Update: What is Going On?

I was clicking through my old posts, reminiscing and smiling in that way you do when you have a warm memory and I realized- it had been months since I had written! It's time for an update and briefing on the direction of this fabulous 3 year project:

As of October 22nd, 2013, I repatriated back to Portland, Oregon. This was of course a decision that was made years ago when I originally packed my 2 suitcases and jetsetted to France. 3 years later, as I packed up my life of 3 years in France, I realized that I had truly changed as a person.

3 years ago, I was freaked out and worried about not being able to wander around in beat-up plastic flip flops. 3 years later, I couldn't even imagine owning  a pair, even if every single person in Portland has a pair they proudly flop around in.

The use of a knife during dinner, the American jokes, the mis-understandings in English, bar scene, the weird dating scene...

So the project is continuing but I will be treating a topic that is often left on the back burner and truly could prove of use- the Backwards Culture Shock.

As noted, most international story blogs end with the person moving home... but we all know, especially if you have lived overseas, that this is not necessarily possible. There are constantly little things that make you think of your other culture, the one you learned to fit and adjust into.

How can you handle the backwards culture shock?

Specifically, how can you continue to live French while being in America?

These topics and more will be developed over the period of my repatriating experience... especially since in the 3+ years I've been away, Portland has become a foreign city in it's own right.

The Little Things...

Recently I was just about to cross the street, it was around 9pm in the evening and Bri and I had ordered Chinese takeout.  We stepped onto the street and noticed something very odd, the guy in front of us had whipped out his zizi and was taking a whizz, in plain public, on the crosswalk.

Now, I've seem some oddities in my life abroad, but this is probably a moment that took the cake.  To have the balls (excuse the pun) to pee in public, and I mean, show the wares to everyone and everything...

It got me thinking... There have been many moments that I've said, that would never happen in the states. And thus, this blog is going to be dedicated to those little things that are just cultural.

Homeless Dudes and Cheap Wine
I remember back in the states, many of the Homeless people had cans of cheap PBR or even whisky or vodka.  In France, these homeless, while 10x stinkier than in the states, are also a bit classier.  I happen to observe the homeless around the city, instead of avoiding, and most of them tend to have a bottle of wine in their hands.  How very French for the homeless people to get exceedingly drunk on a bottle of wine.  Of course, glasses are not needed.

Teaching Kids to Pee on Walls
I actually wrote this down in my journal once, scribbled quickly as if I was shocked.  Due to a lack of public, clean toilets, many people end up peeing in public (although rarely in cross-walks), and thus arrives the "teaching your child to pee in front of everyone on this very public wall" moment.  The kid was maybe, 5 years old, mom huddled over showing him how to do his business.

The Soft Porn of Cheese
I watch a lot of French television, it tends to help me keep up my comprehension, plus dating a Senator's assistant means lots and lots of political news pundits.  I always prepare myself mentally when the commercials come on, notably the cheese commercials.  They always start the same, soft beating music lulling and enticing the audience to watch what's happening... suddently a hand reaches over to a cheese, Roquefort, Caprice de Dieu, St. Agur, slices a piece off and takes a bite.  The minute the presumabely French person bites into the cheese, suddenly they are transported to a paradise... rain falls, and it seems as though they love it so much they could marry it.  If you don't believe me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YEmgb7ZCWE

Seriously, he grips the wood as though eating St. Agur provides such an immense pleasure... total soft porn.

I think I could make a whole separate post on just marketing strategies in France.

Get In Line at 6pm For Baguettes
Without fail, I receive a text every night before I leave work from Bri, "Do we hav bread?" because he knows I forget.  So as I haul my bag of work home, I end up in like at 6:20pm with all the other French after-work crowd.  As addictive as cigarettes, the baguettes is an absolute requirement in order to eat any French meal.  So there is always an insane line of at least 10 people, each one ordering the same or a variation,

Une baguette s'il vous plaît,
Une banette s'il vous plaît....


The line seems enormous, but it passes quickly and we all retreat home with a long and crispy baguette under our arms.

My Dog Poops EVERWHERE
I notice it more in Paris than I did in Lyon, but people let their dogs squat anywhere and let it loose, thus resulting in a sort of Indiana Jones commute to work.  I feel like I'm avoiding piles of the stuff every day, luckily I always was the type to watch my feet... so mess avoided! I have yet to step in a pile of crap (knock on wood).

More to come...

Life in the 15th

The last day in any city tends to be a bittersweet experience.  I'm no stranger to saying good bye as I've lived in several different cities.  I lived in Forks until I was 14 years old, packed bags and moved to Portland, moved all around the city and then jet-setted at 23 to France.

Before Bri + I were a couple, we were just party-buddies in Portland

I was looking through photos and realized that in the 3 years Bri and I have been together we've visted a pretty decent list of place, always with a smile and a back-pack.

One of our backpacking trips

• 2009
• Roadtrip from Portland to New York
• New Orleans, LA
• Savannah, GA
• Washington DC
• Maryland
• New York
• Lyon (first time)
• 2010
• MOVE to Lyon
• Venice
• Paris
• Barcelona
• 2011
• MOVE to Paris

Today is our third year anniversary, and now we start a new life once again in a new city.  We're going to Le Lutin dans le Jardin, a restaurant that has a fabulous discount through 'La Fourchette' (21€ instead of 42€).

This is about 1 year after we got together

View from down our street

Our new life means a new apartment of course, and one that is about 35m2 (half that of the last apartment in Lyon) and 1100€ a month.  Ridiculously expensive. Our apartment is in the 15th in Paris, a quiet neighborhood outside of the bustle of life, towards the south end of the city..

Suprisingly, despite the 30 minute crowded metro rides, I feel suprisingly calm in this city.  It is very similar to life in Lyon, but much much larger.  I was warned before moving about the gens impolis but so far I've only came across kind and gentle people.

