My Night in China

I can count the days on my fingers before I train it to Paris, and it is passing by quickly.  As Bri isn't here, I'm been busying myself with packing suitcases for Paris (we're doing a move via TGV, more to come later), eating with girlfriends and partying.

Partying?

Let me rephrase that, utterly destroying my French Master's friends with bottles upon bottles of alcohol.

How much alcohol?

About this much.. for those who need a count, that's about 8 bottles of wine, plus a boxed wine (3 bottles), two full bottles of liquer, an 1/8 of a bottle of Absinthe... plus later into cleaning I uncovered 4 more bottles of wine.

Roughly, 11,25 liters of 12% alcohol, and about 2 liters of hard alcohol.  For about 16 people... so.. a lot.

This was the end to a very long week, one event at the Chamber of Commerce in Paris, one morning of terrible illness and then a train at 6am the next day.

All in all I was thrilled when my good Chinese friend, Qingyun, invited me for a free Chinese dinner at some of her close friends.  

The minute we walked into the restaurant, I could see it was clean and family oriented.  Bisous passed around, Qingyun began rapid fire Mandarin with the chef and then her herself pointed to a giant bucket of dinosaur-looking body parts.

"We are going to eat chicken feet tonight!" I smiled, I wasn't shocked, this is exactly what I wanted to eat. I had heard about for years from my Sister, and I was thrilled to eat with the family and be a part of the experience.

The chef's jacket was a little too large.

The kitchen was covered with the dense smells of spices, I noted around me, ginger, garlic, star anise, cinnamon, salt, pepper, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, soy sauce...  The chef expertly used his giant spoon to eyeball out the quantities and toss into his wok that he tossed around as though it weighed nothing.  A giant chef's knife laid on the chopping board, which he's used to chop the toes off the chicken feet, mince up the vegetables.

I watched with intrigue as I realized this dinner wasn't a little dinner, they had made about 5 different dishes.  2 dishes were crab based, one short ribs, one chicken feet, another with mussels, fresh baby peas.  Qingyun jumped on the wok and began doing the same, I sat back afraid to touch anything, but observing nonetheless.

"You like spicy?" She smiled at me, "Most white people don't like too spicy, the French like sweet or bland..." I nodded, of course I loved spicy.  I used to eat jalapenos on my eggs for breakfast!

Finally the meal was coming together, the chef adding the finishing touches, a dash of salt, a ladle full of sauce:

Adding the sauce

Presenting the Crab Dish

I sat at the table, set before me a completely luxurous meal...

Two types of crab, (the mussels and feet came after)

I ate SO MUCH!

So.

Story is, if you wanna have some good Chinese, for not too expensive either A. Find a Chinese friend, or B. Go to Seng Heng in Lyon 3ème: http://www.webcity.fr/seng-heng-lyon/lieu

The owners are incredibly nice, patient and even though they've tried to branch out to Japanese specialities, try to ask for the typical Chinese dishes; dumplings.. Very high quality, clean kitchen and gentille staff.

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Adventures in the Metro

Living in a large European city teaches you many different things such as: get used to that 15 minute walk with heavy groceries, or, don't make eye contact with that scraggly looking group of youth, or even, be friends with your butcher.


The one thing I still haven't mastered since my year and a half in Lyon is What To Do On the Métro.

Public transportation is inevitable, even if I wanted to avoid the bus or the underground subway line I couldn't!  You see, even with the fabulous bike share system and the potential to walk anywhere with my two feet- the métro is juste faster and easier.

Or is it?

In Lyon there are 4 lines of the underground Métro system, 2 lines of forniculars, 4 lines of over-ground tramway system, a multitude of electric buses and and ever more selection of bus lines.  All information is available from the TCL Website.

Today's focus will be: The Underground Métro:

Line A, or the RED LINE goes from Perrache in the center to Vaulx-en-Valin la Soie (or whatever on the spelling) out on the East side of Lyon.  This line utilizes the typical system, a dude sitting and driving it.  However, this also causes some issues in regards to timing. The driver will sometimes wait at a stop, more than necessarily, probably picking his French teeth or laughing his French laugh.  This wait makes us all uncomfortable, and everyone begins to be aware of time passing- watches are checked ever 20 seconds, feet start tapping with impatience...

Line B, or the BLUE LINE goes from Stade de Gerland to Charpennes.  Basically a great line to avoid unless being transferred to the Centre Commercial de la Part-Dieu which is necessary when taking a train, doing Christmas shopping.. or even going to a Football Match (Stade de Gerland).

Line C, or the ORANGE LINE (really looks yellow, but I'm not picky) goes from Hôtel de Ville to La Croix Rousse.  It's a really odd métro line, why do I say this?  Because it resembles a sort of fornicular or cable car.  Everything is in a sort of slanted angle, when on the métro you have to do a sort off lean forward in order to not fall on your neighbor.  La Croix Rousse is up on a hill, so logic tells you the Métro is basically climbing a hill.  Same as the RED LINE, the ORANGE LINE has a manual driver which switches every end stop, and takes at least 7 minutes to start up.  But, a lot easier to take the métro than walk up the giant hills of the Croix Rousse.

Line D, or the GREEN LINE, goes from Gare de Vaise to Gare de Vénissieux.  Neither of the Gares is a nice place to be, so at my advice I use the Green line to get closer to Ikea (in St. Priest), get to Vieux Lyon... and that's about it.  Oh, word to the wise:  This line is a-u-t-o-m-a-t-e-d!  This means there is like a 5 minute passing period, if it's at the stop... RUN!  Once the beeping starts, you better jump into the train otherwise you will be waiting an efficient 3 minutes for the next one.

