Midnight in Lyon..

It's been one year and a half that I've lived in Lyon, and I realized recently that I've never discovered or lived in Lyon alone!

Bri is in Paris starting his new job and apartment hunting, I'm stuck in Lyon for my Master's program until the beginning of February... and so yesterday I decided to go and venture around my city.

I'd never been to the Musée Gadagne since I moved to Lyon, but I mean a free entrance to a museum for a Lyon Gastronomie display?  I couldn't resist.  I packed a compote and a bottle of water, my journal and my walking boots; off I was on my very own to a Lyonnais museum!

Les Toques Blanches de Lyon (in my garden!)

It was lovely to walk through the city at my own pace, in silence, listening to the people around me.  It was in the actual exhibit that I was enamoured, posters of food, photos of the famous Cuisiniers and Cuisinières, I looked at every single detailed menu, watched every black and white video.  The exhibit is not that impressive, in regards to actual 'gastronomy', but there were a few things I picked up on and tucked away in my journal:

When visiting the musée Gadagne, I can almost imagine myself with the famous Gourmands of Lyon.  A sort of "Midnight in Lyon", instead of the 'high time' with artists and painters in Paris, it is a Golden Age of eating and gourmandises.  Lyon was for foodies what Paris was for artists... while artists and writers were indulging in social abnormalities, the foodies were just doing what they do best... eating!

Even though Julia Child mentions that Paris was an amazing culinary hot-spot, even the great Curnosky wrote, Lyon est la capitale mondiale de gastronomie.  Can't argue with the Prince of Gourmand!

La Mère Brazier

I was amazed at the culinary freedom of the 1920's and 1930's and longed to jetset back in time to sit at a table with Mère Brazier, Mère Fillioux and Curnosky...

What's more incredible is the feminism so prevalent in this era- why do I say this?  Because women truly were the creators of the Lyon Gastronomy!  I stared at the photos, imagining the times... there was respect to these women because they could cook.  These women, the lost generation of the culinary world in Lyon were the epitomy of feminism.  Enormous amounts of respect were doted upon their culinary confections, and they remain important and engrained in Lyon history!

So potentially in France... if you can cook you can earn respect?

But what is up with this whole Lyon cuisine?  What was amazing was the distinctive contrast between the Bourgeois dishes (Brasserie Georges, etc) and the typical Bouchon (la Mère Jean) also known as La Cuisine Guignolesque which was for the hard workers.  One of the videos in the museum shows a report wandering around and asking locals:

Reporter:  Pensez-vous d'être un gourmand?

Man 1: Tout à fait que oui, nous sommes des plus grandes gourmands ici à Lyon... on adore les choses bonnes à manger, les cochonnailles, la viande... du vin.. du fromage...

Report: (Same question)

Older Woman: Mais oui!  Je suis une gourmande.. j'adore à manger!

I am not a personal fan of Bocuse... who has taken the idea of being a Foodie and capitalised it until it's just a bunch of carbon-copy restaurants with little or no creativity.  I love the simple, local, bouchons... with a pot du vins and a tender quenelle.

Les Toques Blanches.. les mères de Lyon.. Oh la la!

This move is going to be tough.

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New Year's Eve + Bri's Depart

It's 2012 and I am only reminded of 2010 when Bri and I were separated for 8 months while I finished my Undergraduate in Oregon.  It was a ridiculously difficult time and as I kissed him goodbye today all the feelings of the 'goodbyes' and the 'see you soons' came rushing back like a dam refilling with water.

I have plenty to do, plenty to study for, plenty to prepare for... but I can only think that I'll be living off of 'sad person soup' for the next few days (I made a giant pot yesterday) and studying on my own.

To remember the good times I have to talk about my New Year's Eve!  It is the 3rd New Year's Eve in France and my 4th in Europe... and it was a great celebration.

Normally we spend it tucked away in Genas with the parents, a little 'coupette' of Champagne and a fabulous dinner.  This year, considering Bri would be leaving, we decided to spend some time with his close friends and welcome the new year with tons of food and smiling faces.

Me, Olivier (Bri's closest friend), and I THINK Clement?

As we all spoke in French and they ooed and awed over my "good french", I equally complemented their Frenglish and we chined and chined until we were so drunk we could barely walk straight.

Two Hostesses: Tiphane and her sister!

It was a shared cost meal, and without saying we truly enjoyed the night with close friends.

Me, Bri and Olivier... Bri was very happy!

The most difficult of course, was the next day.  A bit of a hangover, a large lunch... yikes.

2012 came and passed, then the sad day of Bri's departure was fast arriving.  As would any 'victim' I prepared him a 'last meal' upon request.

"Feuilleté des Escargots"

Porc Roti (cocotte) and Gratin Daupinois

Chocolate Lava Cake

Bri leaves.... :(

So, he left yesterday morning on the 10am train to Paris... and now I have to wait... in the mean time- hair appointment on Thursday!  Partiel exams for two weeks! Plan to go and get my Carte de Séjour (yuck).  There is literally so much to do, it feels like time in Lyon is already slipping through my fingers...

So here it goes, 2012!

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House Hunter's International Tryout Video

Today (10:30pm Central time) HGTV aired our show we filmed in September 2011.

For those who don't have cable, here was our video we sent in to get selected:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5Yqxub5aHA&feature=youtu.be

Vive la France!!

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Not so Green Lyon

When I was living in Portland I always considered Europe to be this magical place- I was told by an exchange student that lived with us when I was 16 that Public Transportation was abundant, recycling not simply a concept but a way of life.

I had a fabulous presentation in my Master's program late Friday afternoon from a renowed Quebecian nature lover and guest teacher.  Fabien Durif flew in from his corner of Canada, his slightly twanging Quebecois accent and a slew of ideas my fellow collegues had never heard.

Movement Vert
Green Washing
Consommation Responsable
Ecotourism
Organics

After saying 'Vert' about 20 times someone in the class finally raised his hand and inquired, "Messieur, qu'est-ce que c'est cette chose verte que vous parlez?" The teacher stopped short, and explained briefly.  Of course this movement doesn't EXIST in France, it's simply a way of life... or is it?

Portland was always sort of top when it came to the Green Movement of the early 2000's, we had electric busses, a sort of recycling system that was foreward-moving.  I was taught how to maintain a compost in my apartment when I moved off by myself at 19, a lovely plastic box that magically transformed my waste into useable plant dirt.

Bri made me throw this away when he moved in with me May of 2009, he said it was disturbing to sleep in the apartment knowing there were worms in a vox- well to each his own.