I was asked 3 times if I needed help dragging my giant suitcase up the metro steps (including a woman!), I was caught by a nice businessman when I was about to fall over trying to elbow out of my metro stop.

Actually so far, Parisiens are quite pleasant outside of rush-hour.  During rush-hours (9am-10am, 12pm-1pm and after 5pm) they tend to be pushy, but you kinda have to be in order to get INTO the metro.

In the area I live I am 5 minutes away from buses, a step away from a boulangerie, boucheries (3 of them), fruit stands, grocery stores, 2 métro lines... in fact I am even better situated than my first apartment in the center of Lyon.

The air feels much drier in Paris, and my contacts feel polluted after half a day wandering around.  I carry hand sanitizer for after my metro rides, and wash my face as soon as I get home.

There are differences, but they are differences that I can share with my blog, things to discover, things to report about.

So, I'm off for a "Gastronomique Expérience" and get ready for some experiences!

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My Night in China

I can count the days on my fingers before I train it to Paris, and it is passing by quickly.  As Bri isn't here, I'm been busying myself with packing suitcases for Paris (we're doing a move via TGV, more to come later), eating with girlfriends and partying.

Partying?

Let me rephrase that, utterly destroying my French Master's friends with bottles upon bottles of alcohol.

How much alcohol?

About this much.. for those who need a count, that's about 8 bottles of wine, plus a boxed wine (3 bottles), two full bottles of liquer, an 1/8 of a bottle of Absinthe... plus later into cleaning I uncovered 4 more bottles of wine.

Roughly, 11,25 liters of 12% alcohol, and about 2 liters of hard alcohol.  For about 16 people... so.. a lot.

This was the end to a very long week, one event at the Chamber of Commerce in Paris, one morning of terrible illness and then a train at 6am the next day.

All in all I was thrilled when my good Chinese friend, Qingyun, invited me for a free Chinese dinner at some of her close friends.  

The minute we walked into the restaurant, I could see it was clean and family oriented.  Bisous passed around, Qingyun began rapid fire Mandarin with the chef and then her herself pointed to a giant bucket of dinosaur-looking body parts.

"We are going to eat chicken feet tonight!" I smiled, I wasn't shocked, this is exactly what I wanted to eat. I had heard about for years from my Sister, and I was thrilled to eat with the family and be a part of the experience.

The chef's jacket was a little too large.

The kitchen was covered with the dense smells of spices, I noted around me, ginger, garlic, star anise, cinnamon, salt, pepper, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, soy sauce...  The chef expertly used his giant spoon to eyeball out the quantities and toss into his wok that he tossed around as though it weighed nothing.  A giant chef's knife laid on the chopping board, which he's used to chop the toes off the chicken feet, mince up the vegetables.

I watched with intrigue as I realized this dinner wasn't a little dinner, they had made about 5 different dishes.  2 dishes were crab based, one short ribs, one chicken feet, another with mussels, fresh baby peas.  Qingyun jumped on the wok and began doing the same, I sat back afraid to touch anything, but observing nonetheless.

"You like spicy?" She smiled at me, "Most white people don't like too spicy, the French like sweet or bland..." I nodded, of course I loved spicy.  I used to eat jalapenos on my eggs for breakfast!

Finally the meal was coming together, the chef adding the finishing touches, a dash of salt, a ladle full of sauce:

Adding the sauce

Presenting the Crab Dish

I sat at the table, set before me a completely luxurous meal...

Two types of crab, (the mussels and feet came after)

I ate SO MUCH!

So.

Story is, if you wanna have some good Chinese, for not too expensive either A. Find a Chinese friend, or B. Go to Seng Heng in Lyon 3ème: http://www.webcity.fr/seng-heng-lyon/lieu

The owners are incredibly nice, patient and even though they've tried to branch out to Japanese specialities, try to ask for the typical Chinese dishes; dumplings.. Very high quality, clean kitchen and gentille staff.

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First Discoveries in Paris (Like as a 'habitant' et not 'tourist')

Well, it's been a long long weekend... well okay it's technically Wednesday today, but I feel like I have been non-stop since I hopped the train to Paris on Friday morning.

The goal?  Well first off to meet with the American Chamber of Commerce, secondly to apartment hunt for the big move in February.  As soon as I stepped off the train I realized the potential in Paris.. inspiration for my blog! There were so many things that I had to hunt for online, so many unanswered questions... I realized that this move is not only the next step in my life, but the next step to network, help others, and grow!

For example.. Consignes.  Had no idea what the word meant, but I realized that is was totally a necessary word when I decided to not lug my luggage around Paris.

The biggest differences between Lyon and Paris, during my short little pre-visit:

1. Sheer size equation.  1 step in Lyon = 5 steps in Paris.  See, when I got around to analysing the map, and trying to figure out the RATP system, I figured, hey, that's not so far... I'll just walk it (like I do in Lyon).  WRONG.  I ended up walking... walking... walking... seriously.  My butt hurt when I hopped the 6:30 train back to Lyon on Monday morning.
2. Mulitude of foreign shops.  I didn't realize how many shops were in Paris until I stepped out of the métro and saw everything I've been craving:  Chinese Traiteur shops, indian take-away, foreign grocery marts.  I discovered Rue St Anne... Needless to say for a foreign person it's literally a haven.  In Lyon we are limited to Asiatique shops in Guillotière, which my Chinese friend tells me is ran by Cambodians, sushi shops spattered about, which my Japanese friends tell me is ran by Chinese.
3. Internationals. Everywhere. On the métro, I heard all walks of life- Russian, American, British... Paris is a hub for international expatriates.
4. Métro trajet.  Normally the trajet in Lyon is about a 2 minute ride between stops, about 1 km.  In paris the métro hops about 3 km and takes about 4 minutes.  I literally spent like 40% of my time transferring in and out of métros.

And in my little discoveries that I made, in just three days, I realized how much I could teach to other expatriates going to either Paris OR Lyon.  Seriously!