What to Do On the Métro, and What NOT To Do
Getting on the métro can be a terrible experience for those unprepared.  Between 4PM and 6PM every day there is a sudden flux of individuals all pressing to get home for dinner.  Baguettes stick people in the bum, bags are shoved into your chest, and with the métros having a limit of people- well that disappears.  If you want to catch a métro you must go in elbows first. Don't be afraid to push and jump into the craziness!  So:

Rule #1:  Elbows First.

Then you're on the métro, you have some posters glued along the side panels, lovely flourescent lights lining the ceiling.  Most likely a smelly homeless man shoved away in the corner, smelling grotesquely like an ogre.  There will probably be a group of hoodlums hanging in the corner and shouting to each other.  Now the question is, where to go?  If you have enough room to elbow through to a safe spot... In this case:

Rule #2: Find the Grandma.

So you've successfully gotten into the métro, situated yourself next to Grandma.  One thing is clear from this moment,

Rule #3: Look Anywhere but Other People's Eyes, AKA Avoid Eye Contact

Look any where else, that poster you've read a million times, your iPhone game, your hang nails.  Many French people will occupy themselves by chewing on their nails- if you want to avoid a terrible habit simple count the lines in the ceiling.  It is difficult to find things to do on the métro, but everyone is in the same position.

Looking around, you'll notice how hard everyone is trying to look anywhere but in someone's eyes.  On the métro, even though you're practically in your neighbor, it's as if we don't really exist in the same place.

Now, your stop is arriving...

Rule #4: Elbows Out to Exit the Métro

Don't let them French people get you stuck, just shout clearly, "excusez-MOI!" and elbow them.

Or you could always just get a year pass to Velo'V and bike it!

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Release of the New Petit Paumé!

Hey all!

I received an email from one of the organizers from Petit Paumé... apparently the new season has just arrived and it is time.. to pick up.. your new french copy.....!

If you have no idea what Petit Paumé is, check out my post from a few months back:  The Petit Paumé.

Basically to summarize it's a special Lyon based guide and discount booklet for all those living in Lyon.  Pretty much a fabulous way to save cash and get some awesome advice (not to mention pratice le skills françaises) the new 2012 season has officially arrived.

Where to get a copy?

Well my little Petit-Paumé bird, Etienne, has informed me that next weekend on October 8th, starting at 12h30, Place Bellecour, free copies will be distributed until they have run out.

I have to work that day, but I've decided to send Bri out to get my copy in my absence.

Enjoy the savings and réductions!

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Advice: English Books

I've had a lot of questions surrounding the wherabouts of English books, even myself in my Master's program I haven't read a book in French just for the pure pleasure of it.  English books are easier to read and tend to be more interesting to digest... many times it loses that flavor in translation-- no one wants a flavorless book.

Thus I've decided to discuss where to find English books, either to have for families with bilingual children or for those who simply love to read (like myself).

First off, the big stores:

Decitre next to Bellecour has a great section of Anglophone books, so much so sometimes I wonder why they even bother having French books.  The issue is all the books are new, ie costly, and so we run the risk of spending lots of money for good reads.  Anglophone books, like British goodies, are considered import commodities so they get away with charging even more than normal.

Looking for USED English books?  Gilbert Joseph off La Rue des Marronniers offers a buy-back program for books as well as a section (third story, in the back) of used English books.  It's also great for those who have a pile of English books and are ready for a change... can't guarantee that they will buy for a lot of cash, but in regards to changing it up... good deal.  I was able to find a book sold at 10€ at Decitre for only 4€ at Gilbert Joseph.  The pricing changes, as does the availability... it's sort of a hunt for what you want.

Amazon.com of course is another option for those not willing to scout for Anglohpone books- the best deal however is that in France books are FREE DELIVERY with Amazon.  Not sure if it's a regulated country law or simply out of the graciousness of their hearts (have a hard time believing that one) but it remains a fact.

Fnac also has an Anglophone section, but their prices tend to fluctuate towards unaffordable.  Hoewever if you have loads of cash and want a good ol' Anglophone library feel free!

For those with children in tow, or even French families looking to expand their bilingual repetoire- there is a fabulous Children's Bilingual bookstore in the 6ème, next to Rue Vendôme, called Inter Fun.  Not only do they have English children's books but also German or Spanish for those looking to get that trilingual action in sooner than later.

Those are some resources that I've found.  When in doubt scan the online ads for English books, I saw some listings at Little Britain recently that offered some great children's books for as little as 1€ a book!

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For the Ladies: The Gyneco

I finally did it, that most uncomfortable and dreadful thing that only a slew of message boards frightened me into turning around and never looking back.

About 4 months ago I decided, after pressure from my French mother, to book an appointment with a Gyneco in France.  A quick search online on exasperated the fear I had.  Some of my favorite lines that I read from reviews and message boards,

Elle a même pas lavé ses mains ou changé le drap sur le lit.  Ce n'était pas propre... quel horreur! = She didn't even wash her hands or changed the sheet on the table.  It was not clearn... what a horror!

J'avais saignement pendant trois jours de ma visite. = I was bleeding for 3 days after my visit.

And the scariest most horrific one was from a fellow blogger:

You undress in front of your doctor, you walk around the room naked while you’re doctor is there, you climb up on the table naked and there are no gowns or towels to cover anything, and you get dressed again with your doctor watching. - American in France

Naked?  Just walking around feeling the breeze on my bits?  I didn't think I could handle it so I put the task at my French mother to find me a good one.  After about a week she txted me:

J'ai demandé aux mes collègues, elles m'ont donné le nom "Lavagna"

Like lasagna, I could handle that.

I called in the beginning of May, and unfortunately, Mme Lavagna was booked until July.  I had a date set, July 21, which was yesterday.