You can imagine my shock when I moved to Lyon and was struck by a city that knew little of recycling or even how to lighten the carbon footprint.

Now, Europe, specifically Lyon, has their own methods and styles of what they call 'green', or in French éco.  I am constantly being pointed out that the Americans leave the water running during showers, or our wasteful use of electricity when we leave the house.

So in what ways does Lyon recycle and in what ways really need to be improved?


What They Do Well:

Organic Produce

Tuesday through Sunday are the market days, vendors, farmers and local producers haul out their natural and edible goods for us to purchase at a normal price.  The positive is that many of these producers are naturally organic or bio and leave us with a fabulous, non-treated product.

Recycling
An automatic response when I see someone throwing away a carboard box or can is, That is recyclable! My mother had ingrained it into my head, she would fish out any paper I would throw away and I was disgusted... of course now 7 years later I do the same.  In Lyon we have a recycling system in our apartment building, nice because you can toss all recyclables together into a giant container... the issue?

Showering in France
Water is truly seen as a resource in the eyes of a European so much so that when showering we have a five step process:

1. Turn water on, get water all over
2. Turn water off
3. Lather up with soap while water is off
4. Turn water on
5. Rinse

Usually the water only remains on for a total of 7 minutes, unlike our 20-30 minute showers in the United States.  This is the argument from most French people when I mention the 'green'ness of Americans, they can't see how we are green if we are so wasteful with a resource.  They are right.

The next is the consumption of electricity,

Lights Out
Bri was appalled at our waste of electricity in the US, and I see why.  In France we shut everything off in the evening, when we leave the house, when we are not in a room.  Electricity is very expensive so wasting it tends to not even be an option.  It's almost an anal-rententive reaction, every time you leave a room switch it off.  Eventually, it becomes ingrained into your mentality and you feel strange if a light is on in a room and no one is in it.

Velo'v System
Probably one of the greastest innovations in Europe, the Velo'v system, which originated in Lyon, has revolutionized public transportation by facilitating a bike-share system that is affordable and convenient for users.  For a fee of 15€ a year, a user has 30 minutes each trajet and the possibility to return at any depot.  Still waiting for an effective system like this in Portland.

Public Transportation
Europe is truly the master of public transport, never have I had an issue with a bus or a tramway or even an underground subway.  Fabulous system, mediocre priced... again much more adept to the green movement than in US.

To Be Improved:

Recycling
These containers are non-existant around the city.  When you drink a disposable coffee cup you have no choice but to toss in a normal trash can on the street.  There are more and more "dual trash cans" with the choice between yellow and green (yellow recyclable, green waste) but many people don't use this system effectively.

Organic Produce
Like in America, there has been this movement for Bio and Green Washing; this movement has left many store brands to stick a green label on the product without really even having proof... this label guarantees an augmentation of price between 10-25% above market price and... well needless to say it's not truly the concept of the green movement.

Composting
There is a non-existent system of composting in France that is left to be improved, while in San Francisco there are canisters of composting buckets that accepts any organic material to be composted, in Lyon I have found no way to get rid of material of this sort.

Over-all Lyon is ahead, but not the best in Europe... in fact I see piles of plastic cups sitting around in canisters and no composting... but I think the Green Fever is going to catch on and it won't be just a fad. 

Adventures in the Metro

Living in a large European city teaches you many different things such as: get used to that 15 minute walk with heavy groceries, or, don't make eye contact with that scraggly looking group of youth, or even, be friends with your butcher.


The one thing I still haven't mastered since my year and a half in Lyon is What To Do On the Métro.

Public transportation is inevitable, even if I wanted to avoid the bus or the underground subway line I couldn't!  You see, even with the fabulous bike share system and the potential to walk anywhere with my two feet- the métro is juste faster and easier.

Or is it?

In Lyon there are 4 lines of the underground Métro system, 2 lines of forniculars, 4 lines of over-ground tramway system, a multitude of electric buses and and ever more selection of bus lines.  All information is available from the TCL Website.

Today's focus will be: The Underground Métro:

Line A, or the RED LINE goes from Perrache in the center to Vaulx-en-Valin la Soie (or whatever on the spelling) out on the East side of Lyon.  This line utilizes the typical system, a dude sitting and driving it.  However, this also causes some issues in regards to timing. The driver will sometimes wait at a stop, more than necessarily, probably picking his French teeth or laughing his French laugh.  This wait makes us all uncomfortable, and everyone begins to be aware of time passing- watches are checked ever 20 seconds, feet start tapping with impatience...

Line B, or the BLUE LINE goes from Stade de Gerland to Charpennes.  Basically a great line to avoid unless being transferred to the Centre Commercial de la Part-Dieu which is necessary when taking a train, doing Christmas shopping.. or even going to a Football Match (Stade de Gerland).

Line C, or the ORANGE LINE (really looks yellow, but I'm not picky) goes from Hôtel de Ville to La Croix Rousse.  It's a really odd métro line, why do I say this?  Because it resembles a sort of fornicular or cable car.  Everything is in a sort of slanted angle, when on the métro you have to do a sort off lean forward in order to not fall on your neighbor.  La Croix Rousse is up on a hill, so logic tells you the Métro is basically climbing a hill.  Same as the RED LINE, the ORANGE LINE has a manual driver which switches every end stop, and takes at least 7 minutes to start up.  But, a lot easier to take the métro than walk up the giant hills of the Croix Rousse.

Line D, or the GREEN LINE, goes from Gare de Vaise to Gare de Vénissieux.  Neither of the Gares is a nice place to be, so at my advice I use the Green line to get closer to Ikea (in St. Priest), get to Vieux Lyon... and that's about it.  Oh, word to the wise:  This line is a-u-t-o-m-a-t-e-d!  This means there is like a 5 minute passing period, if it's at the stop... RUN!  Once the beeping starts, you better jump into the train otherwise you will be waiting an efficient 3 minutes for the next one.

What to Do On the Métro, and What NOT To Do
Getting on the métro can be a terrible experience for those unprepared.  Between 4PM and 6PM every day there is a sudden flux of individuals all pressing to get home for dinner.  Baguettes stick people in the bum, bags are shoved into your chest, and with the métros having a limit of people- well that disappears.  If you want to catch a métro you must go in elbows first. Don't be afraid to push and jump into the craziness!  So:

Rule #1:  Elbows First.

