Oh my goodness, by surfing about the net I came across some information that absolutely tickles my fancy- a live animal market in the center of the city!!
Place Carnot hosts a weekly market specialized in domestic pets every Sunday from 8h to 12h. This is going to have to be a place I must visit. Marchés in France are often streeets lined with cars or table tops and covered in product, I can only imagine a city block filled with cute kittens (why must you be allergic Bri, why!?) and puppies. A Google Search of marché des chiens turned up photos of cooked up dogs in public markets in the East- somehow not exactly what I was looking for.
I just had no idea that there was a special marché dedicated to the cute baby animals that I haven't seen in ages! I don't even know where to find a Pet Store in Lyon!
A search on the Bibliothèque de Lyon however turned up some photos from the turn of the century, where the marché was still active!
*note: there are also several more old photos of interest on this site. If you ever have a minute to scan through.
I've thought about getting a bunny, but I actually like rabbit meat so I think it's be strange to keep an animal I tend to eat. Hamsters and rats are overdone, I've had like 5 in my life, plus Bri thinks keeping small rodent type animals is just plain wrong.
I guess it's just gonna have to wait a few years until we have a big enough house for a dog!
All the same. Place Carnot, Sundays from 8am to 12pm? I am so there.
Keep posted for one final post before I head off for vacation- then I'll be trying to post while in Spain... although that tends to be a feat in it's own. Tapas, sangria, cava... ohh yeah.
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From flip flops in Oregon to high heels in France, a young American who lived 3 years overseas, and now facing the backward culture shock of moving back.
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Showing posts with label Markets in France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Markets in France. Show all posts
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Sunday, May 22, 2011
What_What: M Ton Marché
By chance I was watching the local Lyonnais channel TLM when I came across this totally awesome movement via the web (hosted of course by our lovely Rhone Commerce center) that puts the positive back on marchés.
Seeing how people usually avoid the marché at a young age, especially for the following reasons:
Seeing how people usually avoid the marché at a young age, especially for the following reasons:
- Getting up at 10am is physically impossible for many students;
- Only old people shop the marché;
- Everything is more expensive at the marche;
- What's the point?
Well, there is a big point of going to the marché, and the region here is trying to show why. M Ton Marché is a play on words, which goes to say, Aimes Ton Marché. Means love your market, and in order to do this they have created a website by the same name. M Ton Marché is going to become a sort of profile on the markets in the Rhone Alpes region, an exposé that puts the positive back in balader du marché.
I'm always amazed at the negative context surrounding the markets in France. I see tons of young people walking around with carrefour or Lidl sacs, believing they have saved a load of money. In reality, by smart shopping and buying in season we can eat more vegetables and fruits, create a relationship with our food and appreciate the effort even more.
France is meant to be the one place that shopping for the food is still an art and a pleasure. You have your lovely wicker basket, you look lovingly at your French lover and ask for a kilo of tomatoes. It's a fantastic experience as roasted chickens waft in the air, the smell of fresh produce entices your appetite.
Lidl sacs or wicker baskets? I choose basket.
M Ton Marché is available, but definitely needs some continuing work. Soon there will be profiles on our favorite producer's (I hope for the dairy guy, the chicken dude and my shouting fruity dude). They will explain the different areas of the marché, which is difficult as the marché tends to change weekly..
In the mean time.. here's my marché map..
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Advice: Search for the Perfect Wine Shop
Everyone in France has a wine person, either they know someone who is a personal distributor or they go to a local wine shop for advice and recommendations. In December I wrote a little piece regarding the importance of pairing wine with food and how the French adore their wines. It's even okay for a pregnant woman to have a glass a day during pregnancy, but they warn, no hard alcohol.
It's for this reason I began hunting around Lyon for a wine ship, while Nicholas is a great place to start I find it a bit corporate and McDonald's chain like for my tastes. I needed to find a shop with the quintessential fabricator dancing around, red in the cheeks from drinking his own stock. While I see many of these clochard type people laying around Perrache drinking straight from bottles of Vin Ordinaire- I couldn't find that type of a wine guy in a shop, until I discovered Bon Vins de France.
I had it on my marché map for a long time and was excited to finally make a stop to see what the hubbub was all about. The instant I walked in I felt as though I was in some old man's cave du vin and then as I looked past the shelves I saw the little old man I had wanted to meet; he waddled over to me about half my size and smiled with a pupkin-mouthed toothless grin.
Je peux vous aider?
I smiled at him. While most people would be afraid or worried, I could see he know the product and he knew wine. The best thing was that they (him and his wife) worked side-by-side and sold not only specialty wines but their own brew for a little 1.20€ a litre. Not great for eating, but great for cooking with or taking to a quick picnic. He waited for me to respond and I looked around,
En fait, je cherche une bouteille du Champagne pour un fête.
He nodded and quickly ushered me to the back of the shop towards the array of champagnes and began explaining the difference bottles, some were more 'bubbly' than others and some were more fine in the taste than the rest. I ended up taking a beautiful bottle for 17€ and thanked him graciously for his advice. He grinned his toothless smile and his wife wrapped up my bottle to look beautiful for my little dinner.
I looked back and he waddled off to tend to his wine bottles, swinging serviette in tow. His wife waved once more and I headed out.
Definitely the perfect little wine shop for me.
If you want to go:
Bon Vins de France
11 Rue Aimé Collomb
69003 Lyon
Sunday, January 23, 2011
What-What: les Producteurs Fermiers
In America we have this big outcry for biological and organic products and yet here, just in the outlines of the city, lie hundreds of farms that sell locally created products. If you are an American living in France or even just an American in general... watch the documentary: Food, Inc. I recently watched it on my French television and was absolutely disgusted by the amount of artificial perservatives Americans eat. Worse, we have a major 'corn addiction' and genetically modified foods are a typical part of our diet.
It's for this reason I was ecstatic to discover a marché in Lyon called the "Producteurs Marché". This marché is a direct from farm marché- this means there is no middleman. Farmers from around the Rhone-Alpes comes to the center of Lyon to sell their own products. Because of the cost incurred from the travel to Lyon, prices tend to be a bit more expensive in comparison to the normal market; but the quality is perfect. Another huge difference is the respect one must have towards the market-people... because they are farmers it's important to understand that they know the product better than you. Here's some information about etiquette at the marché: Etiquette at the Marché.
Now these farmers head to Place Carnot every Wednesday between 4:00pm and 7:30pm. I like the farmer's market but I can't afford to go every week.. however to purchase some of my basics (butter, eggs) it's definitely do-able and I am rewarded with a wonderful tasting product.. and a pretty damn good omelette!
If you feel the need to go on a little adventure one day.. I'd recommend heading out to a co-op marché outside of the city, it's a landing base for all the local farmers that can't make it to Place Carnot. A bus goes directly to the area and surrounding the marché are plenty of parks and forests. Take a little basket, shop for your lunch at the co-op and then find a nice spot in the woods to have a post-marché picnic lunch.
A crusty baguette, bottle of wine, fresh charcuteries, some fruit and a nice fresh pressed cheese and butter will make it unforgettable; plus it will be more like ancient France and less 'prepackaged super markets'.
Information:
La Ferme Lyonnaise (big co-op outside of Lyon)
26 b avenue Edouard Millaud
69290 CRAPONNE
Weekly Farmer's Market in Lyon: Wednesdays between 4:00pm to 7:30pm on Place Carnot near Perrache.
