Being a Gym Rat in Paris

Another New Year, another resolution to get in shape... especially as one of my State-Side best friends (of the notorious Fab 5 as we are self-entitled) is getting married in August and I am to be the Maid of Honor. An honor, of course, but also the need to be in tip-top permanent photo shape by this summer.

Thus the dilemma of keeping in shape in France begins, as it has before. I once wrote a post about keeping in shape, but lately I've been getting creative and trying the variety of "keep in shape" options that Paris has to offer.

In Paris, every morning or evening, or even during the broad daylight, Parisiens are running about in their gym clothes and keeping in shape the old fashioned way. From "footing" to collective courses, here are the options in Paris:


Footing or Jogging
COST: Free
The French term for jogging or running, basically suit up, strap into some running shoes and off you go. I tend to keep myself to a nice Sunday walk, around 1 hour Sunday evening. Best locationgs to go footing:

• The Eiffel Tower (pretty much a large around the Champs de Mars)
• Bois de Boulogne (also known for the hookers sprawled somewhere in the woods, although which is better- running on dog crap or running across an Eastern hooker? Almost sounds like the beginning to a bad joke...)
• On the waterfronts (although I avoid, due to strolling couples and again, dog crap)
• Jardin du Luxembourg (about 25 hectares, lots of space.. and of course Gendarme eye candy)
• Parc Monceau
• Parc du Montsouris

Just be aware of pick pockets, dog crap on every surface (eyes down) random cracks in the pavement that send you flying head first towards the ground.

Footing or Jogging
COST: Yearly pass for the Velib' - 30€ a year

Once again, the great system of the bike share program, grab a bike from any of the locations in Paris: Station Map also available in the form of an iPhone application, and zip off to the next spot. The best is zipping around the tourists in Paris near the Eiffel Tower and freaking them out!  Just be weary of traffic rules and the fact that Parisian drivers are absolutely bat-crazy.

Krav Maga

COST: 300-450€ for a 9 month unlimited pass

I was once invited to try this type of very aggressive martial arts at the American Church in Paris. For those who hear the words and assume it is an Israelian meal, it is actually a form of Israelian street fighting used by their military for self defense. It sort of reminded me of an intensive kick boxing class, with actual moves one can use in cases of rape, etc. Not alot of high cardio, but definitely great for strength training. I felt it in my arms at least 2 days later.

Each course lasts about 1h30, intensive kicking and punching in the air. Fabulous if the thought of going out scares the crap out of you, and you feel like you want to get some self defense lessons, albeit expensive. Here are some links for more info, times, etc:

• Krav Maga Paris
• Krav Maga Self Defense 11ème-19ème

La Gym Suedoise

COST: 10€ per class, or a seasonal 3 month pass of 300€

I giggled at my co-worker the first time she mentioned the Swedish Gym, she was trying to pressure me to join her for one hour of 80's style aerobics, complete with tight gym clothes in flourescent colors. Of course, one cannot judge unless they've experienced, so I bopped along to the beat with everyone else.

This actually ended up being the closest to my 24 Hour Fitness days in Portland, the intensive ab-crunches, the supportive instructor... however the music was a bit lacking. Better for once a week lessons, just to get yourself moving in an active way.

Convenient as they have many courses across all the different arrondissements in Paris, downside is many classes in the evening are completely blindé and full of post-work crowd.

The website: Gym Suedoise in Paris

An Actual Gym Membership

COST: Between 40€ a month to 1000€ a year

The most ideal for myself, however one must adjust to their living situation. Gyms in Paris are not and will never be the gyms we have Stateside. First off, due to the high costs of rent and lack of space, they tend to be miniscule with machines uncomfortably crunched together. It sort of is like the high school gym all over again, that odd musky smell, lack of air conditioning, disgusting toilets and showers... often used as a glorification to go and sit in a steam room for an hour.

If there are weights at the gym, they are usually occupied by the most bro-ish looking men you'll ever run across, and they won't hesitate to talk to you if you are a lady lifting.

