course, true gastronomes, we decided that to be our first destination.

The city is not easy to figure out, even lined with a GPS we got lost several times, we finally walked the 2 miles to get to the sea and hung a left straight to the tapas bar.  Can Paixano is a hidden spot located off a dingy street near the port.  The bar is stand up only, and elbows are needed in order to get something to eat.  The air conditioning rambles away in the background as the local clientale (mostly construction workers) are screaming out, "HOLA! EY HOLA!" to get the attention of the bar guy.  We got lucky and found ourselves a spot at the bar, and quickly ordered a bottle of the Cava Rosat for 5€, and an array of charcuteries and sandwiches.  If you are faint of the heart or slightly OCD, this place is not for you.  The trash can is the floor, once a sandwich is finished the thin paper gets tossed to the ground.  The kitchen is open plan, so the workers are constantly trudging around in old leftovers, the sandwiches made with no gloves.  Who said hygiene equals good food any way?

Halfway through our Rosat, we snapped a picture trying to eternalize the emotion or the sentiment surrounding the bar.  Our little glass of Rosat, our cheap bottle, the action... unfortunately we were too involved in enjoying to even snap the photo.

Bri waves over the barman, another cava, on our second bottle we are feeling Spanish.  The people surrounding us are only speaking in that beautiful lispy language, cheering each other, demanding more food.  Bri turns to a group of local construction workers and begins a conversation in his Fringspanol.  They cheer, pour more cava into our cups, order the local specialty in charcuterie and invite us to go dancing.  They smile and introduce themselves, call me muy guapa and continue the festivities.

It's finally 4pm when we wander out of the Can Paixano.  Where were we?  Suddenly we are feeling the heat of Barcelona and the effects of 2 bottles of Cava wine.  We decide best action is to go to the sea, in our underwear.

Which is exactly what Bri does, wandering off into the sea, smiling and overjoyed at the previous 2 hours we just spend gorging ourselves and welcoming ourselves to Spain.  The sea was warm, that gentle mediterranean sea that floats around you.  No one took notice that Bri was in underwear, nor that we were intoxicated and full.


It's decided, we will come back tonight and show his parents the magic.  Except, hours later, when we return it's a different world.  Suddenly all the locals are gone and are replaced with a myriad of tourists getting drunk and not eating.  The air conditioner has started leaking and the parents are extremely disappointed.  We realized that the Can Paixano, like a manic depressive relative, has decided to show a darker and unpleasant side.  At day, a local eatery known for high quality and good company, at night, tourists taking advantage of pricing and getting drunk before 10pm.

We head off to our hotel, deflated but yet satiated from the whole day and prepare for our next departure.

Recipe: Roasted Ratatouille

I don't often put recipes up, because hey, everyone is entitled to eat how they wish and my blog is by far one of those super-foodie blogs rampant with food photos.

But this ratatouille rocked.  It also rocked because it used cheap in season vegetables from the marché.  It rocked because it took like no time... and then we had an awesome meal.

As always, it's for two people..

What you need:
-1 aubergine, medium sized, cut into 1" or so pieces
-2 courgettes, chopped
-2 tomatoes, cut into quarters
-2 cloves of garlic
-1/2 green pepper chunky cut
-1 onion cut into large chunky slices
-Drizzle of olive oil
-Drizzle of red wine vinegar
-herbes de Provence seasoning
-Salt/pepper

I just tossed all the above into a metal bowl and stuck it into the fridge until I needed to put it in the oven.







Take a nap.

Vaccuum the house.

Do some dishes.

But remember to stick it into a baking dish and bake for 1 hour or so on 200°C.  Gets all gooey and melty, fabulous.

Serve with some protein, my our case I did a black bean purée, sliced pork roast and the ratatouille.

bon appetit!

Recipe: Beef and Shrooms

I don't normally like to write out my recipes, since I normally change our dinner every night and I can never remember what it was I made... however last night was an especially delicious, inexpensive and filling dinner and so I thought I'd share.  The total cost was about 5 euros total for a giant pot.  De-li-ci-e-use.  This recipe is for 2.

Donc.

First off you'll need just a few basic ingredients:

• 450g of beef stew meat (called boeuf bourguinon), cut into tiny morsels and deveined
• Marinate in 2 tablespoons vinaigre de vin rouge and 5 tablespoons l'huile d'olive vièrge and 1/2 cup de l'eau for 3 hours before cooking.
• Rinse and dry well before cooking.
• Shake with 1/2 cup seasoned flour
• 250g mushrooms (champignons de paris) 
• 4 tbs beef stew seasoning mix (my mom sends it, here's a recipe if your not-so-lucky):
• "2 cups Flour
  4 teaspoons Oregano (origan)
  2 tablespoons basil (basilisque)
  4 1/4 tablespoons salt (sel)
  4 1/4 tablespoons black pepper (poivre noire)
  4 1/4 tablespoons Garlic Powder (l'ail sec moulu)
  4 1/4 tablespoons Paprika (piment doux)
  1 teaspoon cayenne powder (poivre de cayenne) you can buy this at Cap épices in the 2ème 2 T Celery Seed
  4 1/4 tablespoons Onion Powder (not available in France, but just use fresh)
  2 tsp. rosemary (romarin)
  Measure all ingredients into a large ziploc bag, shake well." - from trecipes forum
• Salt/Pepper/Bay Leaf (lauriel)
• 1/2 onion, 2 garlic cloves, both minced.