Link to Farmers of Lyon
It's for this reason I was ecstatic to discover a marché in Lyon called the "Producteurs Marché". This marché is a direct from farm marché- this means there is no middleman. Farmers from around the Rhone-Alpes comes to the center of Lyon to sell their own products. Because of the cost incurred from the travel to Lyon, prices tend to be a bit more expensive in comparison to the normal market; but the quality is perfect. Another huge difference is the respect one must have towards the market-people... because they are farmers it's important to understand that they know the product better than you. Here's some information about etiquette at the marché: Etiquette at the Marché.
Now these farmers head to Place Carnot every Wednesday between 4:00pm and 7:30pm. I like the farmer's market but I can't afford to go every week.. however to purchase some of my basics (butter, eggs) it's definitely do-able and I am rewarded with a wonderful tasting product.. and a pretty damn good omelette!
If you feel the need to go on a little adventure one day.. I'd recommend heading out to a co-op marché outside of the city, it's a landing base for all the local farmers that can't make it to Place Carnot. A bus goes directly to the area and surrounding the marché are plenty of parks and forests. Take a little basket, shop for your lunch at the co-op and then find a nice spot in the woods to have a post-marché picnic lunch.
A crusty baguette, bottle of wine, fresh charcuteries, some fruit and a nice fresh pressed cheese and butter will make it unforgettable; plus it will be more like ancient France and less 'prepackaged super markets'.
Information:
La Ferme Lyonnaise (big co-op outside of Lyon)
26 b avenue Edouard Millaud
69290 CRAPONNE
Weekly Farmer's Market in Lyon: Wednesdays between 4:00pm to 7:30pm on Place Carnot near Perrache.
Link to Farmers of Lyon
Friday, January 21, 2011
Found: Rue Vaubecour
I take many adventures in Lyon, some make me end up in a very bad area of town.. some help me to discover treasures in my city. This adventure brought me discovery and it was a welcome one. Part of my new job is spreading the word, I go forth in the city, explain BabySpeaking to people and drop off flyers to different businesses that families and students frequent. In order to do this the best I do a lot of wandering around and sort of feeling my way around the city.
As readers know, I keep a map of my favorite places to food shop around the city. Some people hold a passion in clothes shopping, I have a passion towards food, high quality ingredients and local distributors. I already have my local boulangerie, the woman is patient with me and understands my issues in French. I also found my favorite super marché for all those items unavailable in the marchés.. now I am still hunting for other local products that I can purchase to live life the French way.
Now onto my next discover, Rue Vaubecour. Rue Vaubecour is located right at the southern end of rue du plat, I was lost when I found it but realized later it was because of a Google spelling error; they titled it 'rue vaubecourt' adding a lovely extra T. Totally threw me off, I'm lost most of the time any way, but it didn't help. So why is this little street a gastronomic find?
From 6 rue Vaubecour to 25 rue vaubecour (like a 1/2 mile) there are many little food establishments that are not listed on Googlemaps.
6 rue Vaubecour - Poissonnerie
7 rue Vaubecour - Boucherie
9 rue Vaubecour - Traiteur, Chacutier, Rotisserie (sells roasted chickens)
13ish rue Vaubcour - Fromagerie
Speckled around these shops are grocery marts and 3 boulangeries/patisseries. The best part? This street is also well equipped with antiques- if you are into that sort of thing. Looking into the windows of the antique stores transports you back into an era of traditional French life.. plus sometimes you can get lucky and find beautiful decor for your apartment for not too expensive.
I definitely plan to do a round of shopping on this street next week, even though shopping tends to be an effort in this fashion, it's all part of the preparation in cooking. Now, I need to find out where I can buy some frog legs...
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As readers know, I keep a map of my favorite places to food shop around the city. Some people hold a passion in clothes shopping, I have a passion towards food, high quality ingredients and local distributors. I already have my local boulangerie, the woman is patient with me and understands my issues in French. I also found my favorite super marché for all those items unavailable in the marchés.. now I am still hunting for other local products that I can purchase to live life the French way.
Now onto my next discover, Rue Vaubecour. Rue Vaubecour is located right at the southern end of rue du plat, I was lost when I found it but realized later it was because of a Google spelling error; they titled it 'rue vaubecourt' adding a lovely extra T. Totally threw me off, I'm lost most of the time any way, but it didn't help. So why is this little street a gastronomic find?
From 6 rue Vaubecour to 25 rue vaubecour (like a 1/2 mile) there are many little food establishments that are not listed on Googlemaps.
6 rue Vaubecour - Poissonnerie
7 rue Vaubecour - Boucherie
9 rue Vaubecour - Traiteur, Chacutier, Rotisserie (sells roasted chickens)
13ish rue Vaubcour - Fromagerie
Speckled around these shops are grocery marts and 3 boulangeries/patisseries. The best part? This street is also well equipped with antiques- if you are into that sort of thing. Looking into the windows of the antique stores transports you back into an era of traditional French life.. plus sometimes you can get lucky and find beautiful decor for your apartment for not too expensive.
I definitely plan to do a round of shopping on this street next week, even though shopping tends to be an effort in this fashion, it's all part of the preparation in cooking. Now, I need to find out where I can buy some frog legs...
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Thursday, January 20, 2011
Found: Cap Epices
I was out spreading the word about BabySpeaking when I wandered across this little gem of a marché. Everywhere I have been looking for a specialist in spices; not the glass jar type you see in the grocery store- or even the kind I had to trapse over to Guillotière for. Something nearby that carried all the spices that my heart desired. I wanted equally the ability to purchase in bulk grams, but to know it comes from a local provider who hand selects the product.
I stared into the window of Cap Epices and saw multitudes of glass and metal containers holding beautiful spices. The front window is whimsical, showing sacs of herbs and typical spices we use on a daily basis. 50g of peppercorns were 1.50€; and for those who don't know much about food or spices.. that's cheap. At Carrefour a 48g glass container of peppercorns is 3.20€; that means you get 50% off of store prices from a specialist in spices! The sacs remind me of an open marché, but the prices resemble those of a discount store.
It's a little shop that opened up in 1997 on Rue de la Charité; ensuring their quality is high they pay attention to distributors and special attention to clients. They offer basics (from ground ginger to piment) to mixtures that they create (for pot-au-feu, or special dishes). What's even better is they offer teas and infusions as well! Plus, just walking into the shop is like walking into spice heaven.. additionally if you live far away you can purchase and have it shipped (although pricy).
I plan to go there.. definitely.. mostly because I love spices (which is very opposite from French cooking) and I love different regional cuisines. Trying new recipes with all these beautiful spices will be an experience; plus I have a ball every time a French person comes into my kitchen and exclaims, "Mais, t'as beaucoup des epices!" (but, you have so many spices!).
Information: CAP EPICES 39, rue de la Charité 69002 LYON
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I stared into the window of Cap Epices and saw multitudes of glass and metal containers holding beautiful spices. The front window is whimsical, showing sacs of herbs and typical spices we use on a daily basis. 50g of peppercorns were 1.50€; and for those who don't know much about food or spices.. that's cheap. At Carrefour a 48g glass container of peppercorns is 3.20€; that means you get 50% off of store prices from a specialist in spices! The sacs remind me of an open marché, but the prices resemble those of a discount store.