Then you're on the métro, you have some posters glued along the side panels, lovely flourescent lights lining the ceiling.  Most likely a smelly homeless man shoved away in the corner, smelling grotesquely like an ogre.  There will probably be a group of hoodlums hanging in the corner and shouting to each other.  Now the question is, where to go?  If you have enough room to elbow through to a safe spot... In this case:

Rule #2: Find the Grandma.

So you've successfully gotten into the métro, situated yourself next to Grandma.  One thing is clear from this moment,

Rule #3: Look Anywhere but Other People's Eyes, AKA Avoid Eye Contact

Look any where else, that poster you've read a million times, your iPhone game, your hang nails.  Many French people will occupy themselves by chewing on their nails- if you want to avoid a terrible habit simple count the lines in the ceiling.  It is difficult to find things to do on the métro, but everyone is in the same position.

Looking around, you'll notice how hard everyone is trying to look anywhere but in someone's eyes.  On the métro, even though you're practically in your neighbor, it's as if we don't really exist in the same place.

Now, your stop is arriving...

Rule #4: Elbows Out to Exit the Métro

Don't let them French people get you stuck, just shout clearly, "excusez-MOI!" and elbow them.

Or you could always just get a year pass to Velo'V and bike it!

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Mastering the Art of the French Master's Degree

First off, I should probably explain what is going on at the moment and why I disappeared for about a month.

I've been getting many helpful comments and nice things being said about me but I barely have had a moment to log on and to even say THANKS!

September of this year I officially started a Master's degree in International Business Management in Lyon.  In order to create more of a challenge I decided, given the choice between two programs, to go with the program entirely in French.  Even better I decided to pick the intensive Master 2 Professional option which meant about 32 hours of classes a week.  Oh, let's just add that I was working, as well, around 18.5 hours a week at Wallstreet Institute.

You can imagine my typical day, as detailed in my last blog post.

Well, there truly is an art to the French Masters, even an art to studying in France.  It started with the intensity of the courses for me and wounded up in a climatic end of term finals where I about ripped out my hair from stress.

Shall we?

What Happens in Class
After a sleepless night and nightmares where I lost all ability to communicate in French, I arrived in my Master's class with my college-ruled American notebook and a single pen.  As I settled into the uncomfortable plastic seats and nodded around the class, practically whispering, bonjour, I noticed immediately that I was not well prepared.  Three girls glimpsed over my 'school materials' and then pulled out their own lumpy pencil bag, deftly picking out three different colors of pens, a ruler and either white sheets of paper or lined paper that gave me a headache to look at.

I scoffed to myself, what a bunch of overachievers, until I noticed even the laziest looking guy in my class had at least 2 colors and a ruler laid out in front of him.  My throat began to become dry as I suddenly felt like that dumb American foreigner and quickly reached into my bag to see if I had another color of pen.

Before I could find the second color, the teacher came exploding through the door, "Bonjour classe, donc, je suis veille France et donc je ne supporterai pas les ordinateurs, téléphone portables ni les SMS" I sighed quietly as I glanced over to see if I was supposed to start noting or what, she continued, "Et je n'enverrai pas les Power Points donc prennez bien vos notes" Well merde at that one.  I was at least relying on some back support in my American in France learning struggle, but I prepared my hand for the noting battle.

Looking back on my notes for that day I almost feel pity for myself, I had tried to note as fast as possible, but got lost in the dialogue, the questions my colleagues posed, the language itself.  Many of the passages said things like, "Une entreprise ????  donc important de ???" Where I was meant to miraculously fill in the blanks at home and try to get the sense.

I noted as the others used abbreviations, multicolors to change the theme and rulers to create perfectly level lines.  The precision was utterly disgusting but yet somehow exciting at the same time, I find the French people to be, in my opinion, the most apt to OCD in the world.  I also suddenly had an urge to use those weird multi lined bloc notes to organize and create some absolute precision in my writing.

Oh, and, the teacher's do not really want your opinion, even though they ask.  If you have the balls to answer, be prepared to be grilled on the topic until you turn a beet red in frustration and shrivel into your shirt.  They are talking at you, the underling, and you must simply note what they say.

Also, no homework. Everything is based on tests.

So advice for those wanting to pursue a degree in France?

• Let go of the College Ruled paper, embrace the Bloc Notes
• If possible, bring a computer
• If possible, bring a charger
• Don't eat during class, otherwise you will here some rampant mumblings about the American stereotype
• 3 colors of pens
• A ruler for lovely lines
• LABEL LABEL LABEL (otherwise you'll end up like me and freaking out during dead week)
• Buy a classeur to organize your notes
• Ask if the teacher sends the slides

Team Work in France

I am lucky enough the have the experience to be in a class with 85% French people.  The only foreigners are myself, a girl from China, from Cambodia and from Spain.  In a class of 25 people, we are almost forced to work in a team with at least 2 Frenchies.

My first experience in a team was, well, lost in translation.  In the States I was the queen of leadership and team organization, toujours type A personality.  The biggest challenge was suddenly being thrown with 3 Frenchies for 3 hours to create a team presentation and project.

Their version?  Shout, debate and argue until we are exhausted enough to drag ourselves to get a coffee, drag ourselves back and argue once again until we vomit some form of work.  Luckily, I was able to organize the team enough to create an agenda, minimalize the arguing and come home with a freakin' awesome grade for my team.  Oh, if ever curious about grades, I wrote a blog on that: Grading in France, and we received an 18/20, because 20/20 only God can get, and 19/20 only teachers can get so we were 3rd.

Advice?

• Don't be afraid to Be American, make an Agenda and stick to it, even if they follow some random chemins of conversation
• Speak slow and deliberate, even if they are shouting and speaking quickly
• Understand the topic before you try and traite it

Les Partiels aka Final Exams

I got the handle on the note-taking during classes enough to start high-lighting and multi-color pen using to my heart's content.  I, however, was not prepared for the final exams.  As a girl in class warned me, Prépares-toi, j'ai reçu un 3/20 dans un examen l'année dérnière.  I gasped at that revelation and proceeded to memorize, and rememorize the material in order to simply barf it back up during the tests.

With my book size of notes I memorized facts, dates, chemins, charts, graphs, exhaustive explanations on Theories of Economics.  In French.  When the day of the test came it was like this:

1. Read this 20 page case
2. Analyse the case
3. Regurgitate any relevant information on these University marked Sheets
1. IN PEN
2. NEVER IN PENCIL
4. You have 2 hours

Oh my goodness.  By the end of the week and 6 final exams (12 hours of writing in 3 days) my hand was literally cramping, my vision was blurry and I broke down crying on the Friday.