Another reason I went to Paris was to sign the apartment contract for the apartment Bri lovingly hunted.  I was freaked out to sign for a place I never saw, but amazingly it went well... and already has a histoire.

The Chilean Apartment Owner

It was Saturday, 3PM, Bri took me out on our new streets to discover the beginnings of our new neighborhood and sign the apartment papers.  15 minutes into our walk, I was already beginning to feel a bit tired, but I pressed on, matching the pace with the speed-walking heel-wearing girls zipping past me.  Turn.  Straight.  Left.  Straight.  "Are we there yet?" I whined, getting exceedinly irritable as I was famished, thirsty and stressed to sign an apartment I'd never seen.  We turned a corner, and suddenly we were on a gastronome's dream even Cyrnosky probably turned in his grave.  I counted as we headed towards our apartment.  2 boucheries, 2 boulangeries, fromagerie, poissonnerie, patisserie... it was endless.  Fruiterie, floriste.  Wine shop.  All within a 5 minute walk from my new apartment.  Another corner, "See!", he pointed towards a badly designed building, upon entry smelled of cigars and perhaps slight urine-y?

I kept an open mind and headed up the stairs to the 2nd floor, as we greeted the owner I noticed the accent.  Chilean.  He introduced me to his wife, Claire, French, and started going off about the work he was doing, how it was important the apartment looked nice, how excited he was... I was left with Claire and she began to talk to me in perfect accented English.

"So, you come from America?  I once lived in San Francisco, I did an exchange there many years ago..." she trailed off glancing at me curiously, I took this as my cue, "Well, actually yes!  I come from Portland.. although I haven't been back in almost 2 years.  I love Paris so far.. lovely city really..."

Not sure how, but apparently that last phrase opened the I'll tell you all the personal gritty details about my family and my Chilean husband.  Off she went!  Husband died when she was 40, moved to Paris to nurse a broken heart, two young girls, met her Chilean lover who was also going through a divorce and had a child.  Odd family sort of stuck together through the years.  Husband's son is a director.. you know.. little projects... although he was married to an American.  Awful girl.  From New York.  Spoiled, father very protective.  She wanted to be a designer.. these closets were picked by her actually.  Oh you didn't know?  They lived here for 12 years together.  Now I think they are divorcing, she is back in New York and he's with a Romanian girl.

Well.  I didn't really have a story to match that, and thankfully the boys returned from business talks before I had to.

But.. it felt like an odd international family, and I actually liked the couple... a lot.  Even the Chilean said,

"Vous voyez?  Nous sommes une famille des internationaux.  Américaine, Chiléan, Français, Romaine.. internationaux!"

We arrived at 3:15pm and we ended up signing and leaving around 5:15pm.

Here are some photos of the new place:

Our Terrace..

The New York 'Closet' / Main Room

Main entry 

My kitchen.. only downside is the outdated appliances

Finally a BIGGER bath tub!

Even though the front of OURS is ugly.. the view we have is quite nice

Dinner the night after signing... 'Cantine des Tontons', and a giant BOAR head.

10 Commandments of Living in France

1. Thou shall eat carbs:
1. Baguette
2. Croissants
3. Pain au Chocolat
4. Cookies
5. Toast
6. Biscottes...
2. Thou shalt say "Bonjour" and "Au revoir" every time thou enter and leave a commercant
3. Thou shalt wash thy clothes and dry thy clothes during a period of 3 days, or more.
4. Thou shalt wear high heels,
5. Thou shalt NOT in ANY circumstance wander around in hiking boots and mis matched knee high socks*
6. Thou shalt look where thy walkest or else face the wrath of dog poop
7. Thou shalt bike meniacally and ring thy bell over, and over, and over.....
1. Thou shalt do the same if driving
8. If there is bread, thou shalt eat cheese, if there is cheese thou shalt demand for more bread
9. If thou feelst full, thou shalt eat two more courses, AND digestif.. to induce a crise de foie
10. Thou shalt kiss the cheeks of thy neighbors, once on each side, upon arrival and departure.

*Yes I've done this.

Midnight in Lyon..

It's been one year and a half that I've lived in Lyon, and I realized recently that I've never discovered or lived in Lyon alone!

Bri is in Paris starting his new job and apartment hunting, I'm stuck in Lyon for my Master's program until the beginning of February... and so yesterday I decided to go and venture around my city.

I'd never been to the Musée Gadagne since I moved to Lyon, but I mean a free entrance to a museum for a Lyon Gastronomie display?  I couldn't resist.  I packed a compote and a bottle of water, my journal and my walking boots; off I was on my very own to a Lyonnais museum!

Les Toques Blanches de Lyon (in my garden!)

It was lovely to walk through the city at my own pace, in silence, listening to the people around me.  It was in the actual exhibit that I was enamoured, posters of food, photos of the famous Cuisiniers and Cuisinières, I looked at every single detailed menu, watched every black and white video.  The exhibit is not that impressive, in regards to actual 'gastronomy', but there were a few things I picked up on and tucked away in my journal:

When visiting the musée Gadagne, I can almost imagine myself with the famous Gourmands of Lyon.  A sort of "Midnight in Lyon", instead of the 'high time' with artists and painters in Paris, it is a Golden Age of eating and gourmandises.  Lyon was for foodies what Paris was for artists... while artists and writers were indulging in social abnormalities, the foodies were just doing what they do best... eating!

Even though Julia Child mentions that Paris was an amazing culinary hot-spot, even the great Curnosky wrote, Lyon est la capitale mondiale de gastronomie.  Can't argue with the Prince of Gourmand!

La Mère Brazier

I was amazed at the culinary freedom of the 1920's and 1930's and longed to jetset back in time to sit at a table with Mère Brazier, Mère Fillioux and Curnosky...