Now I totally forgot about the visit, placed it a million miles away in the back of my mind so I wouldn't have to recall the millions of posts about bleeding for days, nakedness and awkward dirty clinics.  Except one can only forget for so long until it's the day off and you're on the bus hypervenilating and using google translate to figure out key phrases so you don't look like an idiot.

Sexuellement active
Maladies transmettre sexuellement
Les pilules

What was I doing?  Turn this bus around!

Of course, I didn't jump out the window, instead I actually went.  Hidden on the street was 168, I buzzed myself in and wandered upstairs.  A beep of the button and the receptionist was there, cheery and taking my information.  How tall am I? Is this my first time? Etc.

10 minutes of me fidgeting around in my seat later an older woman in jeans and a nice long sleeve shirt popped out and shook my hand.  Mme Lavagna, herself.  I was put off by her fashion, high heels and the fact she has a manicure.. but hey gynecos can look good too.

Yes, I had to get stark naked.  No it was not in front of her, she had a nice covered area where I could undress, but I was still de-clothed and strewn on with a light in my nether regions.  It was still unnerving that I was in what felt like someone's apartment, but she did have the equipment and a private room that felt like a doctor's office at home.

Is it ever a joy ride going to the gyneco? No.  But for 50 bucks in France I expected royal treatment, it wasn't the worse of stories, it was ok.  I felt like she was sort of rushing me out of the clinic and kind of procedurally doing things.  Screw small talk, get undressed, get on the table, 10 minutes and some pain later, get dressed, pay.

She did; however, ensure my prescription for birth control was covered by insurance and that the visit was also covered.

15 minutes later I was on the street.

So now I have to find a dentist.

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Advice: Things to Know When Coming to France

I have been compiling a list mentally since I've moved to France regarding the differences and the things I must ABSOLUTELY avoid or DO while living in France.  It's sad, because many Americans who come overseas disregard it, and assume that Lyon is an extension of the States (it is most definitely NOT).  I can't count the countless times my French friends look disgustingly at Americans behaving rude or 'oddly' because they simply don't know how to behave differently.

DO
-Understand the difference between TU and VOUS
-Get used to putting your bread on the table, not on your plate
-Get some basic French phrases in your pocket
-Get ready to gain 10 lbs
-Compliment the host/hostess when invited to dinner
-Bring a GIFT when invited to dinner
-Learn how to use your knife and fork, 90 percent of French people use BOTH during dinner
-Finish your entire plate at dinner, there are no doggy bags
-Ask market vendors for what you would like
-Sauce your plate- mean sop up every piece with your bread.  A finished plate is a compliment.  Unfinished means you didn't like it that much.

DON'T
-Ask French women if they shave
-Be ignorant when someone proposes you try something new (i.e. forest mushrooms, Roquefort cheese)
-Assume everyone speaks english, because they don't
-Leave a tip, it makes you stick out as THE TOURIST
-Curse in French around people you don't know
-Ask for butter for your bread
-Ask for a 'Doggy Bag' at a restaurant
-Touch the produce at a market, unless the vendor says you can (they give you a basket and tell you to go at it)
-Make a face when someone mentions 'escargots', 'tripes', or 'pieds de cochons'.  They think the same thing about Pumpkin Pie and Sweet Potato Casserole with marshmallows.
-Serve yourself wine, the host/hostess serves this.

And yes, I made lots of mistakes.. it's only human.

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Advice: Le Pain (bread)

Summer time in Lyon, it's almost like a beautiful... magical.. swealtering hot time in which we can abandon all worries and take a weekend off to have a summer picnic.

Everyone has their own preference as to what makes a *perfect picnic*, but I have my own special picnic that I find.. well frankly amazing.  A few months back I talked about my favorite food shops, so you'll need to know the addresses for these in order to make up a Sasha Picnic.  The Sunday post I do will be on my own special picnic- but first thing's first; the bread.

It starts with a baguette.

Baguettes are the staple food in France, every French person has a baguette on their table during a meal, pieces torn off and put directly on the table (not on a plate).

Little know the history of bread in France, and I'm not about to give a detailed account... just a basic summary.

Every few steps in Lyon, one can find a Boulangerie- not every boulangerie holds a high quality baguette, but every boulangerie definitely has a baguette.  Sold unwrapped and set about the shop, the baguette is an experience in it's own.  Nothing compares to a French baguette in the states; from the crisp of the crust, to the dense bubbly interior- ready as a staple to sauce your plate, or simply to cut open and smother with a thick camembert cheese.

Bread has been a staple in the French meal since the middle ages, but has taken changes over time.  Upon introduction of white flour in the 16th century by the Italian nobility the Medicis, and the idea of using bread as a leavening agent, bread began to take on the whiter hue we see in modern day Baguettes.  Crisis in the 19th century turned Bonaparte to create laws to protect the prices of bread, and as always, bread has remained an essential.  The one stereotype that rings true, most French people to have a baguette in their hand when returning home.

Made an average of three times a day, a majority of boulangeries in France make it fresh from the start- from this flour is considered a state commodity and the government actually provides subsidies so flour retains a moderately low price in market.  One can buy 1 kilo of farine for only 2€, that's about 1€ a pound!

But- there are more than baguettes.  Allow me to explain (source: observatoire du pain):

Le Pain Tradition Français

A bread created from bread flour, water, salt and a rising ingredient.  Due to simplicity it is a very 'bubbly' bread, meaning there are many holes in the dough.  Great for picnics as it retains wells, and works great with creamy cheeses.








Under this category:

• La Banette (more triangular shaped than a baguette, tends to be fluffier, specialty recipe)
• La Baguette (typical slim round baguette)
• Pain au Levain (Sour Dough bread)

Le Pain Complet

Complet, meaning whole wheat.  This bread tends to be a much toothier bread , whole grain.  I usually eat sliced with melted butter/honey for breakfast.  Tends to over ride the flavor of dishes and doesn't mesh well with cheeses.  Better as a breakfast item.