A simple Google search for: Gym Paris or Gymnase Paris will bring up the hundreds of over-priced options.

Zumba

COST: 13€ for a 1 hour course, 18€ for a 2 hour or a book of 10 courses for 115€/160€, unlimited option also available for 100€ for a month.

I discovered Zumba thanks to a friend of mine last summer, if you've done Zumba then you know the difficulty in describing what it is.  It is sort of like Tangoing by yourself in a room full of screaming and clapping ladies, with a sweaty instructor shaking their ass like there is no tomorrow. You think you will end up laughing, but you are trying to hard to concentrate on the movements you end up sweating like a pig, one hour flies and you burned 500 calories in a snap.

However, downside, of course, is that often the courses in Paris are held in clubs, like actual dance clubs. Hence, that awkward vomit and alcohol smell sort of mingled with the musky sweat of non-showering French people (steretype alert) tends to leave you feeling a bit ill. Also, once again, no air conditioning in Paris.

However, courses are held all over Paris, and the unlimited pass allows you to go to any of them:

Zumba in Paris

Join a Sport

COST: Varies between 5€ - 20€ per sport per time-slot, note that it is managed by the state so a working level of French is required

I have yet to join a community club to try out what they offer, the city of Paris has so many things to offer, for young people looking for work, people living in the city and wanting to get out, families, etc.

It's worth a gander: Practicing a Sport in Paris

Over-All

The issue isn't that options aren't there, but it's simply the fact that it is much more difficult to discover these options in Paris as they tend to be hidden and a bit expensive. In America, the fact is our gym system is much better developed... however I have to mention that I eat about the same and don't go to 24 Fitness like I used to and I've managed to keep my weight the same. The car driving is exchanged for a daily 25-40 minute walk, sometimes run (busses or metros) in high heels and avoiding obstacles.

Utilizing a calorie-counting system is also wuite helpful, such as: My Fitness Pal

Bon Activité!

Recipe: Roasted Ratatouille

I don't often put recipes up, because hey, everyone is entitled to eat how they wish and my blog is by far one of those super-foodie blogs rampant with food photos.

But this ratatouille rocked.  It also rocked because it used cheap in season vegetables from the marché.  It rocked because it took like no time... and then we had an awesome meal.

As always, it's for two people..

What you need:
-1 aubergine, medium sized, cut into 1" or so pieces
-2 courgettes, chopped
-2 tomatoes, cut into quarters
-2 cloves of garlic
-1/2 green pepper chunky cut
-1 onion cut into large chunky slices
-Drizzle of olive oil
-Drizzle of red wine vinegar
-herbes de Provence seasoning
-Salt/pepper

I just tossed all the above into a metal bowl and stuck it into the fridge until I needed to put it in the oven.







Take a nap.

Vaccuum the house.

Do some dishes.

But remember to stick it into a baking dish and bake for 1 hour or so on 200°C.  Gets all gooey and melty, fabulous.

Serve with some protein, my our case I did a black bean purée, sliced pork roast and the ratatouille.

bon appetit!

Recipe: Beef and Shrooms

I don't normally like to write out my recipes, since I normally change our dinner every night and I can never remember what it was I made... however last night was an especially delicious, inexpensive and filling dinner and so I thought I'd share.  The total cost was about 5 euros total for a giant pot.  De-li-ci-e-use.  This recipe is for 2.

Donc.