What's more incredible is the feminism so prevalent in this era- why do I say this?  Because women truly were the creators of the Lyon Gastronomy!  I stared at the photos, imagining the times... there was respect to these women because they could cook.  These women, the lost generation of the culinary world in Lyon were the epitomy of feminism.  Enormous amounts of respect were doted upon their culinary confections, and they remain important and engrained in Lyon history!

So potentially in France... if you can cook you can earn respect?

But what is up with this whole Lyon cuisine?  What was amazing was the distinctive contrast between the Bourgeois dishes (Brasserie Georges, etc) and the typical Bouchon (la Mère Jean) also known as La Cuisine Guignolesque which was for the hard workers.  One of the videos in the museum shows a report wandering around and asking locals:

Reporter:  Pensez-vous d'être un gourmand?

Man 1: Tout à fait que oui, nous sommes des plus grandes gourmands ici à Lyon... on adore les choses bonnes à manger, les cochonnailles, la viande... du vin.. du fromage...

Report: (Same question)

Older Woman: Mais oui!  Je suis une gourmande.. j'adore à manger!

I am not a personal fan of Bocuse... who has taken the idea of being a Foodie and capitalised it until it's just a bunch of carbon-copy restaurants with little or no creativity.  I love the simple, local, bouchons... with a pot du vins and a tender quenelle.

Les Toques Blanches.. les mères de Lyon.. Oh la la!

This move is going to be tough.

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House Hunter's International: Video!

So, I have a fabulous Cousin in California who was able to figure out the DVr to Internet thing and, guess what... The video from my House Hunter's International experience is now online!!

Now all those in Europe without access to HGTV can see who I am exactly.

A warning, the video portrays me as a bit "catty"; in fact at times I seem like an outright Princess- they decided to cut it in that way and take out the parts where I seemed nice... at least that's what I tell myself.

Any ways, in watching myself and feedback... I've considered starting a video blog from the beginning of February (my move to Paris).  Internet is such a fabulous thing, I feel like I can give advice better via a visual process.

Enjoy!  (The video takes a few minutes to load)

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/kmGlwRnh7IR7NN2FaWu

2011: Récapulatif (Recap)

Tomorrow evening will mark the end to another year in France, but not just the end of 'another year', but the beginning of a new year.  It feels so distant the day I grabbed my two suitcases and jetted across the Atlantic on a warm June day, the tears that sprung up as I kissed my parents, and my American life, goodbye.

Looking back at 2010 posts, I realized that 2011 was not only the year I learned to adjust to the culture... but the year that I really found my balance and my language ability.  When I first came to France I could barely put a proper sentence together, now I am completing a French business Master's degree, in French, with an average of 13/20 (basically a B).  There have been bad times, good times, in between times... but I have more of a sense of nostalgia as I wave goodbye to 2011 because it marks the end of my séjour in Lyon and the beginning of my life in Paris.

I never had plans to pack up house for Paris, as I complain and groan I imagine the millions of Americans who dream to live in Paris... and yes it is exciting- but I love my life in Lyon. All the discoveries that I have made, the maps I have put together to survive, the 'favorites' I have found.

It marks also the beginning of my 'adult hood', my student life is wrapping up nicely and the next steps are to find a big girl job (put lovely by my good Brit friend Katie) and grow up.

So what happened memorable in 2011?

I believe the best way to remember is to break it down...

January

• Learned the French emergency number by heart... as Bri passed out face first at 3AM in the morning from a fever, and I freaked out.  Sad to say I grabbed the phone and put it to his face crying, "What's the number!! I can't explain what happened to you!!" Which is when I promised myself to become fluent. I can't rely on Bri for everything.

February

• Got hired for an Internship!

March

• So uneventful I ended up writing about Instant Coffee and how horrible it is.

April

• Learned the appropriate way to write a Letter of Motivation

May

• Worked, another completely uneventful month

June

• Discovered the true difference between our 'respect the elder' culture and the 'dog eat dog' culture of France

July

• Went to my first concert in Lyon, even better in an ancient Roman amphithéâtre!
• First visit to a gynecologist- yikes
• First hair cut in France

August

• Vacation to Barcelona with the French Fam... in-laws will always be in-laws in any culture

September

• Celebrated my 24th birthday with my Mom at my side, unlimited frog legs and a beautiful Birthday cake

October

• Started my French international business management Master, learned that the education system is completely different than in America

November

• Went to my first French-French party by myself, got totally tipsy but made it back home in time for the last métro.

December

• Bri accepted for position at the Senate, realization I'll be moving in TWO months to Paris.
• +2 kilos

Now the question is.... did I complete my 2011 to do list?  Let's see... here's from my list in the beginning of the year, things with the cross out are complete.. of course I added some commentary.

1. Lose the 10 lbs I probably gained during French Christmas   Did this, but gained it back Christmas 2011
2. Start walking fast..  x Sort of necessary when living in France
3. Start jogging.. Okay.. NO....
4. Start running..  Definitely NO!
5. Try to do some yoga videos a few times a week  Haha, It's amazing what we aspire to do... NO
6. Learn a complicated French recipe  Totally made Julia Child's Boeuf Bourguignon AND mastered pâte à choux!
7. Invite a group of 5 to the apartment for dinner  Totally made an awesome pork roast, in my 'microwave'!
8. Try to buy veggies at marché as much as possible..  Most every weekend we wandered out..
9. Going with #8, try to get up at normal hours   Except during vacations...
10. Pay closer attention to my friends  Made some new onces, tended to the old ones.. SUCCESS!
11. Do a good job for my new job  Did fabulously, then got hired in another position.
12. Try to keep apartment in suitable condition for living  Laundry regularily, dinner every night..
13. Go on a Beaujolais tour  Ooops... eh... NO!
14. Try to go for brisk evening walk after dinner with Brian each night  No, but it's Bri's fault not my own!
15. Get into a Master's program and get visa renewed  CHECK!
16. Take more pictures to share with family  Take more pictures? Yes.  Share with family? No.
17. Replace the toilet paper when it runs out- I never do.  Still don't.
18. Try to pay the basics and then.. pay off my credit cards  Don't use credit cards any more.. thanks for helping out mom!
19. Learn a new dance  Sure... the kitchen dance..!
20. Get into one of those fancy French clubs  Still to be done...
21. Plan something epic for our 2 year anniv'  We ate frogs, that is epic.
22. Try some new French cheese  I regretted it.
23. Totally shop at the marchés, veggie market, boucheries, boulangeries and fromageries... no more American shopping!  Although sometimes I am a bit lazy...
24. Call my brother back in the States at least 4-5 times a week  Eek.. eh....
25. Study my French more often and make an effort to speak 'en Français' with Bri  Moitié/Moitié!
26. Make more unique meals  I'd say!
27. Write all the books that I've been keeping in my head  Okay... so.. I am a procrastinator..
28. Write more advice columns and get back on board with the daily bloggin'!  Hmmm Daily????