Other 'complet'

• Pain au Siegle (rye bread)
• Pain aux 5 céréales
• Pain aux Noix (nut bread, very delicious)

Le Pain de Compagne

Campagne, the countryside, this bread is even more toothy than the pain complet. It's fabulous a little on the dry side served in the winter with a nice potage de boeuf or a soup.

Pain de Mie

Pain de Mie, is the sliced bread we are used to in the states.  I have rarely eaten this in France; but it is used for French Toast (which is a dessert; not breakfast in France).  Even sadnwiches are not made with it; usually we use baguettes sliced open.  The French love their crusts.

Le Pain Brioché

Pain Brioché, or just simply Brioche, is a dense, fluffy and rich sweet bread that is often served toasted for breakfast.  Tends to be full of butter, so be aware!  Definitely not for a dinner bread, but fabulous for breakfast with some butter and jam.

So.  In the states we think *bread*, we think sliced white packaged from last week.  In France, bread is an art and a sustenance for the daily meal.

Now, you gotta try all the types of bread and find your favorite- personally I'm a Banette type of gal.

P.S.  My favorite boulangerie:  Les Garçons Boulangers.  Miam.

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Advice: Family Care Packages

After moving overseas, there will most likely be a time when your family will want to send you a care package.  It's not a complicated process, but there are some very important things to pay attention to.

First off:

U.S. Postal service offers one size only boxes where you can send as much as you can stuff into a box for only about $50. It has a maximum of about 50 lbs, and the best part is that it can be tracked.  Here's where it gets particular:

1. The package contents must be worth less than $1,000
2. The contents must be of personal use, if not your family will want to note on the customs form *CADEAUX*

When the family wants to send a package:

-Stuff the box as much as possible
-Note on the OUTSIDE of the box, "CADEAUX" and also note clearly the "RENDRE CHEZ BUREAU DE POSTE *INSERT ADDRESS OF CLOSEST POSTE TO YOU*"

The return to Bureau is the MOST important piece to remember.  Many times I have heard friends that have waited for their loving packages only to find it was sent back to the States because the post office wasn't able to deliver.

Ensure also to remember the simple address pieces, such as, is the *batiment sur cour* or *4ème étage*.  We don't need to do this in the states, but due to the old buildings and structures in France, it's never completely clear WHERE the apartment is located.

Now the fun part, what to send?
-American Trash Mags
-McCormick Seasoning packs (beef stew, chili, taco, spice mixes)
-Peanut Butter (incredibly expensive here)
-Skittles
-Reeses Pieces
-Root Beer Mix
-Cream of Tartar
-Cornbread Mix (Jiffy)
-Dried Black Beans
-Jello Mix
-Kraft Macaroni and Cheese
-English Cook Books or Reading books not available in France
-Twinkies
-Reeses Peanut Butter Cups
-Steel Cut Oats
-Snickers
-Chocolate Chips (White/Milk Chocolate)
-Smuckers Grape Jelly (I know, evil of me)
-Canned Pumpkin
-Microwave Popcorn
-Wild Rice
-College Ruled Notebooks

Then you can be as happy as Bri and I...

As you can see, my mom is the pro at package sending.








Happy sending, if any doubts or if hunting/ packaging isn't your thing:

http://sendcare.com/

Apparently they will send packages for you. Neat idea!

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My Little Lyon

Ah the joy it was when I came across the application for my iPhone My Little Lyon.  Simple interface, cute images, the goal?  Describes things to do around Lyon during these quiet summer months.  It seems like there is little to do, especially when you want to watch your money- but the app has actually lead me into some interesting ideas.

Even better?  The application is also a website available online for non iPhone users: http://www.mylittle.fr/mylittlelyon/

Every day there is a nouveau idée of what to do around the city.  An example?  Picnic from a specialty epicerie who makes a menu of entrée/plat/dessert for the low sum of 9€.


Check out the site to see even more, the best deal that I found on there yet is the free tour of la croix russe told by two actors/comediens.

Called, les visites d'idées, the two gents tell a 'veritable subjective truth' of the Croix Russe.  The best part?  It's absolutely free.  Here is their site: http://www.visitesdidees.blogspot.com/

Bri and I plan to go on the 8th of July, it's going to be great for a Friday night... and because they do it for free it will be absolutely fabulous for our pockets.

My Little Lyon is a fabulous tool for those who live in Lyon and claim, there's nothing to do! Sometimes it just takes a bit of hunting and searching.

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Advice: Renewing the Student Visa

I had to renew my student visa yesterday morning and WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!  I expected certain things and was surprised at others.  I also noticed there was barely any other people that wrote about this experience so I decided to give some information on the process.

First off:

There are two ways to renew your student visa:

1. Through the préfecture.
2. Through the University.

The University means less wait time- but the préfecture guarantees the timing on dropping off the paper work.

If your visa is going to expire before the results of acceptance into University- the Préfecture understands and will simply take the information you have.  When you come back to pick up the long stay visa, then you will bring in proof of schooling.