Did it pay off? Sure, the first exam I received back was 13/20, knowing the highest grade was 15.5... so I was not a dummy American who couldn't speak French!

Advice:

• Study constantly throughout the term
• Record classes and relisten to difficult sessions (I relistened to the last two sessions)
• Use black or blue ink, white out for mistakes
• Use scrap paper to write thoughts and nice paper to rewrite
• For a week before the exams restrain from English
• GET SLEEP, staying up all night to study will not guarantee a better grade

So Now What?

Well, now, Wallstreet Institute is done, my last day, sadly, was last week.  I continue my tutoring, hoewever, pulling in an average of 8 students a week on top of classes I am taking.  I write my notes, retype my notes and relisten to classes.  My goals are to get the highest grade on one of the tests during the term, but it's only an over-achiever American hope of mine.

Next step is an Internship.   Oh LORD!

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Marché des Animaux: Place Carnot

Oh my goodness, by surfing about the net I came across some information that absolutely tickles my fancy- a live animal market in the center of the city!!

Place Carnot hosts a weekly market specialized in domestic pets every Sunday from 8h to 12h.  This is going to have to be a place I must visit.  Marchés in France are often streeets lined with cars or table tops and covered in product, I can only imagine a city block filled with cute kittens (why must you be allergic Bri, why!?) and puppies.  A Google Search of marché des chiens turned up photos of cooked up dogs in public markets in the East- somehow not exactly what I was looking for.

I just had no idea that there was a special marché dedicated to the cute baby animals that I haven't seen in ages!  I don't even know where to find a Pet Store in Lyon!

A search on the Bibliothèque de Lyon however turned up some photos from the turn of the century, where the marché was still active!

*note: there are also several more old photos of interest on this site. If you ever have a minute to scan through.



I've thought about getting a bunny, but I actually like rabbit meat so I think it's be strange to keep an animal I tend to eat.  Hamsters and rats are overdone, I've had like 5 in my life, plus Bri thinks keeping small rodent type animals is just plain wrong.

I guess it's just gonna have to wait a few years until we have a big enough house for a dog!

All the same.  Place Carnot, Sundays from 8am to 12pm?  I am so there.

Keep posted for one final post before I head off for vacation- then I'll be trying to post while in Spain... although that tends to be a feat in it's own.  Tapas, sangria, cava... ohh yeah.

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Les Nuits des Fourvière

I don't think there exists such an experience as enjoying a live show in an ancient Roman gladiator site.  Bri surprised me a month or so ago with tickets to see The Do, King Charles and Two Door Cinema Club during Les Nuits des Fourvière in July.  It had been over 3 years since my last real concert and I was absolutely excited for the experience!

What is Les Nuits des Fourvière
Le Basilisque de Fourvière is that fabulous looking church that over looks the city.  It was built in the late 1800's to celebrate the Virgin Mary and thank the Gods that they didn't die during a horrific plague in the 19th century.  Structured in the typical Catholic fashion the church is like a piece of religion over looking the entire city.  Beautifully kept by the city, the city decides to put on a concert every year in the surrounding area.  Not just a single concert but a summer long event in which several very famous bands come to Lyon to play their songs.

The Nuits usually starts beginning of the summer and continues through August, tickets go fast so it's important to buy in advance for a band that is very popular.  The largest bands play in the ancient Roman amphitheatre a few hundred feet from the Basilisque.

The Experience
Being in an Ancient Roman site where gladiators and theatre shows were put on is a true rarity.  There are few words to describe the experience, all these hundreds of people squished together, overlooking the city of Lyon with this insane sound quality reverbing around.  Here's our video of the show we went to:



Just to say: Incredible experience.

Definitely recommended if you plan to move to Lyon, but remember tickets go quickly!

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For the Ladies: The Gyneco

I finally did it, that most uncomfortable and dreadful thing that only a slew of message boards frightened me into turning around and never looking back.

About 4 months ago I decided, after pressure from my French mother, to book an appointment with a Gyneco in France.  A quick search online on exasperated the fear I had.  Some of my favorite lines that I read from reviews and message boards,

Elle a même pas lavé ses mains ou changé le drap sur le lit.  Ce n'était pas propre... quel horreur! = She didn't even wash her hands or changed the sheet on the table.  It was not clearn... what a horror!

J'avais saignement pendant trois jours de ma visite. = I was bleeding for 3 days after my visit.

And the scariest most horrific one was from a fellow blogger:

You undress in front of your doctor, you walk around the room naked while you’re doctor is there, you climb up on the table naked and there are no gowns or towels to cover anything, and you get dressed again with your doctor watching. - American in France

Naked?  Just walking around feeling the breeze on my bits?  I didn't think I could handle it so I put the task at my French mother to find me a good one.  After about a week she txted me:

J'ai demandé aux mes collègues, elles m'ont donné le nom "Lavagna"

Like lasagna, I could handle that.

I called in the beginning of May, and unfortunately, Mme Lavagna was booked until July.  I had a date set, July 21, which was yesterday.

Now I totally forgot about the visit, placed it a million miles away in the back of my mind so I wouldn't have to recall the millions of posts about bleeding for days, nakedness and awkward dirty clinics.  Except one can only forget for so long until it's the day off and you're on the bus hypervenilating and using google translate to figure out key phrases so you don't look like an idiot.

Sexuellement active
Maladies transmettre sexuellement
Les pilules

What was I doing?  Turn this bus around!

Of course, I didn't jump out the window, instead I actually went.  Hidden on the street was 168, I buzzed myself in and wandered upstairs.  A beep of the button and the receptionist was there, cheery and taking my information.  How tall am I? Is this my first time? Etc.

10 minutes of me fidgeting around in my seat later an older woman in jeans and a nice long sleeve shirt popped out and shook my hand.  Mme Lavagna, herself.  I was put off by her fashion, high heels and the fact she has a manicure.. but hey gynecos can look good too.

Yes, I had to get stark naked.  No it was not in front of her, she had a nice covered area where I could undress, but I was still de-clothed and strewn on with a light in my nether regions.  It was still unnerving that I was in what felt like someone's apartment, but she did have the equipment and a private room that felt like a doctor's office at home.

Is it ever a joy ride going to the gyneco? No.  But for 50 bucks in France I expected royal treatment, it wasn't the worse of stories, it was ok.  I felt like she was sort of rushing me out of the clinic and kind of procedurally doing things.  Screw small talk, get undressed, get on the table, 10 minutes and some pain later, get dressed, pay.

She did; however, ensure my prescription for birth control was covered by insurance and that the visit was also covered.