Okay so 18/28 complete?  Not too shabby.. tomorrow I'll bring out my 2012 list.  It will be énorme.

Man 2012 is freakin' me out.. but I only see good things (minus the change from 700 sq ft to 350 sq ft for double the price...)

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Mastering the Art of the French Master's Degree

First off, I should probably explain what is going on at the moment and why I disappeared for about a month.

I've been getting many helpful comments and nice things being said about me but I barely have had a moment to log on and to even say THANKS!

September of this year I officially started a Master's degree in International Business Management in Lyon.  In order to create more of a challenge I decided, given the choice between two programs, to go with the program entirely in French.  Even better I decided to pick the intensive Master 2 Professional option which meant about 32 hours of classes a week.  Oh, let's just add that I was working, as well, around 18.5 hours a week at Wallstreet Institute.

You can imagine my typical day, as detailed in my last blog post.

Well, there truly is an art to the French Masters, even an art to studying in France.  It started with the intensity of the courses for me and wounded up in a climatic end of term finals where I about ripped out my hair from stress.

Shall we?

What Happens in Class
After a sleepless night and nightmares where I lost all ability to communicate in French, I arrived in my Master's class with my college-ruled American notebook and a single pen.  As I settled into the uncomfortable plastic seats and nodded around the class, practically whispering, bonjour, I noticed immediately that I was not well prepared.  Three girls glimpsed over my 'school materials' and then pulled out their own lumpy pencil bag, deftly picking out three different colors of pens, a ruler and either white sheets of paper or lined paper that gave me a headache to look at.

I scoffed to myself, what a bunch of overachievers, until I noticed even the laziest looking guy in my class had at least 2 colors and a ruler laid out in front of him.  My throat began to become dry as I suddenly felt like that dumb American foreigner and quickly reached into my bag to see if I had another color of pen.

Before I could find the second color, the teacher came exploding through the door, "Bonjour classe, donc, je suis veille France et donc je ne supporterai pas les ordinateurs, téléphone portables ni les SMS" I sighed quietly as I glanced over to see if I was supposed to start noting or what, she continued, "Et je n'enverrai pas les Power Points donc prennez bien vos notes" Well merde at that one.  I was at least relying on some back support in my American in France learning struggle, but I prepared my hand for the noting battle.

Looking back on my notes for that day I almost feel pity for myself, I had tried to note as fast as possible, but got lost in the dialogue, the questions my colleagues posed, the language itself.  Many of the passages said things like, "Une entreprise ????  donc important de ???" Where I was meant to miraculously fill in the blanks at home and try to get the sense.

I noted as the others used abbreviations, multicolors to change the theme and rulers to create perfectly level lines.  The precision was utterly disgusting but yet somehow exciting at the same time, I find the French people to be, in my opinion, the most apt to OCD in the world.  I also suddenly had an urge to use those weird multi lined bloc notes to organize and create some absolute precision in my writing.

Oh, and, the teacher's do not really want your opinion, even though they ask.  If you have the balls to answer, be prepared to be grilled on the topic until you turn a beet red in frustration and shrivel into your shirt.  They are talking at you, the underling, and you must simply note what they say.

Also, no homework. Everything is based on tests.

So advice for those wanting to pursue a degree in France?

• Let go of the College Ruled paper, embrace the Bloc Notes
• If possible, bring a computer
• If possible, bring a charger
• Don't eat during class, otherwise you will here some rampant mumblings about the American stereotype
• 3 colors of pens
• A ruler for lovely lines
• LABEL LABEL LABEL (otherwise you'll end up like me and freaking out during dead week)
• Buy a classeur to organize your notes
• Ask if the teacher sends the slides

Team Work in France

I am lucky enough the have the experience to be in a class with 85% French people.  The only foreigners are myself, a girl from China, from Cambodia and from Spain.  In a class of 25 people, we are almost forced to work in a team with at least 2 Frenchies.

My first experience in a team was, well, lost in translation.  In the States I was the queen of leadership and team organization, toujours type A personality.  The biggest challenge was suddenly being thrown with 3 Frenchies for 3 hours to create a team presentation and project.

Their version?  Shout, debate and argue until we are exhausted enough to drag ourselves to get a coffee, drag ourselves back and argue once again until we vomit some form of work.  Luckily, I was able to organize the team enough to create an agenda, minimalize the arguing and come home with a freakin' awesome grade for my team.  Oh, if ever curious about grades, I wrote a blog on that: Grading in France, and we received an 18/20, because 20/20 only God can get, and 19/20 only teachers can get so we were 3rd.

Advice?

• Don't be afraid to Be American, make an Agenda and stick to it, even if they follow some random chemins of conversation
• Speak slow and deliberate, even if they are shouting and speaking quickly
• Understand the topic before you try and traite it

Les Partiels aka Final Exams

I got the handle on the note-taking during classes enough to start high-lighting and multi-color pen using to my heart's content.  I, however, was not prepared for the final exams.  As a girl in class warned me, Prépares-toi, j'ai reçu un 3/20 dans un examen l'année dérnière.  I gasped at that revelation and proceeded to memorize, and rememorize the material in order to simply barf it back up during the tests.