For either situation you will need the following documents:

• Your passeport.
• Copies of the following pages in your passport:
• Identification page (the 'passport' page)
• The original visa
• Stamp of entry into France the year previous
• Vignette d'OFII (the medical paper they gave you after your OFII appointment)
• Original Birth Certificate, dated less than 3 months from date of renewal.
• Copy of Original Birth Certificate
• Translation of Birth Certificate (done by a certified translator, I used a woman named Karen King in Northern France; scanned it, sent it, she translated it and then mailed it back for only 32 euros).
• Copy of Translation
• Proof of Housing:  The rent bill dated at least 3 months from the date of renewal.
• Copy of Proof of Housing
• Certificate de Scolarité from the previous year's study- this comes from when you sign up at University, they give you this paper that on the back reads:  Certificate de Scolarité.  Get one for each semester.
• Copies of the certificat de scolarité
• Grades from the previous semester (if grades are not released yet, use the FIRST semester)
• Copies of Grades from previous semester
• Proof of Ability to Take Care of Yourself; basically a Bank RIB copy (in France), Contrat de Travail (if you work), proof of WORK payments, or an attestation written by your parents stating they will pay for your studies- as well as their most recent bank statement.
• COPY of all the above.
• 3 Photos, taken from a photo shop (I used: Arsilver Photo. 5 r Barre 69002) ensure the background is off white, light gray- NOT WHITE- they will not accept WHITE.

Those are all the documents she ended up taking from me, even though I brought a whole bunch more. The list of needed documents are also available through the préfecture website:

http://www.rhone.gouv.fr/web/94-etudiants.php

Furthermore, you will need to go to the préfecture in the 3ème, next door to the Commercial Center Part-Dieu: 12 rue des Cuirassiers.  NOTE:  GET IN LINE EARLY.  GET THERE AT 8:30am IF YOU WANT TO GET SERVED ON TIME.  I had to wait 3 HOURS.

You pass through the 'accueil' and take a ticket.  Tell them you are there for a "renouvellement de visa étudiant".  They will hand you a ticket, go up stairs, wait in the THIRD HALL.

After the woman calls you up, simply show her your visa, state you are renewing your visa and begin to give the documents as she asks for them.  After this, she will take your photo, attach it to a paper... which will extend your visit for another 3 months...

Your new visa will arrive in 6-8 weeks, there is no reference or notification... so you have to simply wait for 8 weeks and come by the same place to see if it has arrived.

Voila!

It's a lot simpler than in the states...

What_What: M Ton Marché

By chance I was watching the local Lyonnais channel TLM when I came across this totally awesome movement via the web (hosted of course by our lovely Rhone Commerce center) that puts the positive back on marchés.

Seeing how people usually avoid the marché at a young age, especially for the following reasons:

1. Getting up at 10am is physically impossible for many students;
2. Only old people shop the marché;
3. Everything is more expensive at the marche;
4. What's the point?

Well, there is a big point of going to the marché, and the region here is trying to show why.  M Ton Marché is a play on words, which goes to say, Aimes Ton Marché.  Means love your market, and in order to do this they have created a website by the same name.  M Ton Marché is going to become a sort of profile on the markets in the Rhone Alpes region, an exposé that puts the positive back in balader du marché.

I'm always amazed at the negative context surrounding the markets in France.  I see tons of young people walking around with carrefour or Lidl sacs, believing they have saved a load of money.  In reality, by smart shopping and buying in season we can eat more vegetables and fruits, create a relationship with our food and appreciate the effort even more.

France is meant to be the one place that shopping for the food is still an art and a pleasure.  You have your lovely wicker basket, you look lovingly at your French lover and ask for a kilo of tomatoes.  It's a fantastic experience as roasted chickens waft in the air, the smell of fresh produce entices your appetite.

Lidl sacs or wicker baskets?  I choose basket.

M Ton Marché is available, but definitely needs some continuing work.  Soon there will be profiles on our favorite producer's (I hope for the dairy guy, the chicken dude and my shouting fruity dude).  They will explain the different areas of the marché, which is difficult as the marché tends to change weekly..

In the mean time.. here's my marché map..

Afficher Lyon Markets & Épiceries (Lyon, France) sur une carte plus grande

Weekend Event: Le Pardon des Mariniers

If you are from any port-city, like myself, the summertime always marks the beginning of a few things :

• summertime weather
• ability to wear shorts
• slew of sailors coming in for the awesome festival known as FLEET WEEK in my mother tongue.

How joyous was I when I unlocked my boite de lettre and out popped a flyer that stated, “Le Pardon des Mariniers”, or the forgiving of sailors. I could only assume, as Lyon is also a port city, that this meant Fleet Week!

Well. It does. It apparently is a yearly event put on by Lyon in the 2ème arrondissment and celebrates the mariniers, the sailors. It’s only this weekend, so with the beautiful weather, hot sailors in outfits and some time to kill why not check out the weekend events??

First off, today, starting at 2pm, there will be the following (all along the Quai Rambaud, next to Perrache), look at the map in regards to WHERE exactly the find the events:

(1) 2PM - Welcoming Ceremony at 21 Quai Rambaud

(2) 8:30pm to 1:00am – Sailor’s Ball… also at 21 Quai Rambaud.. if you can find a sailor alone, you could get invited!

Now onto the SUNDAY events…

In the Morning (Specific Agenda)…

(1) 9:30am – Competition for boat decorating.

(1) 10:00am – Mass (catholic service) by Father Gréa, accompanied by the Choir of Saint Blandine.

(1) 11:00am – Blessing of the boats along the quai.

(1) 12:00 pm – ‘verre d’amité’ or a glass of friendship by the Mayor of the 2ème.

In the Afternoon…

(5) 12:30pm – Lunch under the trees, drink and barbeque for 6-13€. PLUS Barbarian organs by Jean-Marie Nicollet.

(4) 2:00pm – Race of wherries (little boats) presented by Association of Battalion Families

(4) 2:30pm – Demonstration of the joutes or long boats that joust, resembling Viking boats. Accompanied by music presented by La Barquette de Givors.

(4) 4:00pm – Demonstration of rescue dogs.

(2) 4:00pm to 6:30pm– A presentation by the Folk Lore group, Estrelas douradas, of the 6ème.

(1 & 9) 4:30pm/5:30pm – Presentation (like a fashion show) of the musical decorated boats presented by Grand Lyon.