15 minutes later I was on the street.

So now I have to find a dentist.

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Advice: Things to Know When Coming to France

I have been compiling a list mentally since I've moved to France regarding the differences and the things I must ABSOLUTELY avoid or DO while living in France.  It's sad, because many Americans who come overseas disregard it, and assume that Lyon is an extension of the States (it is most definitely NOT).  I can't count the countless times my French friends look disgustingly at Americans behaving rude or 'oddly' because they simply don't know how to behave differently.

DO
-Understand the difference between TU and VOUS
-Get used to putting your bread on the table, not on your plate
-Get some basic French phrases in your pocket
-Get ready to gain 10 lbs
-Compliment the host/hostess when invited to dinner
-Bring a GIFT when invited to dinner
-Learn how to use your knife and fork, 90 percent of French people use BOTH during dinner
-Finish your entire plate at dinner, there are no doggy bags
-Ask market vendors for what you would like
-Sauce your plate- mean sop up every piece with your bread.  A finished plate is a compliment.  Unfinished means you didn't like it that much.

DON'T
-Ask French women if they shave
-Be ignorant when someone proposes you try something new (i.e. forest mushrooms, Roquefort cheese)
-Assume everyone speaks english, because they don't
-Leave a tip, it makes you stick out as THE TOURIST
-Curse in French around people you don't know
-Ask for butter for your bread
-Ask for a 'Doggy Bag' at a restaurant
-Touch the produce at a market, unless the vendor says you can (they give you a basket and tell you to go at it)
-Make a face when someone mentions 'escargots', 'tripes', or 'pieds de cochons'.  They think the same thing about Pumpkin Pie and Sweet Potato Casserole with marshmallows.
-Serve yourself wine, the host/hostess serves this.

And yes, I made lots of mistakes.. it's only human.

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Story Time: Trip to the Salon

It took me one year and two months to build up the courage to go to a hair salon in France.  I had envisioned total destruction to my hair, as I had read a multitude of angry bloggers discussing their Bad Hair Experiences.  I was almost ready in May when I took a stroll with a good friend of mine from Sweden.  Her hair was tied up, and she mentioned she had recently got it cut.  When she took it down it was horrific.  The layers were mismatched, areas in the back were chunky and short... I put off the cutting until I saw a recent photo of myself and my blah hair:

I had went to a barbeque of a good friend, and after the photos came out I was a bit shocked.  My hair had become shaggy, worse the ends were torn up and abimés. It was officially time to get a hair cut.












The next logical step was to find a salon.  I knew I couldn't rely on them speaking English so I reviewed a blog post I had written a few months prior.  It discussed the typical words we use in the salon.  Alongside this I printed up some color photos to show what I wanted and prepared over a week for the cut.

I ended up calling a salon in the 6ème called, Lounge Cut.  Recommended by the Petit Paumé I was fully aware of the positive reviews of this place.  I called to take a reservation, and got in less than a week.

I was even more excited when I got there, and saw it was a nice little salon, with only 3 chairs for cutting, no giant hair factory.

I showed my photos and hashed through my French.  When I mentioned it had been over a year from my last cut; the coiffeuse was shocked.  She took about 3 inches of hair and said, "On doit les couper, si tu voudrais, car ils sont tellement abimés" I understood that one.  We should cut this much because I failed to respect my hair and I had split ends up the HIZZY.







I agreed.

The best part of Lounge Cut, is they cut it dry, like in many salons in the states.  She washed after, massaged my head, and then spent another 40 minutes styling.  I think next time I'll skip the 'brushing', but it did make my hair feel super soft.  She used scissors, not razors, unlike many French stylists.






Lei Wei, my stylist, also told me that there are a lot of English clients, and that Mark, another stylist can speak English.  So. Any one looking to get their hair cut by an English speaker, check out Lounge Cut and see Mark.  Lei Wei can also speak English, but she is better at understanding.


I felt great.  I promised to come back every 3 months, or 6 months maxi as she told me.

And the results, of my first cut in France?

I am happy.  It's definitely much more comfy for summer, I was smothering in my hair.

My Little Lyon

Ah the joy it was when I came across the application for my iPhone My Little Lyon.  Simple interface, cute images, the goal?  Describes things to do around Lyon during these quiet summer months.  It seems like there is little to do, especially when you want to watch your money- but the app has actually lead me into some interesting ideas.

Even better?  The application is also a website available online for non iPhone users: http://www.mylittle.fr/mylittlelyon/

Every day there is a nouveau idée of what to do around the city.  An example?  Picnic from a specialty epicerie who makes a menu of entrée/plat/dessert for the low sum of 9€.


Check out the site to see even more, the best deal that I found on there yet is the free tour of la croix russe told by two actors/comediens.

Called, les visites d'idées, the two gents tell a 'veritable subjective truth' of the Croix Russe.  The best part?  It's absolutely free.  Here is their site: http://www.visitesdidees.blogspot.com/

Bri and I plan to go on the 8th of July, it's going to be great for a Friday night... and because they do it for free it will be absolutely fabulous for our pockets.

My Little Lyon is a fabulous tool for those who live in Lyon and claim, there's nothing to do! Sometimes it just takes a bit of hunting and searching.

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Jean Pierre: Runner of the Rhône

If you are a resident of Lyon, you've seen him... for me it was a warm summer evening in 2010, and we were sipping on chilled rosé and eating charcuterie atop baguettes smothered in butter.  It was starting to turn dark over the horizon, the mouches were zipping around and our conversation had hit a silent lull.  From the distance, I could hear a rampage of cheering and clapping.  We lazily turned our heads towards the noise and saw it... fast as a flash the Old Man Runner.  Probably in his late 50's, maybe even his early 60's... he was running in bright orange shorts and a tight white tanktop.

He clearly showed defined runner's muscles.  As he ran by our picnic spot, the crowds went wild.. they cheered, shouted, one ado even jumped up, inspired, running beside him and trying to have a conversation.  Failed.  He slows down, unable to keep pace and cheers back to his friends, divulging the story.

I didn't understand what it was.. and I didn't until another year later.  It was May, last month, we decided to profit in the hot weather and have another picnic amongst friends.  Sure enough, the shouting started again.  I turned around, and spotted him once again... same jogging shorts, same tank top.  I smiled, because I finally knew I had reached the point Lyon was my second home.  This time I cheered, I whistled, I shouted my joy... and off he dashed.