First off you'll need just a few basic ingredients:

• 450g of beef stew meat (called boeuf bourguinon), cut into tiny morsels and deveined
• Marinate in 2 tablespoons vinaigre de vin rouge and 5 tablespoons l'huile d'olive vièrge and 1/2 cup de l'eau for 3 hours before cooking.
• Rinse and dry well before cooking.
• Shake with 1/2 cup seasoned flour
• 250g mushrooms (champignons de paris) 
• 4 tbs beef stew seasoning mix (my mom sends it, here's a recipe if your not-so-lucky):
• "2 cups Flour
  4 teaspoons Oregano (origan)
  2 tablespoons basil (basilisque)
  4 1/4 tablespoons salt (sel)
  4 1/4 tablespoons black pepper (poivre noire)
  4 1/4 tablespoons Garlic Powder (l'ail sec moulu)
  4 1/4 tablespoons Paprika (piment doux)
  1 teaspoon cayenne powder (poivre de cayenne) you can buy this at Cap épices in the 2ème 2 T Celery Seed
  4 1/4 tablespoons Onion Powder (not available in France, but just use fresh)
  2 tsp. rosemary (romarin)
  Measure all ingredients into a large ziploc bag, shake well." - from trecipes forum
• Salt/Pepper/Bay Leaf (lauriel)
• 1/2 onion, 2 garlic cloves, both minced.

Small list- right? Now onto how to make it:

1. Take the floured meat and sauté in a pot with a couple tablespoons of olive oil.
2. *Déglace* the pan by adding 1/2 cup of water, stirring around to get the sticky bits up.
3. Add 2 cups of water.
4. Add the mushrooms.
5. Add the seasoning.
6. Boil on a low heat for 3 hours, stirring every 30 minutes or so until it thickens and bubbles.
7. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over some patates écrasés:

Easy. Cheap. Delicious.

That's how I roll.

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Advice: Staying Fit in France

I remember it well, my first visit to beautiful France.  I was staying with Bri's family, every night was a culinary adventure... I was content with the pastries in the morning... the afternoon snack with sugary aperitif drinks and chips... the huge dinners with crispy baguettes and limitless cheese.

I was in Lyon, France last summer on a visit.  At the beginning of the summer I weighed in around 127 lbs (my average) and left weighing about 143 lbs.  It was incredible.  In about 2 months I had gained more than 10 lbs.

It happened again... in the winter time.  I had came back to the states, and cut out fats/carbs... whatever.  Dropped down once again to 129 lbs; but came back from the visit another 12 lbs heavier!! What the HECK!?

Is it possible to live in France with it's culinary wonders, and not gain weight?  Well.  Here is 10 tips I've come to discover during my 4 months here..

1. Limit the Fatty Breakfasts:  I like to treat myself on Saturdays.  I'll have that beautiful crispy almond croissant... I'll enjoy it... but only once a week.  I don't stop off at the Patisserie and buy chocolately delights during the week.  I savor it- and it really makes me anticipate it.  My normal breakfast is a small bowl of oatmeal and a piece of whole wheat toast with butter/jam.
2. Take advantage of Velo'v:  We live in a city in which public transport is rampant, but the Velo'v system is so superior.  Take advantage and buy a week's pass, bike around the city.  Bike through the park.
3. Visit a Marché:  Buy your veggies and fruits from the marché!  Remember that here the prices are 50% lower than in the States, so take advantage.  You don't have to shop at Lidl or Marché U for everything.  I do Monday super market for the necessities, and then Tuesday marché for my fruits/veggies.  I just recently bought 5kg of fruits/vegetables for €12.  You cannot beat that.
4. Plan the Dinners:  I sit down on Sunday, when everything in France is closed... and I make a list.  I figure out what I plan to make.  I figure out what ingredients I have/don't have.  In these plans I always ensure there's a vegetable that isn't the potato.
5. Eat Lunch:  People have told me they skip lunch.. I say don't.  Even if you snack on an apple at 3 pm, eat something.  It keeps the metabolism working until dinner... and when we sleep our metabolism tends to slow, so if we incorporate dinner, we'll be less hungry during dinner.
6. Alcohol.. Oh Alcohol:  Drinking is so part of the French culture it's forgotten that sugary drinks and beers are packed with calories and carbohydrates.  Limit the drinking.  Maximize the water.  I drink one glass of red wine a night (good for you), if you are at a party, try choosing the clear liquids sans soda or juice.  A vodka on ice.  White wine.
7. The Bread:  France and bread are inseparable, like lovers that have known eachother too long.  The habit of having a daily bread is normal.. but limit yourself.  Bread tends to be a tummy filler during a meal, but it's better to use it to compliment the meal... not gorge yourself.
8. The Pyramid:  You know, 5-7 veggies, all that bit.  Maximize the use of lean proteins (veal, fish, turkey, chicken, eggs) and minimize the use of fatty proteins (bacon, steak, pork other than the loin).  Cheese in France is good for you, but heavy in fat... just be aware.
9. Apple Cider Vinegar:  This is a vinegar made from apples... in it's organic form it has a weird swimmy thing in the bottle... about 2-3 tablespoons of this in a tall glass of water (you drink it) is a great way to reduce water-weight and help keep the system in check.  I drink first thing in the morning, before my coffee or breakfast.  If I get a craving in the middle of the day, I drink it before lunch.
10. Keep Hydrated:  As always, drink lots of water.  I carry around a bottle and try to promise myself to finish two of them a day.  It's hard in a country where wine dominates the meals and coffee breaks are rampant... but remember, restauarants are required by LAW to provide water when asked... for free.