Small list- right? Now onto how to make it:

1. Take the floured meat and sauté in a pot with a couple tablespoons of olive oil.
2. *Déglace* the pan by adding 1/2 cup of water, stirring around to get the sticky bits up.
3. Add 2 cups of water.
4. Add the mushrooms.
5. Add the seasoning.
6. Boil on a low heat for 3 hours, stirring every 30 minutes or so until it thickens and bubbles.
7. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over some patates écrasés:

Easy. Cheap. Delicious.

That's how I roll.

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Things to Do: Picnic in the Park

As promised from my 'bread' post I want to share the secrets to a perfect picnic in Lyon.  Nothing is as uncomplicated but yet so enjoyable as a fabulous picnic between friends.  Here's what you'll need:

• Friends:  You can picnic alone, of course, but a group of 3+ tends to be more convivial
• Food: Ah, here's where the joy comes in.. either go for fancy be creating some dishes such as:
• Quiche
• Taboulé Salad
• Tomato/Basil/Red Onion Salad
• BLT (Bacon Lettuce Tomato) Sandwiches
• Fruit salad
• Baguette
• OR simplify:
• Cherry Tomatoes
• Packs of Salami/saucisson
• Chips
• Brie/gooey fromage
• Baguette
• OR spend some cash:
• Go to Brind'Soupe on 70 rue masséna
• For 9 bucks get entrée/plat/dessert packed up and ready to go
• OR go to Pizza Hut on Rue Massena and get their 5 buck pizza deal
• Booze: Not obligatory, but tends to be much more fun and interesting with a chilled bottle of rosé wine in tow.
• Necessaries:
• Bottled water
• Napkins
• Trash bag
• Forks
• One knife
• Bottle opener

Now the spot.  There are three spots I like to visit in rotating occasions:

1/ The Parc de la Tête d'Or:  Everyone knows this place and it's usually a great place with a group of people. As a warning, avoid large crowded areas in the park or you could get hit in the head with a soccer ball.  We usually cycle up to the main entrance, take a right into the large park and find an area with a tree nearby.

2/ Place Antonin Poncet:  Suprisingly unknown to many, the little area that has a below level parking garage, located to la Rue des Marronniers, also has a fairly clean grassy area with a lovely fountain next door.  Need an address?  Just head for le Sud and then picnic in the grass.

3/ Sur le Quai:  Of course, typical evening spot on the waterfront.. side of the Rhone.  Fabulous area, and can always wander to a boat bar after for a digestive.

Here's some of my favorite picnics:

Quick - like the French version of McDonalds

Park among French friends (parc de la tête d'or) 2011

Best Picnic Ever (or close), rosé wine, cheese, chicken salad, baguette, chips.

What's your favorite picnic?

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Advice: Le Pain (bread)

Summer time in Lyon, it's almost like a beautiful... magical.. swealtering hot time in which we can abandon all worries and take a weekend off to have a summer picnic.

Everyone has their own preference as to what makes a *perfect picnic*, but I have my own special picnic that I find.. well frankly amazing.  A few months back I talked about my favorite food shops, so you'll need to know the addresses for these in order to make up a Sasha Picnic.  The Sunday post I do will be on my own special picnic- but first thing's first; the bread.

It starts with a baguette.

Baguettes are the staple food in France, every French person has a baguette on their table during a meal, pieces torn off and put directly on the table (not on a plate).

Little know the history of bread in France, and I'm not about to give a detailed account... just a basic summary.

Every few steps in Lyon, one can find a Boulangerie- not every boulangerie holds a high quality baguette, but every boulangerie definitely has a baguette.  Sold unwrapped and set about the shop, the baguette is an experience in it's own.  Nothing compares to a French baguette in the states; from the crisp of the crust, to the dense bubbly interior- ready as a staple to sauce your plate, or simply to cut open and smother with a thick camembert cheese.

Bread has been a staple in the French meal since the middle ages, but has taken changes over time.  Upon introduction of white flour in the 16th century by the Italian nobility the Medicis, and the idea of using bread as a leavening agent, bread began to take on the whiter hue we see in modern day Baguettes.  Crisis in the 19th century turned Bonaparte to create laws to protect the prices of bread, and as always, bread has remained an essential.  The one stereotype that rings true, most French people to have a baguette in their hand when returning home.

Made an average of three times a day, a majority of boulangeries in France make it fresh from the start- from this flour is considered a state commodity and the government actually provides subsidies so flour retains a moderately low price in market.  One can buy 1 kilo of farine for only 2€, that's about 1€ a pound!

But- there are more than baguettes.  Allow me to explain (source: observatoire du pain):

Le Pain Tradition Français

A bread created from bread flour, water, salt and a rising ingredient.  Due to simplicity it is a very 'bubbly' bread, meaning there are many holes in the dough.  Great for picnics as it retains wells, and works great with creamy cheeses.