With my book size of notes I memorized facts, dates, chemins, charts, graphs, exhaustive explanations on Theories of Economics.  In French.  When the day of the test came it was like this:

1. Read this 20 page case
2. Analyse the case
3. Regurgitate any relevant information on these University marked Sheets
1. IN PEN
2. NEVER IN PENCIL
4. You have 2 hours

Oh my goodness.  By the end of the week and 6 final exams (12 hours of writing in 3 days) my hand was literally cramping, my vision was blurry and I broke down crying on the Friday.

Did it pay off? Sure, the first exam I received back was 13/20, knowing the highest grade was 15.5... so I was not a dummy American who couldn't speak French!

Advice:

• Study constantly throughout the term
• Record classes and relisten to difficult sessions (I relistened to the last two sessions)
• Use black or blue ink, white out for mistakes
• Use scrap paper to write thoughts and nice paper to rewrite
• For a week before the exams restrain from English
• GET SLEEP, staying up all night to study will not guarantee a better grade

So Now What?

Well, now, Wallstreet Institute is done, my last day, sadly, was last week.  I continue my tutoring, hoewever, pulling in an average of 8 students a week on top of classes I am taking.  I write my notes, retype my notes and relisten to classes.  My goals are to get the highest grade on one of the tests during the term, but it's only an over-achiever American hope of mine.

Next step is an Internship.   Oh LORD!

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The Perfect Burger

Don't judge me but sometimes I am a horrible person and crave a juicy burger. Granted, I'll never find a replacement for the typical American burger but I did find a pretty freakin' good version the other day. Bri and I went out hunting for lunch on Friday and I was utterly miserable. My grandfather had died that morning and I wanted to drown my sorrows in a burger- strange? Yes. When sad I either don't eat or I do eat... Lots. When we wandered out, we decided to go by our typical joint: BIEH or best I ever had. Normally restaurants who market themselves in English scare me off... But honestly? I wanted a bacon cheeseburger.

So BIEH located on Rue Merciere, another touristy food place, is my typical go to place. They have milkshakes, Dr.Pepper and an awesome student menu for only 10$. Better to buy a burger in a restaurant than in MacDo in my opinion.

The burgers are thick, often in France a burger is what they call a 'steak haché' which is a thin hammered out ground beef patty flash cooked and served with French fries and not often with a bun.

At BIEH the burgers are served with typically cheddar style cheese, bacon and the squishy dough bun. Sauces on the side, home made French fries- yum.

If not I have heard only good things from Ninkasi, although Bri tells me it's horrible.

Worse comes to worse it's easy to by some steak haché from the boucherie- mine if you wish (Boucherie Centrale) and make it at home. Monoprix has all the delicious go-alongs and hey hen you can stack it.

Although I sure do miss a good Henry's burger or a mass produced Red Robin.

Any other recommendations?

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The French Paradox

There's this thought that goes around called the "French Paradox"... it's this concept that although the French eat higher amounts of cheese, wine, bread and whole fat milk products- they are much healthier than those in the States.  Now, I've been living in Lyon for over a year now.. and can I honestly admit this paradox?  Yes.  Yes I can.

When I first moved to Lyon I was about 64 kgs, or 141 lbs. This was a steady weight gain from first meeting Bri, to visiting Lyon in the winter time.. to not really focusing on getting in shape.  The tipping point was a trip to Spain.. I ended up gaining another kilo (2 lbs) and I was frustrated.. but I didn't change much of how I ate (just no croissants every morning of course).  I was a size 8-10, and I felt unhappy... so I decided to live French and hope for the best!

Bri + Me in Spain, August 2010

The biggest changes happened in regards to movement.  In the States I would constantly drive everywhere, to the gym, to the store... I would never walk.  In September 2010 I moved into my new apartment, on the 4ème étage 'sans ascensor'.  Meaning every day I climb down, I have to climb back up 102 stairs.  Often I go out maybe 2-3x a day, that's like 306 stairs!

Going grocery shopping meant walking 1/2 mile to the store, buying what's needed, hauling it back 1/2 mile and then up the stairs.

The French Paradox relies on several factors:

1. We walk everywhere, and elevators are rarely used.
2. We have a Velo'V system that allows us to bike all over the city,  for example I use this to go to work and back every day.. 1.5 miles each way.. so I bike 3 miles a day
3. The food we eat enables us to purchase more fruits/vegetables, which we eat, regularly
4. Our bread is usually whole grain and made fresh with no preservatives
5. Most our food is non-preservative laden
6. We eat only whole fat, non sugar added dairy products
7. Products rarely have corn syrup
8. We don't eat with salad dressing, only vinaigrette so we get our whole fats in our food as well as a daily dosage of vinegar
9. Often we drink one glass of wine a day
10. Our meals are often a few courses of smaller plates that aides in digestion

Now sometimes I splurge, I'll do patisserie items, or enjoy a lovely Sunday fat rich meal- but I rarely eat Fast Food, restaurants don't do take out and we eat several small meals a day.

Now.  Proof of the paradox?

 

Me testing my Spain bikini (July 2011)

I see the difference, definitely.  I'm now 56 kg, or about 124 lbs and a size 4-6.  I lost more than 15 lbs in a year, but with no starving myself and no intensive workouts- just simply a change of eating in the French Paradox way.  The largest change I saw was in my waist- I went from 29 inches to 25.5 inches.  I never lost to that point in the states- crazy!

My official goal is 54 kg, or 120lbs.  I find for my height, that weight is appropriate- but I know now it will come off as it wants to.

So.  Now Americans should try out the paradox...

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Advice: Things to Know When Coming to France

I have been compiling a list mentally since I've moved to France regarding the differences and the things I must ABSOLUTELY avoid or DO while living in France.  It's sad, because many Americans who come overseas disregard it, and assume that Lyon is an extension of the States (it is most definitely NOT).  I can't count the countless times my French friends look disgustingly at Americans behaving rude or 'oddly' because they simply don't know how to behave differently.