Well, all the best of luck.. it's absolutely normal to gain weight initially when moving to France.  Our bodies in the U.S. are used to high-sugar, high-fat diets.  In France it's a different way of eating.. so it adjusts.  The 10 above tips have helped me lose about 2 kilos (4.4 lbs) since September... it's a slow process, of course, but it's better than packing on 12 lbs in 2 months!!

A Bientôt..

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French Food Prices versus United States..

Yesterday was an adventure all alone..  Usually Bri escorts me around Lyon, normally because of the last time I wandered off alone (meaning: I was heading towards Guillotière and this punk around my age started coming into my personal space and talking to me, hitting on me, EVEN THOUGH I had my earphones on) it really scared the shit out of me.

But, I was in the position where I really needed to run some errands, and he really needed to work on his mèmoire, besides, he can't hold my hand all the time.

So. Off I went, big girl panties on, Velo'v card securely packed in my backpack, earbuds in ears, hard American rock rattling my brain and off I headed.


First stop was BNP Paribas because they are reciprical with my home bank, thus no charges, no fees to pull out cash.



I p0wned that machine.  *beep beep beep*, money came out,

I shoved it into my wallet and off I sped to the boulangerie down the street.


Sometimes I am truly amazed by the bread prices in France.  I scored a baguette (for Mme Lebegue downstairs) and a banette (a crispy baguette-y bread with what I like to think of as "seuss toe" ends) for only 1.70 €.


Even in dollars, that's like... $2.14, so like a buck a baguette.

It's because everyone eats bread, every day, and because of that the bread is baked fresh, every day, so because of that and the lack of preservatives, it goes bad, every day, thus people end up buying a fresh new baguette, every day.

French weight loss is more than the "french paradox", we walk everywhere to get the meal on our plate; so we really earn our dinner.

Moving on.

Another joy of mine is the "Bail Distribution" across the street which is a "producer's market". 

The small local company buys all this beautiful produce from farms in the surrounding area.

After they sell it in their little shop.  Unfortunately, there are only two of these, and even more, they are really outside of the inner city.  We had luck in this small apartment, it's across the street.

An example of some amazing prices would be the following photo, I'll tell you how much just what's in the picture cost from the market...

Alright, so above we have some produce that's recognizable- green pepper, about 1/2 pound of mushrooms, tomatoes, beautiful ripe peaches, eggplant, piment and some pears... I also got two lovely bunches of fresh herbs, basil and cilantro.