It's a little shop that opened up in 1997 on Rue de la Charité; ensuring their quality is high they pay attention to distributors and special attention to clients. They offer basics (from ground ginger to piment) to mixtures that they create (for pot-au-feu, or special dishes). What's even better is they offer teas and infusions as well! Plus, just walking into the shop is like walking into spice heaven.. additionally if you live far away you can purchase and have it shipped (although pricy).
I plan to go there.. definitely.. mostly because I love spices (which is very opposite from French cooking) and I love different regional cuisines. Trying new recipes with all these beautiful spices will be an experience; plus I have a ball every time a French person comes into my kitchen and exclaims, "Mais, t'as beaucoup des epices!" (but, you have so many spices!).
Information: CAP EPICES 39, rue de la Charité 69002 LYON
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Sunday, December 26, 2010
Found: Rue de la Charité
The other day I was venturing to my typical Super Marché (U-Express) when I took a wrong turn and ended up down a street that I didn't recognize. I thought I had labelled every little street on my Googlemap, the places with the good boulangeries, the fromageries- but this was a new discovery!
From Place Bellecour, there's a little street called, "Rue de la Charité". This street is a little hidden gem in the metropolis we call Lyon; a small street, one way even. Along this street there are several different merchants within one block; 2 boulangeries with high quality, yet modestly priced bread-goods; 1 fromagerie where I found a decadent 'St. Marcelin' for only 3.95€. A vegetable market (although more expensive than the marchés), a boucherie and to top it all off a 'multi-use' store by the U brand... where one can find the basics that a Target would offer back home.
Between 30 to 60 Rue de la Charité one could do all their shopping in style, the prices are not excessive; and it's a nice change from the typical super marché atmosphere; besides this is part of my long list of resolutions. Julia Child would spend a day hunting for the perfect ingredients for a meal, even though this time has been condensed into Super formats- I still find a little excitement from smelling the cheese shop or talking directly with the guy who is butchering my meat.
Googlemaps haven't quite caught onto this little street of dreams; and I hope it remains in it's little secret space.
Happy shopping!
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From Place Bellecour, there's a little street called, "Rue de la Charité". This street is a little hidden gem in the metropolis we call Lyon; a small street, one way even. Along this street there are several different merchants within one block; 2 boulangeries with high quality, yet modestly priced bread-goods; 1 fromagerie where I found a decadent 'St. Marcelin' for only 3.95€. A vegetable market (although more expensive than the marchés), a boucherie and to top it all off a 'multi-use' store by the U brand... where one can find the basics that a Target would offer back home.
Between 30 to 60 Rue de la Charité one could do all their shopping in style, the prices are not excessive; and it's a nice change from the typical super marché atmosphere; besides this is part of my long list of resolutions. Julia Child would spend a day hunting for the perfect ingredients for a meal, even though this time has been condensed into Super formats- I still find a little excitement from smelling the cheese shop or talking directly with the guy who is butchering my meat.
Googlemaps haven't quite caught onto this little street of dreams; and I hope it remains in it's little secret space.
Happy shopping!
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Sunday, November 28, 2010
What-What: Marché de Noël
Since 1996, Lyon has opened Place Carnot (near Perrache) as the area for their yearly Christmas Market. A Christmas Market in Europe is truly an experience for all ages. In our home, Bri & I have what we call the Christmas Spirit. We love Christmas, and the Marché is like walking into a small world of Christmas... the lights, the children laughing, the père noël... all amazing and brings out that bit of spirit.
Each shop offers specialities for the Christmas season, some are decorations for the Christmas tree. Some are snacks or candies that only arrive for the winter holidays. A personal favorite is the 'vin chaud' or hot spiced wine. As America is so stingy on their 'alcohol laws' this is something that will never exist in the public- but here anyone from 16+ can drop 1€ and get a cup of the warm stuff. It's also wonderful to find unique artisinal gifts... I once bought a package of 'spiced wine mix' and now I make my own vin chaud 'a la maison'.
November 26 marks the opening of this market in Lyon. It's the final weekend in November and it represents the welcoming of the winter season. This weekend the market will have specialities and deals on the seller's products, even a cheaper 'vin chaud'.
For anyone who is spending their first year here, I recommend bundling up in your warmest and making the trek to the marché, especially in the evening. It's located right in front of Perrache in the 2ème, in 'Place Carnot'. Little cafés are dotted around the area, in case of a need for cocoa or coffee, and it's just large enough to spend about 2€ on some Vin Chaud and wander through. Many times there are also crêpe makers and marrons roasters for a warm snack. It's open daily until 20h at night.
a+ and Happy Marché de Noël
Each shop offers specialities for the Christmas season, some are decorations for the Christmas tree. Some are snacks or candies that only arrive for the winter holidays. A personal favorite is the 'vin chaud' or hot spiced wine. As America is so stingy on their 'alcohol laws' this is something that will never exist in the public- but here anyone from 16+ can drop 1€ and get a cup of the warm stuff. It's also wonderful to find unique artisinal gifts... I once bought a package of 'spiced wine mix' and now I make my own vin chaud 'a la maison'.
November 26 marks the opening of this market in Lyon. It's the final weekend in November and it represents the welcoming of the winter season. This weekend the market will have specialities and deals on the seller's products, even a cheaper 'vin chaud'.
For anyone who is spending their first year here, I recommend bundling up in your warmest and making the trek to the marché, especially in the evening. It's located right in front of Perrache in the 2ème, in 'Place Carnot'. Little cafés are dotted around the area, in case of a need for cocoa or coffee, and it's just large enough to spend about 2€ on some Vin Chaud and wander through. Many times there are also crêpe makers and marrons roasters for a warm snack. It's open daily until 20h at night.
a+ and Happy Marché de Noël
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Advice: Sunday Flea Market!
Wondering what to do on a lazy Sunday morning... before the giant French meal, nearing the end of a long and lovely restful weekend?
Yesterday I learned about a market in Lyon that is amazing...
Les Puces du Canal is in Villerbanne but holds the 2nd largest flea market in France! This place has over 400 commerçants that come in their little French camions bringing their house treasures or antiques to sell in a public place.
The market starts at 6am on Sunday, every sunday, rain or shine. It is also on Thursdays and Saturdays- but Sundays are truly the day to go. It goes until around 1pm.... the real treasure hunters arrive at exactly 6am to find the next 'treasure'. Remember awhile back when I discussed decorating a home in France? Well this is a great opportunity to 'barter' and mingle with locals and get some really nice antiques.
Plan a trip to Les Puces du Canal
1 rue du Canal, Villeurbanne
Arrive around 10am, right when the market is bustling and take a look around. The market is full of a range of products and prices- sometimes one can get lucky on any day. Hang out and debate with the commerçants.. remember to be polite!
This is also a great market for those who love vintage clothing- several stalls sell clothes from a variety of eras... and remember the best thing about vintage is it's unique and one of a kind!
Around 12:30pm or so, head over to a sausage stand, or even to their restaurant nearby and grab a snack or drink. Watch as people walk away with loads of stuff and relflect on the classical furniture you just saw.
I know where I'll be on Sunday!
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Yesterday I learned about a market in Lyon that is amazing...