Jean-Pierre the Runner of the Rhône, papy joggeur.  If you ever go to Lyon... go to les berges take in the sight and wave to Jean-Pierre...

http://ma-tvideo.france2.fr/channel/iLyROoafY2Qr.html

Weekend Event: Le Pardon des Mariniers

If you are from any port-city, like myself, the summertime always marks the beginning of a few things :

• summertime weather
• ability to wear shorts
• slew of sailors coming in for the awesome festival known as FLEET WEEK in my mother tongue.

How joyous was I when I unlocked my boite de lettre and out popped a flyer that stated, “Le Pardon des Mariniers”, or the forgiving of sailors. I could only assume, as Lyon is also a port city, that this meant Fleet Week!

Well. It does. It apparently is a yearly event put on by Lyon in the 2ème arrondissment and celebrates the mariniers, the sailors. It’s only this weekend, so with the beautiful weather, hot sailors in outfits and some time to kill why not check out the weekend events??

First off, today, starting at 2pm, there will be the following (all along the Quai Rambaud, next to Perrache), look at the map in regards to WHERE exactly the find the events:

(1) 2PM - Welcoming Ceremony at 21 Quai Rambaud

(2) 8:30pm to 1:00am – Sailor’s Ball… also at 21 Quai Rambaud.. if you can find a sailor alone, you could get invited!

Now onto the SUNDAY events…

In the Morning (Specific Agenda)…

(1) 9:30am – Competition for boat decorating.

(1) 10:00am – Mass (catholic service) by Father Gréa, accompanied by the Choir of Saint Blandine.

(1) 11:00am – Blessing of the boats along the quai.

(1) 12:00 pm – ‘verre d’amité’ or a glass of friendship by the Mayor of the 2ème.

In the Afternoon…

(5) 12:30pm – Lunch under the trees, drink and barbeque for 6-13€. PLUS Barbarian organs by Jean-Marie Nicollet.

(4) 2:00pm – Race of wherries (little boats) presented by Association of Battalion Families

(4) 2:30pm – Demonstration of the joutes or long boats that joust, resembling Viking boats. Accompanied by music presented by La Barquette de Givors.

(4) 4:00pm – Demonstration of rescue dogs.

(2) 4:00pm to 6:30pm– A presentation by the Folk Lore group, Estrelas douradas, of the 6ème.

(1 & 9) 4:30pm/5:30pm – Presentation (like a fashion show) of the musical decorated boats presented by Grand Lyon.

Offered ALL DAY LONG…

(1) Commented visit of the Chapel Boat “Le Lien”

(2) Wooden toy creation by “Billy the Kit”

• Fun area and toys for children.
• Reduction in prices for the decoration of the boats

(6) Large commercial boats and artisanal floats

• 3 free shows with the famous Lyonnais Guignols.

(7) Discover the Canoeing/Kayaking and initiation of Baby Ski for 4/13 years old, free, please bring a swimsuit.

(9) The boats of plaisanciers

• Racing games

Enjoy your SUNDAY and happy Fleet Weekend!

What-What: Paul Bocuse

After dinner with my French family last night we watched a documentary on the life and current state of Paul Bocuse.  I recall that the moment I arrived in France I had no idea who Paul Bocuse was and why he was so important.  Interestingly enough he's definitely a famous personality in our little region and our city of Lyon- but he's also got a bit of a juicy history!

Paul Bocuse was born in the 1920's in the mountainous area of Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or near Lyon.  Born into a family of chefs, he began cooking quite young and helped to run his family restaurant "l'Auberge de Collonges".  Bocuse was involved in WWII, and following this went on to achieve a series of Michelin stars in his restaurant before beginning his last 30 years of marketing and branding.

Now, an old man at 85 years old, Bocuse sort of just panders around for money... I say this with a sort of 'gentillesse' but, in reality, the guy knows how to get money.  Once one of the most innovative chefs, now a man who utilizes his name to make as much as a profit as he can.  I'd like to highlight two of his most famous creations:

Soupe aux Truffes:  A simply delightfully rich soup that is composed of those oh-so-expensive truffles.  I probably will never make this at home, but I would love to try it when I have enough cash to eat at his establishments.  RECIPE: http://www.bocuse.fr/recettes/ficherecette.asp?id=199

Loupe de Méditeranée en Croute:  How can anyone go wrong with a sea bass bundled into a feuillité and served with a decadent sauce?  Always the one to push from 'fatty' to 'cardiovascular destruction' this takes a healthy dish and twists it into a buttery delight.  RECIPE: http://www.bocuse.fr/recettes/ficherecette.asp?id=194

However... there is more to this 85 year old dude, not only is he a keen marketer, a top chef and a legend to Lyon.. the guy is a virile as we say in French, or basically a love monkey.  Bocuse has three women that he has been seeing similtaneously for the last 30 or so years, officially married to one, he keeps three houses in order to satisfy his craving for different personalities... way to balance the love boat.

Raymone, Raymonde and Patricia.  Somehow we never truly hear about the fact Bocuse is a polygamist, most likely because his amazingly talent in the kitchen leads us to sort of forget the three-women syndrome.  Why 3?

One of them is his hunting/outdoors partner.  Every day, after waking up next to his wife (Raymonde) he wanders out to his forest home to see his lover (Patricia).  Together they walk around the lake, slowly taking in the scenery.  He makes open-fire meals from the animals they fish or hunt together... a parade of hunting dogs following behind.

Once this gets boring, he heads out with the other one for his foreign affairs, her with her coiffed up hair and pristine young look, perfect for photos and the superficiality.  She loves to travel, so she comes with him oftern around the world.

What about his actual wife?  Well she's there for any official 'local' publicity.  Taking photos with the chef dressed in his toke, smiling and still looking as though none of this is abnormal.

It's strange.. but yet so French?  It seems more of a parisian attitude to have mistresses and lovers, and the Lyonnais tend to be more on the 'stick to one' type of relationship.. but Bocuse opens that for discussion.

Outside of Bocuse's private life he runs a few restaurants in Lyon.  Le Sud, Le Nord, L'Est, L'Ouest.  He also has the original restaurant located on the collonges-au-mont-d'or... for a price.  By far, L'Est is the best restaurant out of his collection.

Want to catch a glimpse of the master?  Try mornings at Les Halles next to La Mère Richard.. that's an old French and cheesemaker so he oftens makes visits to share a coffee and a laugh.

Now I wonder if anyone ever noticed this...

BOCUSE = GUSTEAU?  Perhaps....