DO
-Understand the difference between TU and VOUS
-Get used to putting your bread on the table, not on your plate
-Get some basic French phrases in your pocket
-Get ready to gain 10 lbs
-Compliment the host/hostess when invited to dinner
-Bring a GIFT when invited to dinner
-Learn how to use your knife and fork, 90 percent of French people use BOTH during dinner
-Finish your entire plate at dinner, there are no doggy bags
-Ask market vendors for what you would like
-Sauce your plate- mean sop up every piece with your bread.  A finished plate is a compliment.  Unfinished means you didn't like it that much.

DON'T
-Ask French women if they shave
-Be ignorant when someone proposes you try something new (i.e. forest mushrooms, Roquefort cheese)
-Assume everyone speaks english, because they don't
-Leave a tip, it makes you stick out as THE TOURIST
-Curse in French around people you don't know
-Ask for butter for your bread
-Ask for a 'Doggy Bag' at a restaurant
-Touch the produce at a market, unless the vendor says you can (they give you a basket and tell you to go at it)
-Make a face when someone mentions 'escargots', 'tripes', or 'pieds de cochons'.  They think the same thing about Pumpkin Pie and Sweet Potato Casserole with marshmallows.
-Serve yourself wine, the host/hostess serves this.

And yes, I made lots of mistakes.. it's only human.

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Advice: Le Pain (bread)

Summer time in Lyon, it's almost like a beautiful... magical.. swealtering hot time in which we can abandon all worries and take a weekend off to have a summer picnic.

Everyone has their own preference as to what makes a *perfect picnic*, but I have my own special picnic that I find.. well frankly amazing.  A few months back I talked about my favorite food shops, so you'll need to know the addresses for these in order to make up a Sasha Picnic.  The Sunday post I do will be on my own special picnic- but first thing's first; the bread.

It starts with a baguette.

Baguettes are the staple food in France, every French person has a baguette on their table during a meal, pieces torn off and put directly on the table (not on a plate).

Little know the history of bread in France, and I'm not about to give a detailed account... just a basic summary.

Every few steps in Lyon, one can find a Boulangerie- not every boulangerie holds a high quality baguette, but every boulangerie definitely has a baguette.  Sold unwrapped and set about the shop, the baguette is an experience in it's own.  Nothing compares to a French baguette in the states; from the crisp of the crust, to the dense bubbly interior- ready as a staple to sauce your plate, or simply to cut open and smother with a thick camembert cheese.

Bread has been a staple in the French meal since the middle ages, but has taken changes over time.  Upon introduction of white flour in the 16th century by the Italian nobility the Medicis, and the idea of using bread as a leavening agent, bread began to take on the whiter hue we see in modern day Baguettes.  Crisis in the 19th century turned Bonaparte to create laws to protect the prices of bread, and as always, bread has remained an essential.  The one stereotype that rings true, most French people to have a baguette in their hand when returning home.

Made an average of three times a day, a majority of boulangeries in France make it fresh from the start- from this flour is considered a state commodity and the government actually provides subsidies so flour retains a moderately low price in market.  One can buy 1 kilo of farine for only 2€, that's about 1€ a pound!

But- there are more than baguettes.  Allow me to explain (source: observatoire du pain):

Le Pain Tradition Français

A bread created from bread flour, water, salt and a rising ingredient.  Due to simplicity it is a very 'bubbly' bread, meaning there are many holes in the dough.  Great for picnics as it retains wells, and works great with creamy cheeses.








Under this category:

• La Banette (more triangular shaped than a baguette, tends to be fluffier, specialty recipe)
• La Baguette (typical slim round baguette)
• Pain au Levain (Sour Dough bread)

Le Pain Complet

Complet, meaning whole wheat.  This bread tends to be a much toothier bread , whole grain.  I usually eat sliced with melted butter/honey for breakfast.  Tends to over ride the flavor of dishes and doesn't mesh well with cheeses.  Better as a breakfast item.

Other 'complet'

• Pain au Siegle (rye bread)
• Pain aux 5 céréales
• Pain aux Noix (nut bread, very delicious)

Le Pain de Compagne

Campagne, the countryside, this bread is even more toothy than the pain complet. It's fabulous a little on the dry side served in the winter with a nice potage de boeuf or a soup.

Pain de Mie

Pain de Mie, is the sliced bread we are used to in the states.  I have rarely eaten this in France; but it is used for French Toast (which is a dessert; not breakfast in France).  Even sadnwiches are not made with it; usually we use baguettes sliced open.  The French love their crusts.

Le Pain Brioché

Pain Brioché, or just simply Brioche, is a dense, fluffy and rich sweet bread that is often served toasted for breakfast.  Tends to be full of butter, so be aware!  Definitely not for a dinner bread, but fabulous for breakfast with some butter and jam.

So.  In the states we think *bread*, we think sliced white packaged from last week.  In France, bread is an art and a sustenance for the daily meal.

Now, you gotta try all the types of bread and find your favorite- personally I'm a Banette type of gal.

P.S.  My favorite boulangerie:  Les Garçons Boulangers.  Miam.

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Story Time: Trip to the Salon

It took me one year and two months to build up the courage to go to a hair salon in France.  I had envisioned total destruction to my hair, as I had read a multitude of angry bloggers discussing their Bad Hair Experiences.  I was almost ready in May when I took a stroll with a good friend of mine from Sweden.  Her hair was tied up, and she mentioned she had recently got it cut.  When she took it down it was horrific.  The layers were mismatched, areas in the back were chunky and short... I put off the cutting until I saw a recent photo of myself and my blah hair:

I had went to a barbeque of a good friend, and after the photos came out I was a bit shocked.  My hair had become shaggy, worse the ends were torn up and abimés. It was officially time to get a hair cut.