Les Puces du Canal is in Villerbanne but holds the 2nd largest flea market in France! This place has over 400 commerçants that come in their little French camions bringing their house treasures or antiques to sell in a public place.
The market starts at 6am on Sunday, every sunday, rain or shine. It is also on Thursdays and Saturdays- but Sundays are truly the day to go. It goes until around 1pm.... the real treasure hunters arrive at exactly 6am to find the next 'treasure'. Remember awhile back when I discussed decorating a home in France? Well this is a great opportunity to 'barter' and mingle with locals and get some really nice antiques.
Plan a trip to Les Puces du Canal
1 rue du Canal, Villeurbanne
Arrive around 10am, right when the market is bustling and take a look around. The market is full of a range of products and prices- sometimes one can get lucky on any day. Hang out and debate with the commerçants.. remember to be polite!
This is also a great market for those who love vintage clothing- several stalls sell clothes from a variety of eras... and remember the best thing about vintage is it's unique and one of a kind!
Around 12:30pm or so, head over to a sausage stand, or even to their restaurant nearby and grab a snack or drink. Watch as people walk away with loads of stuff and relflect on the classical furniture you just saw.
I know where I'll be on Sunday!
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Saturday, October 30, 2010
Story Time: La Boucherie
Today we trudged out in the rain because we were out of eggs for our 'Saturday morning pancakes'. The marché eggs are always free range and way cheaper than the super-marché (like 1.70 for 6 free range, butt feathers still attached.)
I frequent le marché on 'Saint-Antoine Célestins'; on Saturdays it's bustling and filled with fresh produce, happy stall owners and lots of life. At the end is a street called, 'rue grennette' which houses one of my favorite, AND marks my first visit to a Boucherie.
Called, la Boucherie Centrale, it looks as though it is ran by a family. The old man behind the counter was all smiles as he picked out my beef and cut it into pieces for me, the pork.. the paté en croute. It's always a little more expensive, which is why I make it a rare occasion to venture out to a boucherie.
The meat is all slaughtered/butchered by the family and the quality shows on the product- the beef is a beautiful red color and will be perfect for my 'sunday stew' as the weather has gotten colder.
I love buying fresh meat- it's an animalistic and a very French feeling..
The address for this Boucherie is: 3 Rue Grenette, 69002 Lyon, France
Enjoy!
a+
I frequent le marché on 'Saint-Antoine Célestins'; on Saturdays it's bustling and filled with fresh produce, happy stall owners and lots of life. At the end is a street called, 'rue grennette' which houses one of my favorite, AND marks my first visit to a Boucherie.
Called, la Boucherie Centrale, it looks as though it is ran by a family. The old man behind the counter was all smiles as he picked out my beef and cut it into pieces for me, the pork.. the paté en croute. It's always a little more expensive, which is why I make it a rare occasion to venture out to a boucherie.
The meat is all slaughtered/butchered by the family and the quality shows on the product- the beef is a beautiful red color and will be perfect for my 'sunday stew' as the weather has gotten colder.
I love buying fresh meat- it's an animalistic and a very French feeling..
The address for this Boucherie is: 3 Rue Grenette, 69002 Lyon, France
Enjoy!
a+
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Advice: Marché-Etiquette & Rules.
About two months ago I wrote a truly tragic post regarding my bad experience with a peach vendor in the marché. I wondered, was the marché atmosphere in France changing and so inevitable to be put in bad form with the vendors? Was it now a passé, as supermarchés became the norm?
I refused to believe it so I set forth to do a little research on my own. A friend of mine who visits France every summer, spends this vacation in a small French town. He was visiting one weekend and we got onto the discussion of marchés- and he pointed out something I didn't even consider...
Market Etiquette
The fact that there is a certain way to behave, to show respect, it all relies on you. I have spent the last few months trying to figure this out and I think I finally got it down.
You really can get a good deal; I bought all the veggies in the photo below for only €8 and the lemons were only €1!!
My Favorite Marchés:
Quai Victor Augagneur: 51 commerçants at it's maximum, sells a variety of products from cheeses to vegetables/fruits. Has one of my favorite vegetable merchants, last time sold me some tomatoes and lettuce, very 'gently', picked out the perfect one. Got lemons for €1.
Marché de la Croix-Russe: On the Boulevard de la Croix-Russe, incredibly huge with 109 commerçants. Sundays or Saturdays are the best day to go, very lively.
I refused to believe it so I set forth to do a little research on my own. A friend of mine who visits France every summer, spends this vacation in a small French town. He was visiting one weekend and we got onto the discussion of marchés- and he pointed out something I didn't even consider...
Market Etiquette
The fact that there is a certain way to behave, to show respect, it all relies on you. I have spent the last few months trying to figure this out and I think I finally got it down.
- Respect the Product: When shopping in the marché, don't just go and grab all the fruits testing for their ripeness. Look at them, wait, if a sign says self service- then be free to do so.
- Ask the Vendor: It shows an enormous amount of respect to ask the vendors questions about their product, when was it picked; when would it be best used by; which is your favorite?
- Respect the Vendor: This is the MOST important, when buying a product from the marché, ask the vendor directly... don't go grabbing for yourself. Asking is simple and actually saves you time. What do I mean by asking? I mean tell the vendor you would like 500 grams of tomatoes. They will pick the ripest for you, and always get exactly the grams/kilograms you asked for. It also builds a relationship- and often they'll give you a deal on the product.
- Say Thank You: I know it seems minimal, but this simple little phrase and a 'bon journée' represents the fact that you are respecting the French culture.
- Don't Be Offended: If the vendor is abrupt or even quick with talking to you- it's their livelihood to sell the products and quickly.. they aren't mean people, they just are nice farmers who may not be that sociable.
You really can get a good deal; I bought all the veggies in the photo below for only €8 and the lemons were only €1!!
My Favorite Marchés:
Quai Victor Augagneur: 51 commerçants at it's maximum, sells a variety of products from cheeses to vegetables/fruits. Has one of my favorite vegetable merchants, last time sold me some tomatoes and lettuce, very 'gently', picked out the perfect one. Got lemons for €1.
Marché de la Croix-Russe: On the Boulevard de la Croix-Russe, incredibly huge with 109 commerçants. Sundays or Saturdays are the best day to go, very lively.
Friday, October 1, 2010
Advice: In Season Vegetables
I recently went to the library in the 2ème and checked out a beautiful book (in French) about all these vegetables.. and so I listed and translated everything that's in season, since, well, it's October now!
There's a new marché also I was told by Bri, along le 'Quai Claude Bernard'... near Lyon 2 in front of la rhône... It's apparently a marché open from 3-6pm! An evening marché for those of us who can't get up at 6am.
So here goes la liste!
Carrots (carottes)
Celery (celerie)
Chestnuts (châtaine)
Cauliflower (chou-fleurs)
Brocoli (brocoli)
Cabbages...
green, new (vert nouveau)
milan
Brussel Sprouts (chou de Bruxelles)
Squash (corge)
Shallots (échalote)
Spinach (épinard)
Fenouil (same)
Navet
Yellow Onions (oignons jaunes)
Parsnip (panais)
Green Pepper (poivron vert)
Leeks (poireaux)
Potatoes
Belle de Fontenay (sautéeing)
Charlotte (sautéeing, purée)
Red potatoes
Grenaille
Tomatoes
Rutabega
Betterave
Allrecipes.com offers some awesome veggie recipes.. so I'd recommend giving them a look. Vegetables are cheap and healthy... and hey, take advantage- because in the United States the food is always terribly expensive.. here's it's cheap cheap!