In Oregon, these products would break down like this (using Safeway's prices):

1 Green Pepper - $1.00 (each)
1/2 pound Mushrooms - $2.49
1 pound peaches - $1.99
1 pound tomatoes - $2.18
1 eggplant - $1.52
1 pound pears - $1.59
1 bunch basil - $2.00
1 bunch cilantro - $1.89
1 head garlic - $.90
2 onions - $1.50
GRAND TOTAL OF:  $17.06

Now let's compare to my producer's market, direct from the receipt:

1 Green Pepper - €0.49
1/2 pound Mushrooms - €0.89
1 pound peaches - €1.21
1 pound tomatoes - €0.90
1 eggplant - €0.57
1 pound pears - €0.88
1 bunch basil - €0.60
1 bunch cilantro - €0.60
1 head garlic - €0.61
2 onions - €0.31
GRAND TOTAL OF:  €7.06 and in dollars --> $8.97

Wow.  Well, just to exaggerate the difference, let's look at that visually:

Knowing that, you can see in the U.S., in Oregon, I was paying almost double for the same produce- except here it's naturally organic and grown locally.

Worse is for example, eggs, milk and simple things like that.

Let's look at a baguette from St. Honoré in Portland, they sell their "baguettes" for $2.25 each baguette, which is around €1.78 here... our baguettes, GOOD quality are only about €0.70 to €0.90 centimes, or about $1.00.  Again that's a 50% mark up.

Eggs are a biggin' for me because I hate low quality caged eggs.  I mean when you crack them open and the yolk is so bright it's almost glowing.  A good quality organic egg is a deep yellow, and tastes amazing. The photo on the left is from the internet. Note the left is store bought, bright yellow = bad condition, the right, deep yellow = good conditions

You can by 6 vegetarian fed, free range eggs for about $1.32.  Safeway's mark, "O: Organics" sells a box of 12 for $4.39, which is $2.19 for 6; again almost 50% more.

Milk is especially interesting to me.  Here in France, all of our milk is pasteurized and packaged to be able to be outside of the fridge.  In the U.S. it has to constantly be refridgerated, and actually, the taste sucks.

Our milk looks like this --->

Comes in 1 liter containers, sells for about €1.08 per liter, which is like 1/4 of a gallon... so about $5.00 a gallon. It seems expensive, but in reality the milk can last longer and doesn't expire as quickly, and it organic and produced locally.


One gallon of Horizon Organic milk runs for about $6.39... are you seeing the difference here?

Worse, foods like cheetoes and terribly over processed frozen foods sell for around $1.05...

How is that possible that a green pepper is the same price as a budget gourmet??

All-in-All, it's something I'm going to sit on for awhile.

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Two Months... déjà?!

It's been awhile since I wrote because life in Europe picked up.  I went with the flocks of French who vacation in August and visited a beautiful little town near the coast in Spain called, "Alcossebre".
I tried to do a bit of research about Spain and especially about Alcoceber before I got into the car with my French family.  Unfortunately, Alcoceber was simply a small fishing village that seems to have been caught up in tourists from Britain and France.  The culture in Spain, however, is one that is absolutely incredible.

To begin, in France it is common for people to vacation in either July or August.  The typical resort or escape is to the South, whether it be the South in Provence and Marseilles, or South in Spain.  French people drive the distance, and during this trip I was able to learn a new word: Bouchon. Traffic.

Traffic in route to a travel location is the most horrid experience.  We were lucky to leave on a Friday and cut about 4 hours of the bouchon on the way there.

Once in Spain, there are several cultural differences.. I'll try to summarize what I liked the best:

Family Style Eating
If you order a salad, it doesn't come on individual plates.  The salad is placed in the center of the table, everyone has forks ready and you dig in.  This experience was very amusing considering our salad went flying... to our laps, our tablecloths, sometimes to our mouths.  Another way to share food at a table in Spain is by tapas. Tapas is a variety of smaller dishes, ranging in prices from 4-6 € that usually consists of fried or steamed seafood, potatoes smothered in a rich cream sauce and others.  One takes their forks and eats where they wish, with a nice refreshing beer or sangria on the side.