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Advice: My Favorite Food Stops

When I have time to really go all out- I go around to many different locations to buy up my food items.  Below is a list of my favorite places and why:

For Raw Meat:
Definitely, hands down, Boucherie Centrale on 2 rue Grenette in the 2ème arrondissement.  Ran by a father-son duo in a tiny little open shop the quality of the meat is very high.  I ordered a deux tranches de Mortadelle for a snack and it had the most amazing taste.  Their products are high quality and always delicious as well as 'normal' in price.

For Cheese:
At the marché st. Antoine:  On Saturdays at the marché st. Antoine on the quai there is a laitière and fromage vendor who sells the best products I've ever tasted... I don't remember the name but it's near the end of the market towards the North side, one of the last cheese sellers... they have a crême fermière that tastes like a buttery creme fraiche.  Try also their fromage chèvre cremeux.  Their eggs are also produced from 'les poulets heureux'... and for only 1.40 e for 6 eggs.
At a Fromagerie on 54(ish) rue de la Charité in the 2ème: My other favorite cheese place, they have many Lyonnais cheese specialties- such as the St. Marcelin for only 4 euro.

For Bread:
Le Garçon Boulanger on 37 rue de la Charité makes the best baguette I have ever eaten.  Made freshly every day, each baguette is different than another and they are often tossed into a pile in a basket.  They are specialized in levain and bio products- for the same price as other boulangeries.

For Veggies:
Either the marché, or I go to Bails Distribution in the 7ème... they are the suppliers for most restaurants in Lyon and the quality is very high.
For Spices:
Definitely Cap Epices on 39 rue de la Charité, just walking in is like getting into a haven of spices.  The owner is very kind and knowledgable on the product and the prices are cheaper than grocery stores with a better selection.  They have any kind of spice you can think of, spice mixes available in store and teas.

For Staples:
Such as canned foods, milk, etc, I usually purchase from the U-Express on 28 rue de la Charité- as their prices are normal and not reflected at "city prices".

For American/British Products:
Easy... Little Britain in the 6ème.  They have a variety of foreign items, especially the ones that I tend to crave (such as Dr. Pepper or Wheaties).  Great stop for vegetarian items as well.

For Wine:
It's not the most luxurious place in Lyon, but I really love Bons Vins de France... it's sort of a mix between the round toothless guy and the fact I can buy a litre of their homemade product for only 1.40 euro.. love it.

For Frozen Foods:
Obviously, Picard, who is a national chain that creates high-quality frozen items at moderate prices.  It's like walking into a frozen food paradise.

For Exotic Foods:
Any of the asian markets in Guillotière has cheap rice, cheap coconut milk and high quality imported goods at a cut of the prices.

That about wraps it up for my food places- it's quite a list... but I love shopping for fresh 

Advice: At the Hair Salon

I have had the most incredibly busy week here on France side- while I had my mid-terms in my CIEF classes (worth 50% of the grade), Baby-Speaking work to do and my 8 students, I barely had time to breathe, eat or rest.  Yesterday afternoon marked the end of the week and by 7pm I was ready to relax over a lovely dinner at Chabert et Fils. 

If you have ever been to any of the Chabert restaurants- this is the original.  As a fair warning the food is incredily heavy in quantity and fat... aka by the end of the night we all had horrible stomach aches... but the tartare of Salmon, the 'Lyonnais quenelle' and the finish of the 'Baba au Rhum' was a delight and definitely a nice way to top a long week.


I've been thinking seriously lately about getting my hair cut and I wanted to give a run down on some lingo for those, like myself, afraid to hop into a French hair salon.


First off, the basics:
-Une/un coiffeur: Hair stylist
-Salon ou chez le coiffure:  Hair salon


There are many great salons located in Lyon, price doesn't necessarily mean quality or rapport of happy clients... so the best thing to do is to surf a bit.  From my findings here's some good salons in Lyon Centre:

• Apartment 16:  16 rue des Archers, more expensive salon ($$$), gets an average of 4/5 stars on Yelp.
•  Orlando Coiffure/Barbier:  4 quai Fulchiron, less expensive than Apartment 16, and uses scissors to cut hair contrary to the typical use of a razor.
• Lounge Cut:  16 pl. du Mal Lyautey,  the thing I remarked about the rating was first off: 10% reduction with 'montrer d'un Petit Paumé'.  10% off of a hair cut is a pretty good deal... second it's about 39 bucks for a normal shampoo+cut+massage+style and only 50 bucks for a shampoo+cut+massage+oil treatment+style... not too shabby!

Now, time for some vocabulary first some basic terms to keep your eye open for:

Haircut: une coupe
Shampoo: le shampooing
Coloring: les couleurs
highlights: les mèches ou le bayalage (Weaving)
Set or styling: la mise en pli
Perm: la permanente
Haircare and treatments: les soins et traitements
A blow-dry or straightening: le brushing ou le lisse

Next, some more specific terminology you might here while in the chair:

your hair: vos cheveux (always masculine, plural)

Your type of hair:

fine: fins
thick: épais
oily: gras
dry: secs
mixed: mixtes
normal: normaux
curly: bouclés
frizzy: frisés
smooth: lisses
damaged: abîmés
dyed: colorés
permed: permanentés
dandruff: pellicules
cowlick: un épi

How you would like it, or you wear it: 
short or long: la coupe courte ou longue

layered: en dégradé crew cut: coupe en brosse 

blunt cut: au carré 

clean cut/well-defined: bien dégagée

asymmetrical: asymétrique
square tapered: style carré effilélayered on top: dégradé sur le dessus
short, layered look: une coupe courte tout en dégradéshort 'windblown' layered look: dégradé déstructuré
'just out of bed' look: indiscipliné

Some questions or comments to ask or tell the hair stylist:

• I cut this out of a magazine. Do you think it would suit me? J’ai découpé ça dans un magazine. Vous pensez que ça m’irait ?

• I’ve come to have the color touched up. Je viens pour me refaire ma couleur.

• I just want the roots redone. Je veux seulement une coloration des racines.

• I haven’t made up my mind about the color – a permanent or semi-permanent color. J’hésite pour la couleur – une couleur permanente ou une simple coloration.

• Can you give me highlights? Vous pouvez me faire des mèches?

• Is that possible with my hair type?  C’est possible avec mon type de cheveux ?

• Would you prefer it to dry naturally or shall I blow-dry it? Préférez-vous un séchage naturel ou un brushing ? 

• It’s too puffed up. Could you flatten it down a bit?  C’est trop gonflé, vous pouvez aplatir un peu ?

Just remember when getting your hair styled the following rules, and it won't end in tears, chopped up hair or you regretting ever moving to France.