Good luck!
a+
There's a new marché also I was told by Bri, along le 'Quai Claude Bernard'... near Lyon 2 in front of la rhône... It's apparently a marché open from 3-6pm! An evening marché for those of us who can't get up at 6am.
So here goes la liste!
Carrots (carottes)
Celery (celerie)
Chestnuts (châtaine)
Cauliflower (chou-fleurs)
Brocoli (brocoli)
Cabbages...
green, new (vert nouveau)
milan
Brussel Sprouts (chou de Bruxelles)
Squash (corge)
Shallots (échalote)
Spinach (épinard)
Fenouil (same)
Navet
Yellow Onions (oignons jaunes)
Parsnip (panais)
Green Pepper (poivron vert)
Leeks (poireaux)
Potatoes
Belle de Fontenay (sautéeing)
Charlotte (sautéeing, purée)
Red potatoes
Grenaille
Tomatoes
Rutabega
Betterave
Allrecipes.com offers some awesome veggie recipes.. so I'd recommend giving them a look. Vegetables are cheap and healthy... and hey, take advantage- because in the United States the food is always terribly expensive.. here's it's cheap cheap!
Good luck!
a+
Friday, September 10, 2010
What-What: Run Down on Asian Markets
Everyone knows about Guillotière, and if you don't, it’s in the 7ème in Lyon, next to a metro stop, kinda intimidating if you’ve never been. Why? Well it’s like a sub-culture in Lyon. A lot of immigrants from Algeria, North Africa and different parts of Asia have congregated into the area and it’s like a melting pot of these cultures. When I say it’s intimidating, I mean it’s just as if you’ve walked out of France into a new place.
The hidden treasure in this place are the Asian/Arabic grocery stores. You might think: what is there in an Asian store that isn’t in a normal store? Or you may even think: I am afraid to go into one, what if they find me weird? Or even, Huh? Asian store?
These places are filled with things that are way cheaper, variety of products and things that are fun to test in the kitchen. Here’s some examples:
![]() |
| Thai Yellow Curry, 1.60 in market |
- Rice, by the kilo, is only €2.20. It’s higher quality, better taste.
- Yellow curry paste (picture) to be used in Thai Yellow Curry (recipe)
- Coconut milk to be used in Thai Yellow Curry
- Canned baby corns
- Giant Shrimp Chips for €1
- Buttload of seasonings that are super cheap
- Wonton Wrappers
- Curry Powder (it’s like.. awesome)
- Frozen dim sum
- Seafood
- Noodles in Pouches that are spicy and great when you’re sick
- Lots of flavorings
- Mochi

My multitude of spices
There’s more, but in order to truly enjoy it you gotta step into one. They speak French, just say ‘bonjour’ waltz in, grab a basket and enjoy.
Other places to check out while in that neighborhood is: Bahdourian and Bombay Indian Bazaar.
A+
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
French Food Prices versus United States..
Yesterday was an adventure all alone.. Usually Bri escorts me around Lyon, normally because of the last time I wandered off alone (meaning: I was heading towards Guillotière and this punk around my age started coming into my personal space and talking to me, hitting on me, EVEN THOUGH I had my earphones on) it really scared the shit out of me.
But, I was in the position where I really needed to run some errands, and he really needed to work on his mèmoire, besides, he can't hold my hand all the time.
So. Off I went, big girl panties on, Velo'v card securely packed in my backpack, earbuds in ears, hard American rock rattling my brain and off I headed.
First stop was BNP Paribas because they are reciprical with my home bank, thus no charges, no fees to pull out cash.
I p0wned that machine. *beep beep beep*, money came out,
I shoved it into my wallet and off I sped to the boulangerie down the street.
Sometimes I am truly amazed by the bread prices in France. I scored a baguette (for Mme Lebegue downstairs) and a banette (a crispy baguette-y bread with what I like to think of as "seuss toe" ends) for only 1.70 €.
Even in dollars, that's like... $2.14, so like a buck a baguette.
It's because everyone eats bread, every day, and because of that the bread is baked fresh, every day, so because of that and the lack of preservatives, it goes bad, every day, thus people end up buying a fresh new baguette, every day.
French weight loss is more than the "french paradox", we walk everywhere to get the meal on our plate; so we really earn our dinner.
Moving on.
Another joy of mine is the "Bail Distribution" across the street which is a "producer's market".
The small local company buys all this beautiful produce from farms in the surrounding area.
After they sell it in their little shop. Unfortunately, there are only two of these, and even more, they are really outside of the inner city. We had luck in this small apartment, it's across the street.
An example of some amazing prices would be the following photo, I'll tell you how much just what's in the picture cost from the market...
Alright, so above we have some produce that's recognizable- green pepper, about 1/2 pound of mushrooms, tomatoes, beautiful ripe peaches, eggplant, piment and some pears... I also got two lovely bunches of fresh herbs, basil and cilantro.
In Oregon, these products would break down like this (using Safeway's prices):
Now let's compare to my producer's market, direct from the receipt:
Knowing that, you can see in the U.S., in Oregon, I was paying almost double for the same produce- except here it's naturally organic and grown locally.
Worse is for example, eggs, milk and simple things like that.
Let's look at a baguette from St. Honoré in Portland, they sell their "baguettes" for $2.25 each baguette, which is around €1.78 here... our baguettes, GOOD quality are only about €0.70 to €0.90 centimes, or about $1.00. Again that's a 50% mark up.
Eggs are a biggin' for me because I hate low quality caged eggs. I mean when you crack them open and the yolk is so bright it's almost glowing. A good quality organic egg is a deep yellow, and tastes amazing. The photo on the left is from the internet. Note the left is store bought, bright yellow = bad condition, the right, deep yellow = good conditions
You can by 6 vegetarian fed, free range eggs for about $1.32. Safeway's mark, "O: Organics" sells a box of 12 for $4.39, which is $2.19 for 6; again almost 50% more.
Milk is especially interesting to me. Here in France, all of our milk is pasteurized and packaged to be able to be outside of the fridge. In the U.S. it has to constantly be refridgerated, and actually, the taste sucks.
Our milk looks like this --->
Comes in 1 liter containers, sells for about €1.08 per liter, which is like 1/4 of a gallon... so about $5.00 a gallon. It seems expensive, but in reality the milk can last longer and doesn't expire as quickly, and it organic and produced locally.
One gallon of Horizon Organic milk runs for about $6.39... are you seeing the difference here?
Worse, foods like cheetoes and terribly over processed frozen foods sell for around $1.05...
How is that possible that a green pepper is the same price as a budget gourmet??
All-in-All, it's something I'm going to sit on for awhile.
a+
But, I was in the position where I really needed to run some errands, and he really needed to work on his mèmoire, besides, he can't hold my hand all the time.
So. Off I went, big girl panties on, Velo'v card securely packed in my backpack, earbuds in ears, hard American rock rattling my brain and off I headed.First stop was BNP Paribas because they are reciprical with my home bank, thus no charges, no fees to pull out cash.