Offered ALL DAY LONG…

(1) Commented visit of the Chapel Boat “Le Lien”

(2) Wooden toy creation by “Billy the Kit”

• Fun area and toys for children.
• Reduction in prices for the decoration of the boats

(6) Large commercial boats and artisanal floats

• 3 free shows with the famous Lyonnais Guignols.

(7) Discover the Canoeing/Kayaking and initiation of Baby Ski for 4/13 years old, free, please bring a swimsuit.

(9) The boats of plaisanciers

• Racing games

Enjoy your SUNDAY and happy Fleet Weekend!

Been Forever, Once Again...

I am just going to briefly say that in between all the work, school and tutoring that I have been doing- I've barely had the weekends to breathe.

After this week, I'll be free to write up loads... and what you can expect in about a week:

-The Story of the Typical French Maitrese
-American Hospitality
-My First Haircut in France
-My First Gyno Appointment in France (YIKES)
-Development of Allergies
-Best Restaurant in Lyon
-Review of Ayers Rock, the Boat
-How To:  Visit a Café in France
-What Is: A George
-Reapplication for a Student Visa


This summer, I'll be staying in France (hopefully, I will be reapplying in one week).... so there should be lots of stories!

Talk soon,

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Advice: Writing a Letter of Motivation

Oh-là-là.  The letter of motivation, one of the most important letters that we write in France and pretty much obligatory for entrance to University as well as for jobs.  The worse?  If you don't follow the specific structure of the letter, than often the professors or hiring managers will toss the letter without a second thought.  A letter should be precise and not more than 2 pages (recto-verso).

Here's how to form the letter, it's important to know that the location of the information does matter, thus, for example, Number 1 is located in the left hand upper corner, etc.:

1: Information of the sender, aka, YOU.

(ex: Sasha STEINER, Address, Phone number, Email address)

2: Name/Status of Destination

(ex. M. Zoo, Title, Address)
*NOTE:  Look up the name of who you are writing to.

3: Place and Date

(ex. Lyon, le 19 avril 2011)

4: Subjet or Object

(ex. objet: demande d'inscription pour...)

        5: Madame/Monsieur,

6: The content, focus on:  previous experiences, future aspirations, travels and other pertinent information.  This will usually be around 8-9 paragraphs, please DOUBLE CHECK your French and avoid using slang or familiar French.  Use, of course, the 'nous' form instead of the 'on' form, and check for simple errors such as COD or what type of auxiliary verb was used for the passé.  If you can find a French french to edit, do it, it will be the best decision you've made.

7: Polite exit... MOST IMPORTANT.. Write as following:  "Je vous remercie de l’attention que vous porterez à ma candidature, et dans l’attente de votre réponse, je vous prie d’agréer, Monsieur, l’expression de mes salutations distinguées."  The parts in bold can be replaced by the appropriate term.

8: Signature

9:  (In TINY print) P.J. (pièce joint), and then a listing of any documents you are including with the letter.

Any questions, feel free to email.

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Advice: My Favorite Food Stops

When I have time to really go all out- I go around to many different locations to buy up my food items.  Below is a list of my favorite places and why:

For Raw Meat:
Definitely, hands down, Boucherie Centrale on 2 rue Grenette in the 2ème arrondissement.  Ran by a father-son duo in a tiny little open shop the quality of the meat is very high.  I ordered a deux tranches de Mortadelle for a snack and it had the most amazing taste.  Their products are high quality and always delicious as well as 'normal' in price.

For Cheese:
At the marché st. Antoine:  On Saturdays at the marché st. Antoine on the quai there is a laitière and fromage vendor who sells the best products I've ever tasted... I don't remember the name but it's near the end of the market towards the North side, one of the last cheese sellers... they have a crême fermière that tastes like a buttery creme fraiche.  Try also their fromage chèvre cremeux.  Their eggs are also produced from 'les poulets heureux'... and for only 1.40 e for 6 eggs.
At a Fromagerie on 54(ish) rue de la Charité in the 2ème: My other favorite cheese place, they have many Lyonnais cheese specialties- such as the St. Marcelin for only 4 euro.

For Bread:
Le Garçon Boulanger on 37 rue de la Charité makes the best baguette I have ever eaten.  Made freshly every day, each baguette is different than another and they are often tossed into a pile in a basket.  They are specialized in levain and bio products- for the same price as other boulangeries.

For Veggies:
Either the marché, or I go to Bails Distribution in the 7ème... they are the suppliers for most restaurants in Lyon and the quality is very high.
For Spices:
Definitely Cap Epices on 39 rue de la Charité, just walking in is like getting into a haven of spices.  The owner is very kind and knowledgable on the product and the prices are cheaper than grocery stores with a better selection.  They have any kind of spice you can think of, spice mixes available in store and teas.

For Staples:
Such as canned foods, milk, etc, I usually purchase from the U-Express on 28 rue de la Charité- as their prices are normal and not reflected at "city prices".

For American/British Products:
Easy... Little Britain in the 6ème.  They have a variety of foreign items, especially the ones that I tend to crave (such as Dr. Pepper or Wheaties).  Great stop for vegetarian items as well.

For Wine:
It's not the most luxurious place in Lyon, but I really love Bons Vins de France... it's sort of a mix between the round toothless guy and the fact I can buy a litre of their homemade product for only 1.40 euro.. love it.

For Frozen Foods:
Obviously, Picard, who is a national chain that creates high-quality frozen items at moderate prices.  It's like walking into a frozen food paradise.

For Exotic Foods:
Any of the asian markets in Guillotière has cheap rice, cheap coconut milk and high quality imported goods at a cut of the prices.