1. Study the vocabulary before going, be prepared to use the words that you need or even print them up beforehand.
2. Bring several photos from magazines or internet from different angles to express even clearer.
3. Be patient and don't be afraid to say, 'je n'ai pas compris'.

Over-all, bonne chance!

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Advice: Sushi in Lyon

It's been quite awhile since I've been able to pound out a post- the start of classes, hours of work and my 8 students I tutor have been a bit of a work load; but now I have a bit of time to discuss a subject I find.. well.. gastronomically important.  Sushi.

I love sushi, in the United States I would eat sushi at least once a week at a little 'rolling' stop that had cheap (buck a plate) and delicious sushi.  In France, the sushi culture is still a thing of 'haut culture' so it tends to be more on the expensive side, and even more so sushi is usually ran by Chinese owners- so the quality tends to be different if not mauvaise. Chez moi the sushi joints are usually owned by Japanese or Koreans- which tend to have a more similar culture than the Chinese... but nonetheless I researched.

I've been doing lots of research and here's what I've found for sushi in Lyon at moderate prices:

Sushi King at Le Part-Dieu
Most reviews about this place said that it's not le meilleur but it satisfies the craving for sushi if needed for less expensive than the fancier places.  Tends to be between 4-6 euro for a plate of 6 maki rolls, still not the cheap U.S. prices, but affordable.


Gochi at the 2ème arr.
Gochi has gotten the highest reviews for the most affordable price, their lunch menu is 11.80e and comes with 6 plates roulant or rolling.  The best price is their menu à volonté for only 16e; which means unlimited sushi plates for less than 20 bucks!  Not too shabby...

Ze Sushi in the 2ème arr.
15 pieces of maki for about 13e; definitely not the cheapest place but it's received some top marks on quality and deliciousness.  As always, I recommend going for a mid-day snack, but is possible to go for dinner.  A great side note:  free delivery!  So, you're starving one night at your home and you can just tap out an order on their side and you are golden...

Bo Sushi in Villeurbanne
Average of 8-10e for a lunch time menu of about 10 pieces of sushi.  Not much more to say except it's located a bit far out from the center... and it looks like good quality sushi.

Are there any other recommendations for good sushi places?  These four are the ones I've heard people talkin' about, but there are many many sushi places in Lyon.  The trick is simply picking out the ones that are scams or escrocerie and picking out the ones that are the golden eggs.  Sushi is still a developing taste in France; as as you must know the French are gastronomes and protecting of their own cuisine.  Good luck and happy sushi-ing!

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Found: 2 Euro Store

Anyone from the States knows about the Dollar Tree.. that place you go when you need like 50 straws for some fund raising event.  You are going to someone's birthday and don't want to buy a super expensive Hallmark card.  You need to clean your house but Mr. Clean is simply out of the budget... well I recently discovered the European.. or more the "French" equivalent to the Dollar Tree... the 2 Euro Shop.

Located on 17 rue Victor Hugo, in Paris, down the stretch of over-priced shopping paradise.. situated between the Brioche Doré and SFR store, lies the little shop called, "C 2 Euros"... or in translated real french, c'est deux euros.  It's a store that is easily missed, we keep walking or talking and one second passes.  It's a blink and walk store, if you blink while you are walking by, well you missed your chance.


Now there are some true differences between this little jewel mine and the Dollar Tree, first off:  not everything is off brand.  That's right, there are some name-brand items in this shop.  They are sold often because they weren't sold in another store or the demand wasn't high enough.





For example, the treasures I managed to buy yesterday for only 6 euros:
-Oil bottle (for pouring my oil in style)
-Little tray for my coffee in the morning
-Pantene Pro-V Conditioner (which I could NOT find in the normal super marché!)


They also have a selection of cookware, serving ware (high quality) and little amuse-bouches serving items.  There are Lyon themed items, so great for those of us who want to bring a gift home.. but are low on cash.  And as a note:  everything is 2 euros... even if the price marked says '4' or '5.95' it's just an old listed price from the old magasin.


As a warning, it is a very small little shop.. it takes some shoving and shuffling to get around and buy things- but it is definitely worth it for poor students like myself to look like we are living fancy!

Happy cheap shopping!

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Advice: The French Kitchen

When moving to France an American should be aware as to what exactly the French kitchen is.  I don't mean the cuisine nor the utensils- but there are so many differences between American and France... many aren't prepared and few talk about it.

Unequipped
When I first moved to France, Bri and I shared a 32 m2 apartment outside the city in the 7ème arrondissement.  For those on the imperial system- that's roughly 344 sq ft between two people.  The apartment was miniscule, but the kitchen was the worst part.  Not only was there no fridge, but there was no oven, there was no stove.  It was simply a counter with a sink attached.  We chose to save about 100 euro a month by going for the unequipped kitchen... but that meant we'd have to spent money to equip it.

Buying the Appliances
There are several places to go about buying a fridge or a hot plate- Planet Saturn is probably the cheapest.. we scored a mini fridge and a hot plate within the first month... and I never got used to it.  Mini fridges in the United States are for the downstairs living room- you know- the place you store your beers and cokes for visitors.  A hot plate is saved for people living in student housing, and here I was, cooking with my one induction burner and storing my food in a fridge that went to my knees.

Ovens
Most people don't even own an oven; they are large, expensive and difficult to keep clean.  The common back up is the microwave/oven unit, which uses convection heat to bake things and can double as a normal microwave for others.  I am not a fan.  These things don't bake like an oven, my chickens are never crispy, my cookies take too long, quiches take 45 minutes.  The worse is how cheese, no matter what brand, never melts the way it should.  My lasagnas suddenly become mounds of pasta hidden under a plastic sheet of white cheese; no gooeyness.

Getting Lucky

In order to truly get lucky in the kitchen department you have to hunt.  Take my situation, when we finally moved back in September, we found out the girl moving from the apartment we wanted was going to London.  So I sneakily added, "Soo... what are you going to do with your kitchen?"  Over the next three weeks we negotiated until finally I bought her fridge, gas range and some other trinkets for the low price of 250e.  Now I have a fridge that is taller than me and FOUR burners.. so I can multi task.  The oven issue still remains.. but the rest is fabulous.


Just Remember
Moving to France is like moving to a whole new culture.. and in this case your big American ice-making fridge will shrink into a miniscule fridge... and that nice big oven that could crisp your turkeys.. well now it's a rotating convection oven that couldn't bake a whole turkey unless it was hacked into pieces.