I p0wned that machine. *beep beep beep*, money came out,
I shoved it into my wallet and off I sped to the boulangerie down the street.
Sometimes I am truly amazed by the bread prices in France. I scored a baguette (for Mme Lebegue downstairs) and a banette (a crispy baguette-y bread with what I like to think of as "seuss toe" ends) for only 1.70 €.
Even in dollars, that's like... $2.14, so like a buck a baguette.
It's because everyone eats bread, every day, and because of that the bread is baked fresh, every day, so because of that and the lack of preservatives, it goes bad, every day, thus people end up buying a fresh new baguette, every day.
French weight loss is more than the "french paradox", we walk everywhere to get the meal on our plate; so we really earn our dinner.
Moving on.
Another joy of mine is the "Bail Distribution" across the street which is a "producer's market".
The small local company buys all this beautiful produce from farms in the surrounding area.
After they sell it in their little shop. Unfortunately, there are only two of these, and even more, they are really outside of the inner city. We had luck in this small apartment, it's across the street.
An example of some amazing prices would be the following photo, I'll tell you how much just what's in the picture cost from the market...
Alright, so above we have some produce that's recognizable- green pepper, about 1/2 pound of mushrooms, tomatoes, beautiful ripe peaches, eggplant, piment and some pears... I also got two lovely bunches of fresh herbs, basil and cilantro.
In Oregon, these products would break down like this (using Safeway's prices):
1 Green Pepper - $1.00 (each)
1/2 pound Mushrooms - $2.49
1 pound peaches - $1.99
1 pound tomatoes - $2.18
1 eggplant - $1.52
1 pound pears - $1.59
1 bunch basil - $2.00
1 bunch cilantro - $1.89
1 head garlic - $.90
2 onions - $1.50
GRAND TOTAL OF: $17.06
Now let's compare to my producer's market, direct from the receipt:
1 Green Pepper - €0.49Wow. Well, just to exaggerate the difference, let's look at that visually:
1/2 pound Mushrooms - €0.89
1 pound peaches - €1.21
1 pound tomatoes - €0.90
1 eggplant - €0.57
1 pound pears - €0.88
1 bunch basil - €0.60
1 bunch cilantro - €0.60
1 head garlic - €0.61
2 onions - €0.31
GRAND TOTAL OF: €7.06 and in dollars --> $8.97
Knowing that, you can see in the U.S., in Oregon, I was paying almost double for the same produce- except here it's naturally organic and grown locally.
Worse is for example, eggs, milk and simple things like that.
Let's look at a baguette from St. Honoré in Portland, they sell their "baguettes" for $2.25 each baguette, which is around €1.78 here... our baguettes, GOOD quality are only about €0.70 to €0.90 centimes, or about $1.00. Again that's a 50% mark up.
Eggs are a biggin' for me because I hate low quality caged eggs. I mean when you crack them open and the yolk is so bright it's almost glowing. A good quality organic egg is a deep yellow, and tastes amazing. The photo on the left is from the internet. Note the left is store bought, bright yellow = bad condition, the right, deep yellow = good conditions
You can by 6 vegetarian fed, free range eggs for about $1.32. Safeway's mark, "O: Organics" sells a box of 12 for $4.39, which is $2.19 for 6; again almost 50% more.
Milk is especially interesting to me. Here in France, all of our milk is pasteurized and packaged to be able to be outside of the fridge. In the U.S. it has to constantly be refridgerated, and actually, the taste sucks.
Our milk looks like this --->
Comes in 1 liter containers, sells for about €1.08 per liter, which is like 1/4 of a gallon... so about $5.00 a gallon. It seems expensive, but in reality the milk can last longer and doesn't expire as quickly, and it organic and produced locally.
One gallon of Horizon Organic milk runs for about $6.39... are you seeing the difference here?
Worse, foods like cheetoes and terribly over processed frozen foods sell for around $1.05...
How is that possible that a green pepper is the same price as a budget gourmet??
All-in-All, it's something I'm going to sit on for awhile.
a+
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Solutions for Problems..
I've delegated with myself on some of the issues that I've experienced around Lyon. I've already understood that customer service is something that will not be changed- unless prepackaged with MacDo or Starbucks (even then, no smile, no 'have a nice day').
I think it's best to say that a majority of people I see are bitter; with rightful reason. France has a long complicated history full of angry mobs and destructive behaviors to change things. Right now everyone wants change to happen, but they are afraid to do anything about it.
I can't go too deeply into the topic suffice to say a 10 minute walk alone as a girl showed me the disrespect for people, especially the French people, in France. This contempt has led to other attitude issues that I will brief on:
Old Man Seller in the Market
His leathery skin and set back eyes told me he was around 70 years of age. I could not imagine what events he had seen, but I could tell it was his family's wellbeing to be a produce farmer. He was used to haggling, bartering, people stealing, destruction. I am positive he had experienced the Algerian crisis in the late 50's, and then saw France drag into a new generation with Westernization and Capitalism. Tourists who snap pictures of his façade and his fruit cart, angry poor youth coming to harass and potentially steal what is the equivalent to his week's profit. Once a week at Place Carnot his family and himself pull out their pickings, set it out, sell it and hope people will continue to cruise the markets; despite the higher prices- he assured himself people would see the difference.
My own personal experience was one that was close to disaster. Via representation of Julia Child in the film Julie and Julia I smiled as I cruised the market. I walked with a slight bounce in my step, delirious with both heat and joy for the market. I glanced over the peaches, picked a ripe one and he swooped in with a plastic bag. I placed it in the bag and began gently touching other peaches to decide which I wanted- except I was stopped after I touched the next one.
'Faut pas touché, c'est pas une supermarché. Si tu la touche, tu l'achete.'
Don't touch because it's not a supermarket. Contempt. He obviously lost some business to super markets. If I touch it I buy it? It was strange for me after reading glorious reviews of French markets and the delights in bartering and shopping to hit this wall. It's not the old man's fault, you see, it's the fault of the past 40 years of changing France and the onslaught of consumerism and capitalism. He's just as bitter as I am that things aren't the way they were, because they were once that way.
As I continue on my journey through life in France, I realize much of the portraits and dreams painted by Francophiles and capitalistic travel books are false. It's as if France has been airbrushed and all the disgusting pieces are hidden behind the paint brush. My intent is to be as honest as possible as to show "current France", for I am not naïve, nor do I want to falsify and glorify.
More later.
I think it's best to say that a majority of people I see are bitter; with rightful reason. France has a long complicated history full of angry mobs and destructive behaviors to change things. Right now everyone wants change to happen, but they are afraid to do anything about it.
I can't go too deeply into the topic suffice to say a 10 minute walk alone as a girl showed me the disrespect for people, especially the French people, in France. This contempt has led to other attitude issues that I will brief on:
Old Man Seller in the Market
His leathery skin and set back eyes told me he was around 70 years of age. I could not imagine what events he had seen, but I could tell it was his family's wellbeing to be a produce farmer. He was used to haggling, bartering, people stealing, destruction. I am positive he had experienced the Algerian crisis in the late 50's, and then saw France drag into a new generation with Westernization and Capitalism. Tourists who snap pictures of his façade and his fruit cart, angry poor youth coming to harass and potentially steal what is the equivalent to his week's profit. Once a week at Place Carnot his family and himself pull out their pickings, set it out, sell it and hope people will continue to cruise the markets; despite the higher prices- he assured himself people would see the difference.