That about wraps it up for my food places- it's quite a list... but I love shopping for fresh 

Advice: At the Hair Salon

I have had the most incredibly busy week here on France side- while I had my mid-terms in my CIEF classes (worth 50% of the grade), Baby-Speaking work to do and my 8 students, I barely had time to breathe, eat or rest.  Yesterday afternoon marked the end of the week and by 7pm I was ready to relax over a lovely dinner at Chabert et Fils. 

If you have ever been to any of the Chabert restaurants- this is the original.  As a fair warning the food is incredily heavy in quantity and fat... aka by the end of the night we all had horrible stomach aches... but the tartare of Salmon, the 'Lyonnais quenelle' and the finish of the 'Baba au Rhum' was a delight and definitely a nice way to top a long week.


I've been thinking seriously lately about getting my hair cut and I wanted to give a run down on some lingo for those, like myself, afraid to hop into a French hair salon.


First off, the basics:
-Une/un coiffeur: Hair stylist
-Salon ou chez le coiffure:  Hair salon


There are many great salons located in Lyon, price doesn't necessarily mean quality or rapport of happy clients... so the best thing to do is to surf a bit.  From my findings here's some good salons in Lyon Centre:

• Apartment 16:  16 rue des Archers, more expensive salon ($$$), gets an average of 4/5 stars on Yelp.
•  Orlando Coiffure/Barbier:  4 quai Fulchiron, less expensive than Apartment 16, and uses scissors to cut hair contrary to the typical use of a razor.
• Lounge Cut:  16 pl. du Mal Lyautey,  the thing I remarked about the rating was first off: 10% reduction with 'montrer d'un Petit Paumé'.  10% off of a hair cut is a pretty good deal... second it's about 39 bucks for a normal shampoo+cut+massage+style and only 50 bucks for a shampoo+cut+massage+oil treatment+style... not too shabby!

Now, time for some vocabulary first some basic terms to keep your eye open for:

Haircut: une coupe
Shampoo: le shampooing
Coloring: les couleurs
highlights: les mèches ou le bayalage (Weaving)
Set or styling: la mise en pli
Perm: la permanente
Haircare and treatments: les soins et traitements
A blow-dry or straightening: le brushing ou le lisse

Next, some more specific terminology you might here while in the chair:

your hair: vos cheveux (always masculine, plural)

Your type of hair:

fine: fins
thick: épais
oily: gras
dry: secs
mixed: mixtes
normal: normaux
curly: bouclés
frizzy: frisés
smooth: lisses
damaged: abîmés
dyed: colorés
permed: permanentés
dandruff: pellicules
cowlick: un épi

How you would like it, or you wear it: 
short or long: la coupe courte ou longue

layered: en dégradé crew cut: coupe en brosse 

blunt cut: au carré 

clean cut/well-defined: bien dégagée

asymmetrical: asymétrique
square tapered: style carré effilélayered on top: dégradé sur le dessus
short, layered look: une coupe courte tout en dégradéshort 'windblown' layered look: dégradé déstructuré
'just out of bed' look: indiscipliné

Some questions or comments to ask or tell the hair stylist:

• I cut this out of a magazine. Do you think it would suit me? J’ai découpé ça dans un magazine. Vous pensez que ça m’irait ?

• I’ve come to have the color touched up. Je viens pour me refaire ma couleur.

• I just want the roots redone. Je veux seulement une coloration des racines.

• I haven’t made up my mind about the color – a permanent or semi-permanent color. J’hésite pour la couleur – une couleur permanente ou une simple coloration.

• Can you give me highlights? Vous pouvez me faire des mèches?

• Is that possible with my hair type?  C’est possible avec mon type de cheveux ?

• Would you prefer it to dry naturally or shall I blow-dry it? Préférez-vous un séchage naturel ou un brushing ? 

• It’s too puffed up. Could you flatten it down a bit?  C’est trop gonflé, vous pouvez aplatir un peu ?

Just remember when getting your hair styled the following rules, and it won't end in tears, chopped up hair or you regretting ever moving to France.

1. Study the vocabulary before going, be prepared to use the words that you need or even print them up beforehand.
2. Bring several photos from magazines or internet from different angles to express even clearer.
3. Be patient and don't be afraid to say, 'je n'ai pas compris'.

Over-all, bonne chance!

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Advice: Sushi in Lyon

It's been quite awhile since I've been able to pound out a post- the start of classes, hours of work and my 8 students I tutor have been a bit of a work load; but now I have a bit of time to discuss a subject I find.. well.. gastronomically important.  Sushi.

I love sushi, in the United States I would eat sushi at least once a week at a little 'rolling' stop that had cheap (buck a plate) and delicious sushi.  In France, the sushi culture is still a thing of 'haut culture' so it tends to be more on the expensive side, and even more so sushi is usually ran by Chinese owners- so the quality tends to be different if not mauvaise. Chez moi the sushi joints are usually owned by Japanese or Koreans- which tend to have a more similar culture than the Chinese... but nonetheless I researched.

I've been doing lots of research and here's what I've found for sushi in Lyon at moderate prices:

Sushi King at Le Part-Dieu
Most reviews about this place said that it's not le meilleur but it satisfies the craving for sushi if needed for less expensive than the fancier places.  Tends to be between 4-6 euro for a plate of 6 maki rolls, still not the cheap U.S. prices, but affordable.


Gochi at the 2ème arr.
Gochi has gotten the highest reviews for the most affordable price, their lunch menu is 11.80e and comes with 6 plates roulant or rolling.  The best price is their menu à volonté for only 16e; which means unlimited sushi plates for less than 20 bucks!  Not too shabby...

Ze Sushi in the 2ème arr.
15 pieces of maki for about 13e; definitely not the cheapest place but it's received some top marks on quality and deliciousness.  As always, I recommend going for a mid-day snack, but is possible to go for dinner.  A great side note:  free delivery!  So, you're starving one night at your home and you can just tap out an order on their side and you are golden...