Late Dinners
A true Spanish person would not show up to a restaurant to eat before 10.  It was very usual for us to eat early in the morning and then snack in the afternoon, and then gorge around 10 or 11.  Much of this, I assume, is due to the heavy heat around Spain.  People close shops around 2pm, which is considered the 'hora di siesta'... nap time.  Just like big babies, we all lumber into the safety of our shaded homes, lay down or relax, maybe read, patient for the sun to become less harsh.


The Sea
The sea in Spain along the coast is the most beautiful and calm body of water I have seen.  Warmed by the sun, salty and swarming with sea critters that are unharmful to humans.  I got the chance to fish watch with some big goggles... lots of little Nemos swimming around nibbling on my toes.


Spanish Cuisine
As Anthony Bourdain said, "Spain is a culinary jackpot, the best place in the Western world to eat."

Well, he is not wrong, by any means.  From breakfast to dinners, Spain has this knack to stuff you with amazingly simple, well spiced dishes that make you keep eating until you are about to explode.  Let me elaborate.

Paella
Literally a saffron infused rice concoction made in giant metal paella pans.  Stuffed with vegetables, meat, seafood- depending on the variety.  Swimming with crustaceans and fresh sea fish... made on command as you order and incredibly sensuous.  The one in the picture is a 'Paella di Marisco", paella of the sea.  Full of shrimp, mussels, langoustine, octopus and squid.  Flavored with seafood broth which only intensifies the organic structure of the seafood paella- incredible.  I could eat this for breakfast and dinner... yummm...

Arroz Negro
Similar to Paella, except made with squid ink.  I got the ability to try this at a restaurant with a 15 € menu, everything included and drinks.  This was my entrée...  The big glop of white goo is actually something called "ali y oli", or aioli.  It was so rich with flavor.  The squid ink actually adds this dynamism to the dish that makes you feel like you are really enjoying the squid.

Fresh Fish Galore
Many of the dishes I ate while there were fresh seafood dishes, the kind where it was probably alive before it was killed and eaten- as you order.  Follow the images below to read what I ate.

Salt Cod Filet with Aioli

Cuttlefish, a big-headed version of squid.
 

Buttery Shrimp with Baby Eels

Sole Fish with Langoustine Reduction

Fresh Mussels with my French "Brother"

Shrimp and Salt Cod, Tomato based sauce

Eating at Home: Charcuteries, Salads
Sometimes we'd stay in and eat some local produce and charcuteries.  Spain is the professional of pork charcuterie- and if you are a vegetarian, you're not going to experience the glory that is encased meats.  We ate a range of products from chorizo with the slight spicy bite, to the gooey meat called, "sobrossada".  Often served with tomato rubbed toast, garlic, queso and a lovely fresh salad.

Pan con Tomate y Ali y Oli

Fresh Salad

Local Produce: Tomatoes, Onions

Charcuteries galore.. ham, chorizo, sobrassada, sausage, and a cool rosado wine

It was a vacation I will never forget; I gained a couple of pounds to enjoy and a few shades of tan.  Now I'm back in Lyon and the life here begins again.

Which reminds me.. I need to buy a baguette for dinner!

Bri and I have decided to try to lose some weight, and let me say it is a complete pain in the butt to NOT eat the delicious fatty foods.  But I figure, since I'll be here for a long stretch, it's better to be in good shape and enjoy the food, than overweight enjoying the food.  Our daily regime is to literally not use any fats whatsoever- no cheeses, no butters.  We eat lean meats, healthy cereal for breakfast, green tea... and I incorporate an apple cider vinegar drink.

So far we've eaten:
-pork filets with spinach
-yellow thai curry with turkey and green vegetables (no potatoes)
-turkey mushroom stirfry with side of cooked veggies

Every night is a challenge, but one that is easily accessible in France.  Produce here is a bit cheaper than in the states, and much more organic so it is much easier to eat a range of fresh vegetables every day.

No booze.
No fats.
No potatoes.
No pasta.
Little bread.
Whole grains.
Leafy greens (every day).

Why did I agree to do this where there are so many cheeses and pastries in FRANCE?!?!?!  So sad.