My own personal experience was one that was close to disaster. Via representation of Julia Child in the film Julie and Julia I smiled as I cruised the market. I walked with a slight bounce in my step, delirious with both heat and joy for the market. I glanced over the peaches, picked a ripe one and he swooped in with a plastic bag. I placed it in the bag and began gently touching other peaches to decide which I wanted- except I was stopped after I touched the next one.
'Faut pas touché, c'est pas une supermarché. Si tu la touche, tu l'achete.'
Don't touch because it's not a supermarket. Contempt. He obviously lost some business to super markets. If I touch it I buy it? It was strange for me after reading glorious reviews of French markets and the delights in bartering and shopping to hit this wall. It's not the old man's fault, you see, it's the fault of the past 40 years of changing France and the onslaught of consumerism and capitalism. He's just as bitter as I am that things aren't the way they were, because they were once that way.
As I continue on my journey through life in France, I realize much of the portraits and dreams painted by Francophiles and capitalistic travel books are false. It's as if France has been airbrushed and all the disgusting pieces are hidden behind the paint brush. My intent is to be as honest as possible as to show "current France", for I am not naïve, nor do I want to falsify and glorify.
More later.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Life in Lyon..
Since I last posted there have been a series of events that I'll discuss...
In Lyon we have different places around the city that are specialty stores for cheese. You walk into them and they are stinky! Cheese lines the walls in glass casings. The one we visited in particular was one called: L'Art des Choix Fromagerie Polèse or the art of cheese choices. I wanted to take a picture, but I noted that as soon as I smelt a cheese the woman came up to me with typical French woman scowl and proclaimed loudly, "Il faut touche pas!" Which is like saying, "No touching!". I thought to myself: these must be some pretty freakin' awesome cheese if I can't touch or smell them! I bought a cow milk cheese since I'm not quite prepared for the strong goat cheese and for 2.30€ I had a good amount of cheese (more on the cheese later).
First visit to a Winerie (seller)
All around the city there is also places that specialise in wine like American wine shops. Usually these places are expensive and have specialty imports from around the regions of France. By chance I found one near the French equivalent of 'china town'. Once I walked in it was like being transported into 1950's France. The man behind the counter was a short, round man, red around the cheeks with a big smile pasted on his face. The sign posted had a rosé for 1.30€ so we asked about it. He explained kindly that all we had to do was buy a bottle for 2.10€, save the bottle, return with the bottle and he'd refill it for us for only 1.30€. We agreed and took it with us for a picnic. For 2.10€ we got a large 1L bottle of rosé that was actually decent... but I got too drunk off of it to remember not to toss the bottle!
Both the cheese and the wine became our accompaniments with our picnic that night... see picture below:
More info on Flickr..
Picnic Amongst Friends on the Quai..
Picnics in the summertime are one of my most favorite memories in Portland. I've learned I can have the same joys in France... even better because hundreds of people flock to the waterfront to drink, party and beat drums. Bri and I decided to make a birthday picnic for our good friend Chevonne, a fellow Oregonion and American. I was in charge of the main dishes, Bri in charge of heavy lifting and clean up.
Knowing that Bri's mom makes this thing called "tarte aux tomates et mourtarde" I wanted to try my hand at it.
The recipe that I created goes as such:
Tarte is delicious served with a chilled rosé or white wine with a nice fresh salad on the side.
Hangover Food in France
So the night we partied, we didn't come home until 2am, I fell at some point and busted my knee (drunk Velo'ving, not a good idea) and once I got home I was pissy, irritated and went on a tyrade around our 35m apartment. The day after was a terrible hangover, aka (geule de bois in french). My head pounded, my body ached and I was sick to my stomach like crazy. The only cure for that my friends is: lots of water, a walk around Lyon and a good cheap restaurant with fatty dishes. I found my favorite hangover food in France... the "tartiflette" explained by Wikipedia as:
Here's the picture, the glory food is in front of me:
And finally..
Heat, Heat and Heat
Lyon is killing me with the heat, in Portland it gets hot, but the heat here is heavy and rests on your shoulders like a heavy cloak. No escape either. The library has air conditioning, so I blog with the free wifi there... but it's so hot at night Bri and I don't even touch. Lucky for us we are best friends too so it's fun to just enjoy each other's company, but it gets frustrating sweating all night and not from anything fun. This week looks like it's gonna cool down a bit, it rained last night... and it's supposed to rain tomorrow. I hope they are being honest because I can't stand another sweltering day like two days ago.
Until Later...
There are photos on my Flickr, the photostream on the right has tags and information about the photos, so until I write again there are other things to entertain you!
A+
-Sash
- First visit to a fromagerie
- First visit to a "winerie" (more like a "vendeur du vin")
- Picnic amongst friends along the Quai (recipe for Tarte aux Tomates et Moutarde)
- Hangover food in France
- Heat, heat, heat
In Lyon we have different places around the city that are specialty stores for cheese. You walk into them and they are stinky! Cheese lines the walls in glass casings. The one we visited in particular was one called: L'Art des Choix Fromagerie Polèse or the art of cheese choices. I wanted to take a picture, but I noted that as soon as I smelt a cheese the woman came up to me with typical French woman scowl and proclaimed loudly, "Il faut touche pas!" Which is like saying, "No touching!". I thought to myself: these must be some pretty freakin' awesome cheese if I can't touch or smell them! I bought a cow milk cheese since I'm not quite prepared for the strong goat cheese and for 2.30€ I had a good amount of cheese (more on the cheese later).
First visit to a Winerie (seller)
All around the city there is also places that specialise in wine like American wine shops. Usually these places are expensive and have specialty imports from around the regions of France. By chance I found one near the French equivalent of 'china town'. Once I walked in it was like being transported into 1950's France. The man behind the counter was a short, round man, red around the cheeks with a big smile pasted on his face. The sign posted had a rosé for 1.30€ so we asked about it. He explained kindly that all we had to do was buy a bottle for 2.10€, save the bottle, return with the bottle and he'd refill it for us for only 1.30€. We agreed and took it with us for a picnic. For 2.10€ we got a large 1L bottle of rosé that was actually decent... but I got too drunk off of it to remember not to toss the bottle!
Both the cheese and the wine became our accompaniments with our picnic that night... see picture below:
More info on Flickr..
Picnic Amongst Friends on the Quai..
Picnics in the summertime are one of my most favorite memories in Portland. I've learned I can have the same joys in France... even better because hundreds of people flock to the waterfront to drink, party and beat drums. Bri and I decided to make a birthday picnic for our good friend Chevonne, a fellow Oregonion and American. I was in charge of the main dishes, Bri in charge of heavy lifting and clean up.
Knowing that Bri's mom makes this thing called "tarte aux tomates et mourtarde" I wanted to try my hand at it.
The recipe that I created goes as such:
Tartes aux Tomates et Moutarde
(Tomato Tart with Mustard)
Ingredients
°Pastry shell or enough pastry dough for one 'pie'
°3 Large Tomatoes sliced thinly
°About 6 slices swiss cheese (3x5 inches is good, with a width of 1/4 inch)
°1/2 cup mustard with seeds (like a rough mustard, better flavor)
°Herbes aux Provence, or just plain old oregano and basil
°Some olive oil
°Pie Pan
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 375°F or 200°C
- Lay out the pastry dough into the pie pan, if it's a pastry shell with a pie pan attached skip to step 3.