The next logical step was to find a salon.  I knew I couldn't rely on them speaking English so I reviewed a blog post I had written a few months prior.  It discussed the typical words we use in the salon.  Alongside this I printed up some color photos to show what I wanted and prepared over a week for the cut.

I ended up calling a salon in the 6ème called, Lounge Cut.  Recommended by the Petit Paumé I was fully aware of the positive reviews of this place.  I called to take a reservation, and got in less than a week.

I was even more excited when I got there, and saw it was a nice little salon, with only 3 chairs for cutting, no giant hair factory.

I showed my photos and hashed through my French.  When I mentioned it had been over a year from my last cut; the coiffeuse was shocked.  She took about 3 inches of hair and said, "On doit les couper, si tu voudrais, car ils sont tellement abimés" I understood that one.  We should cut this much because I failed to respect my hair and I had split ends up the HIZZY.







I agreed.

The best part of Lounge Cut, is they cut it dry, like in many salons in the states.  She washed after, massaged my head, and then spent another 40 minutes styling.  I think next time I'll skip the 'brushing', but it did make my hair feel super soft.  She used scissors, not razors, unlike many French stylists.






Lei Wei, my stylist, also told me that there are a lot of English clients, and that Mark, another stylist can speak English.  So. Any one looking to get their hair cut by an English speaker, check out Lounge Cut and see Mark.  Lei Wei can also speak English, but she is better at understanding.


I felt great.  I promised to come back every 3 months, or 6 months maxi as she told me.

And the results, of my first cut in France?

I am happy.  It's definitely much more comfy for summer, I was smothering in my hair.

Not So Appropriate French Words

For me it is easy to pick up languages, I listen on the television, watch some French series.  I watch the news every morning on BFM television to see what actualities are up.  I often spend 2 weekends during the month at Brian's parent's house where I absorb and practice.

I've officially hit the level of French where no one teases me for huge errors nor accent mistakes- but little ways I pronounce my words they find cute.  I find it absolutely ridicule that they like my American accent.  I try my best to focus and really pronounce my words sans accent because I think the American accent sounds TERRIBLE.

I didn't, however, realize that the words we use around friends is probably not so appropriate around family or family friends.  I learned this Saturday night while enjoying an invitation to an old family friend.  I was surrounded by J and R, Bri's parents, and we wdere deep in discussion.  I spilled a bit of wine on myself and exclaimed, "PUTAIN!" The conversation stopped short, and about 6 pairs of beady French eyes stared at me.

J softly touched my arms and said, "Tu sais, ce n'est pas un mot très gentille...".  I felt aghast, wanted to run and hide in a closet.  In the States I rarely cursed around people, and it was never like I was a Sailor mouth or anything.  I looked down at my hands and looked back up to meet the beady eyes, "Qu'est-ce que c'est un meilleur moyen de le dire?" Then I got my next French lesson.  Appropriate curse words.

I guess I was always under the assumption the French were more liberal with curse words, I'd heard 10 year olds cursing in the street, parents cursing alongside them.  I would find out these people were in fact not being appropriate. Sex is freely portrayed around here, and the curse words that do pop on the screen are unblipped.  Also, when speaking a second language, these words have less meaning and so if it becomes a habit, it's one that is difficult to break.

Now my struggle and my retraining:

Putain will now be MINCE!
Salop will now be salaud.
Je vais pisser will now be je vais pipi ou je vais aller au toilette
Merde will now be mince.
La bite will not be said any more.

It's not easy.  I remember the day after I was talking about something and I almost slipped out a putain I covered it by saying instead; Pu----voirs... oui.. pouvoirs. The problem being putain is so much easier to say than mince, mince has a weird back of the throat I noise that I haven't quite mastered.

I guess lesson learned: just because you here the words every where does not mean they are appropriate everywhere.

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Advice: Family Care Packages

After moving overseas, there will most likely be a time when your family will want to send you a care package.  It's not a complicated process, but there are some very important things to pay attention to.

First off:

U.S. Postal service offers one size only boxes where you can send as much as you can stuff into a box for only about $50. It has a maximum of about 50 lbs, and the best part is that it can be tracked.  Here's where it gets particular:

1. The package contents must be worth less than $1,000
2. The contents must be of personal use, if not your family will want to note on the customs form *CADEAUX*

When the family wants to send a package:

-Stuff the box as much as possible
-Note on the OUTSIDE of the box, "CADEAUX" and also note clearly the "RENDRE CHEZ BUREAU DE POSTE *INSERT ADDRESS OF CLOSEST POSTE TO YOU*"

The return to Bureau is the MOST important piece to remember.  Many times I have heard friends that have waited for their loving packages only to find it was sent back to the States because the post office wasn't able to deliver.

Ensure also to remember the simple address pieces, such as, is the *batiment sur cour* or *4ème étage*.  We don't need to do this in the states, but due to the old buildings and structures in France, it's never completely clear WHERE the apartment is located.

Now the fun part, what to send?
-American Trash Mags
-McCormick Seasoning packs (beef stew, chili, taco, spice mixes)
-Peanut Butter (incredibly expensive here)
-Skittles
-Reeses Pieces
-Root Beer Mix
-Cream of Tartar
-Cornbread Mix (Jiffy)
-Dried Black Beans
-Jello Mix
-Kraft Macaroni and Cheese
-English Cook Books or Reading books not available in France
-Twinkies
-Reeses Peanut Butter Cups
-Steel Cut Oats
-Snickers
-Chocolate Chips (White/Milk Chocolate)
-Smuckers Grape Jelly (I know, evil of me)
-Canned Pumpkin
-Microwave Popcorn
-Wild Rice
-College Ruled Notebooks

Then you can be as happy as Bri and I...

As you can see, my mom is the pro at package sending.








Happy sending, if any doubts or if hunting/ packaging isn't your thing:

http://sendcare.com/

Apparently they will send packages for you. Neat idea!

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