Under this category:

• La Banette (more triangular shaped than a baguette, tends to be fluffier, specialty recipe)
• La Baguette (typical slim round baguette)
• Pain au Levain (Sour Dough bread)

Le Pain Complet

Complet, meaning whole wheat.  This bread tends to be a much toothier bread , whole grain.  I usually eat sliced with melted butter/honey for breakfast.  Tends to over ride the flavor of dishes and doesn't mesh well with cheeses.  Better as a breakfast item.

Other 'complet'

• Pain au Siegle (rye bread)
• Pain aux 5 céréales
• Pain aux Noix (nut bread, very delicious)

Le Pain de Compagne

Campagne, the countryside, this bread is even more toothy than the pain complet. It's fabulous a little on the dry side served in the winter with a nice potage de boeuf or a soup.

Pain de Mie

Pain de Mie, is the sliced bread we are used to in the states.  I have rarely eaten this in France; but it is used for French Toast (which is a dessert; not breakfast in France).  Even sadnwiches are not made with it; usually we use baguettes sliced open.  The French love their crusts.

Le Pain Brioché

Pain Brioché, or just simply Brioche, is a dense, fluffy and rich sweet bread that is often served toasted for breakfast.  Tends to be full of butter, so be aware!  Definitely not for a dinner bread, but fabulous for breakfast with some butter and jam.

So.  In the states we think *bread*, we think sliced white packaged from last week.  In France, bread is an art and a sustenance for the daily meal.

Now, you gotta try all the types of bread and find your favorite- personally I'm a Banette type of gal.

P.S.  My favorite boulangerie:  Les Garçons Boulangers.  Miam.

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What-What: Paul Bocuse

After dinner with my French family last night we watched a documentary on the life and current state of Paul Bocuse.  I recall that the moment I arrived in France I had no idea who Paul Bocuse was and why he was so important.  Interestingly enough he's definitely a famous personality in our little region and our city of Lyon- but he's also got a bit of a juicy history!

Paul Bocuse was born in the 1920's in the mountainous area of Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or near Lyon.  Born into a family of chefs, he began cooking quite young and helped to run his family restaurant "l'Auberge de Collonges".  Bocuse was involved in WWII, and following this went on to achieve a series of Michelin stars in his restaurant before beginning his last 30 years of marketing and branding.

Now, an old man at 85 years old, Bocuse sort of just panders around for money... I say this with a sort of 'gentillesse' but, in reality, the guy knows how to get money.  Once one of the most innovative chefs, now a man who utilizes his name to make as much as a profit as he can.  I'd like to highlight two of his most famous creations:

Soupe aux Truffes:  A simply delightfully rich soup that is composed of those oh-so-expensive truffles.  I probably will never make this at home, but I would love to try it when I have enough cash to eat at his establishments.  RECIPE: http://www.bocuse.fr/recettes/ficherecette.asp?id=199

Loupe de Méditeranée en Croute:  How can anyone go wrong with a sea bass bundled into a feuillité and served with a decadent sauce?  Always the one to push from 'fatty' to 'cardiovascular destruction' this takes a healthy dish and twists it into a buttery delight.  RECIPE: http://www.bocuse.fr/recettes/ficherecette.asp?id=194

However... there is more to this 85 year old dude, not only is he a keen marketer, a top chef and a legend to Lyon.. the guy is a virile as we say in French, or basically a love monkey.  Bocuse has three women that he has been seeing similtaneously for the last 30 or so years, officially married to one, he keeps three houses in order to satisfy his craving for different personalities... way to balance the love boat.

Raymone, Raymonde and Patricia.  Somehow we never truly hear about the fact Bocuse is a polygamist, most likely because his amazingly talent in the kitchen leads us to sort of forget the three-women syndrome.  Why 3?

One of them is his hunting/outdoors partner.  Every day, after waking up next to his wife (Raymonde) he wanders out to his forest home to see his lover (Patricia).  Together they walk around the lake, slowly taking in the scenery.  He makes open-fire meals from the animals they fish or hunt together... a parade of hunting dogs following behind.

Once this gets boring, he heads out with the other one for his foreign affairs, her with her coiffed up hair and pristine young look, perfect for photos and the superficiality.  She loves to travel, so she comes with him oftern around the world.

What about his actual wife?  Well she's there for any official 'local' publicity.  Taking photos with the chef dressed in his toke, smiling and still looking as though none of this is abnormal.

It's strange.. but yet so French?  It seems more of a parisian attitude to have mistresses and lovers, and the Lyonnais tend to be more on the 'stick to one' type of relationship.. but Bocuse opens that for discussion.

Outside of Bocuse's private life he runs a few restaurants in Lyon.  Le Sud, Le Nord, L'Est, L'Ouest.  He also has the original restaurant located on the collonges-au-mont-d'or... for a price.  By far, L'Est is the best restaurant out of his collection.

Want to catch a glimpse of the master?  Try mornings at Les Halles next to La Mère Richard.. that's an old French and cheesemaker so he oftens makes visits to share a coffee and a laugh.

Now I wonder if anyone ever noticed this...

BOCUSE = GUSTEAU?  Perhaps....

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