- Poke holes all over the bottom of the crust
- Spread the mustard evenly over the bottom of the crust, if need more add more.
- Place slices of swiss cheese along the bottom on top of mustard, it will resemble a pizza
- Layer tomato slices clockwise starting from the outside edge swirling to the interior until the bottom is covered. If there is extra, continue to layer to cover spots.
- Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil and about 2 tablespoons of the seasoning, plus salt and pepper to taste
- Place in oven, cook uncovered for about 20 minutes, or until the tomatoes are curled on the edges, the outside crust is brown, like the photo below:
Tarte is delicious served with a chilled rosé or white wine with a nice fresh salad on the side.
Hangover Food in France
So the night we partied, we didn't come home until 2am, I fell at some point and busted my knee (drunk Velo'ving, not a good idea) and once I got home I was pissy, irritated and went on a tyrade around our 35m apartment. The day after was a terrible hangover, aka (geule de bois in french). My head pounded, my body ached and I was sick to my stomach like crazy. The only cure for that my friends is: lots of water, a walk around Lyon and a good cheap restaurant with fatty dishes. I found my favorite hangover food in France... the "tartiflette" explained by Wikipedia as:
"Tartiflette is a French dish from the Savoie region. It is made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, cream and lardons."It is also known as God's food to me. The creamy texture and the dense potatoes sucked up the toxicity. I went home after and napped for an hour while sweating out all the nasty alcohol impurities.
Here's the picture, the glory food is in front of me:
And finally..
Heat, Heat and Heat
Lyon is killing me with the heat, in Portland it gets hot, but the heat here is heavy and rests on your shoulders like a heavy cloak. No escape either. The library has air conditioning, so I blog with the free wifi there... but it's so hot at night Bri and I don't even touch. Lucky for us we are best friends too so it's fun to just enjoy each other's company, but it gets frustrating sweating all night and not from anything fun. This week looks like it's gonna cool down a bit, it rained last night... and it's supposed to rain tomorrow. I hope they are being honest because I can't stand another sweltering day like two days ago.
Until Later...
There are photos on my Flickr, the photostream on the right has tags and information about the photos, so until I write again there are other things to entertain you!
A+
-Sash
Thursday, July 8, 2010
French Markets...
I'm trying to create a plan of all the markets to see in Lyon... but DAMN it's a trial.
I'm working through the "les marchés" part of the Lyon city website and I'm realizing how much of a multitude there is. As lame as it sounds I am enjoying putting together a map of the best places to purchase food around the city.
This city is so full of amazing places to go and buy food. For example, there are like 4-5 asian stores I found and I know from living with my mom that that's the best place to buy coconut milk or spring roll wrappers or even wonton wrappers. There are butcher's that have a range of fresh meats, cheese stores with the rank smell of rotting milk, spice shops that are filled with caskets of curries and dried herbs that overwhelm the senses.
I will say simply that I am in heaven because I am a foodie- Lyon is not the place for Americans to go and be "fashionable" nor the place for Americans to try and be "eurotrash" it's the perfect place for people who love to cook and eat!
My map is here:
View Food Shopping & Épiceries around Lyon, France in a larger map
As you can see it's a work in progress but one that is FULL of information. Every icon has a meaning, so below I'll explain a little bit:
<-- Means an asian or middle eastern store, specialized for things like cheap rice, cheap spices (just two days ago I bought 100 grams of curry spice for only 2€!), lots of dried fruits and pita bread.
This one is boulangeries, which in France are abundant. I started adding some but then stopped myself because I realizes there's one every city block (kinda like Starbucks in Portland) --> 
<-- Means a public market, or a "marché" in French. Each icon represents a new market, but the hours are listed within the icon... so every location as different numbers of "stalls" and different hours daily. Most are from 6am to only 1:30pm... so I have to get my butt outta bed for it.
<-- This is the butcher's icon which is where one can buy freshly butchered meats from baby cow to chickens. A bit more expensive but the quality supercedes the price. Amazing.
I'm working through the "les marchés" part of the Lyon city website and I'm realizing how much of a multitude there is. As lame as it sounds I am enjoying putting together a map of the best places to purchase food around the city.
This city is so full of amazing places to go and buy food. For example, there are like 4-5 asian stores I found and I know from living with my mom that that's the best place to buy coconut milk or spring roll wrappers or even wonton wrappers. There are butcher's that have a range of fresh meats, cheese stores with the rank smell of rotting milk, spice shops that are filled with caskets of curries and dried herbs that overwhelm the senses.
I will say simply that I am in heaven because I am a foodie- Lyon is not the place for Americans to go and be "fashionable" nor the place for Americans to try and be "eurotrash" it's the perfect place for people who love to cook and eat!
My map is here:
View Food Shopping & Épiceries around Lyon, France in a larger map
As you can see it's a work in progress but one that is FULL of information. Every icon has a meaning, so below I'll explain a little bit:
<-- Means an asian or middle eastern store, specialized for things like cheap rice, cheap spices (just two days ago I bought 100 grams of curry spice for only 2€!), lots of dried fruits and pita bread.
<-- Means a public market, or a "marché" in French. Each icon represents a new market, but the hours are listed within the icon... so every location as different numbers of "stalls" and different hours daily. Most are from 6am to only 1:30pm... so I have to get my butt outta bed for it.
This one is charcuteries... we don't have this in America so basically it's like a little shop specializing in dried or fresh pork products- think pepperoni of the Gods type thing. There's also specialized "patés" and such, often eaten before the main dish in France.. Lyon is known for it's usage of pork.
The other icons are self explanatory, the alcoholic beverage representing a wine shop... the cheese representing a cheese shop- the simplified icon of the jug and apple representing the American style super market.
Incredibly the abundance of markets creates something to see, touch and smell every day.
In other news I almost got scammed when I was looking for apartments in Lyon. These dudes are really sneaky... the link is here: Scammy Apartment.
Basically it's supposedly this grandiose apartment with a beautiful balcony and all the lovely adornments and a nice kitchen. It's supposed to be on "Rue de Seze" which is up near the Parc. It's only 650€ a month! I was so excited so I emailed... and the email I got back was asking for more personal information... no harm in giving my name and number!... but then.. the next response was really weird.
It said we could see it on Saturday, but with a lawyer. Brian said the French was terrible and it was a total scam, sure enough we googled some of the key phrases and it turned out.. yup. Scam.
No worries though because we have the apartment that I wanted in the bag and will be signing the contract on Monday...
Still. In France those scammers are goooood.
Today we're going to go to a little wine store that I saw one day by chance that listed a wine for 1.30€... heck yes! Then we'll be heading home to pack a picnic and eat at "Parc de la Tête D'or" aka "Park of the Golden Head". On the way we'll grab a crusty baguette and a gooey cheese to go along with our fresh chicken salad- it'll be a good night.
We'll take some pictures today so we can share them... :)
I love France.
Tags:
Europe,
Expatriate,
Foodie,
France,
French Food,
Humor,
Life in Lyon,
Loving Life,
Lyon,
Markets in France,
Travel,
Vie Gourmande
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