Bo Sushi in Villeurbanne
Average of 8-10e for a lunch time menu of about 10 pieces of sushi.  Not much more to say except it's located a bit far out from the center... and it looks like good quality sushi.

Are there any other recommendations for good sushi places?  These four are the ones I've heard people talkin' about, but there are many many sushi places in Lyon.  The trick is simply picking out the ones that are scams or escrocerie and picking out the ones that are the golden eggs.  Sushi is still a developing taste in France; as as you must know the French are gastronomes and protecting of their own cuisine.  Good luck and happy sushi-ing!

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What-What: The French Breakfast

When I first moved to France we would spend the weekends with Bri's family and they would bring us a typical French breakfast.

In the States we usually have our eggs, toast, bacon and a cup of coffee, sometimes we opt for pancakes or french toast.  In France a typical breakfast is much less food, much more carb and very heavy in fat.

The croissant, the flaky and buttery pastry that is sold all over France and at explosive prices in the States.  The croissant is the most common breakfast pastry in France and is usually eaten simply with a cup of café au lait.

These pastries are exceptionally heavy and often made by layering pastry over pastry smeared with butter.

A famous and delicious variation is called the croissant aux amandes and it is AMAZING.

The pain au chocolat is a variation on the croissant, made with the same ingredients except folded over a few sticks of chocolate.  A fresh pain au chocolat will be melty and seemingly fall apart.

Typically breakfast is light and eaten leisurely, a glass of orange juice can accompagny the breakfast.  If it's not the weekend, it is more common to have some biscottes smeared with butter and jam or some petits madeleines.  As everywhere in the world, one can also eat cereal or toast.. but eggs are always reserved for lunch or dinner.

Pancakes and french toast are considered a dessert and eaten after dinner.. but in my experience the French are open minded and having pancakes for breakfast can be perfectly appropriate (but not typical).  

I often will serve pancakes to Bri on the weekend, usually for brunch.. with some fresh sliced fruit and a nice crème fermière... delicious.

Advice: Gym Solutions

In the States, I am a gym rat, 4-5 times a week I would pound the cardio machines and stress out my muscles with the weights.  About 2 months before I left, my neighborhood gym expanded and turned into a 'Super Fitness Center' for no extra cost to me.  This new gym had a multitude of cardio machines with iPod plug ins and televisions for each person.  All the weight machines were brand new, nothing smelt old and musty and the best part:  steam and dry sauna.  My mom, dad and I would spend at least 2 hours there in the evening... and it felt great.
Zoom 4 months later, July of 2010, and I am in France trying to find a gym in the area.  As I start calling around and getting rates I realize it wouldn't be possible to ever have the gym I had at home.  How much is shocking?  Try 60€ a month... compared to the measly 20$ I paid in the states I knew there was no way.


Now I recently began wondering... why are the prices in the States so cheap for gyms, but so expensive for groceries?  How is it I can go for 20 bucks a month but in France it is upwards of 60€?  What can I do to make up for this?


So I realized I would have to figure out an alternative... and here goes how I keep fit without losing money:


Kinect Fitness

Bri and I received a Kinect for our Xbox360 for Christmas; it's basically like a camera operated game system that detects your moves.  There are two games that I use for fitness:  Kinect Fitness and Dance Central.  The fitness I utilize for yoga, kick boxing and cardio exercises; it is great because it detects your weight/height and helps to provide goals... I burn an average of 200 doing their exercises and I am INCREDIBLY SORE after... meaning it worked.  Dance Central is more for my entertainement workout; the camera detects my moves according to a song... not only am I sweating at the end but I am also learning a new dance.

Home Workout Videos
If you don't own an Xbox nor a Kinect, the next best thing is home videos.  You can find them online or have them sent through a care package from home- I do yoga videos or belly dancing... they are great because you can put them on pause to understand a move... and if you want you can do it in your underwear- can't get that in a gym!  There are also many YouTube channels that are free with these types of exercises.

Inside Home Workouts:
Sometimes we don't need a gym at all to work out... a simple search on Google and here's what I found:  http://www.womenshealthmag.com/fitness/at-home-workouts-0  Basically a listing of some workouts one can do at home... it still works out the body... but without the cost.

Outside Activities: Velo'v
I am personally not a fan of running, I have knee problems due to a fall in September so running is a little to shocking on my knees- however I do love the Velo'v.  I can hop on a bike and go about 5-7 miles a day and it feels like I am zipping along; it still works out your heart and gets your butt/legs in shape.

Avoid the Metro
When running errands try not to utilize the metro... especially if you have some time.  The walking helps to keep the heart rate up... and the faster you walk the better.

Cours de Fitness Collectif
Sometimes you can find special deals on collective fitness classes, like from this:  http://www.cours-fitness-lyon.com/activites.php  They offer September to June prices for only a few hundred euro... much more inexpensive than the gym prices.  Just do a little search for cours de fitness en Lyon and you'll get a listing.. it takes some picking through but there are good deals.


Just Eat Healthy
Staying in shape is difficult.. but it can be even worse when we give into our ultimate French cravings and scarf down the delicious cuisine.  More than 50% of being in shape comes from what we put into our mouths.. while that croissant is good on a Saturday, it's probably best to avoid having one every morning.  I gained the most weight when I ate croissants for breakfast and cheese with every meal... also... cut down the alcohol, this is a huge part... alcohol is heavy on calories and we often don't watch how much we are drinking.  One glass of wine a night is probably the most one should intake on a daily basis.


Good luck.. staying fit is important.. otherwise we return back home and all our families won't recognize us.


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Advice: For the Ladies

*Updated February 21st, thanks to my French friend Caro*

This is going to be a very female-oriented post as I have been having my own personal dilemmas in France regarding many personal things in this category.  I recently had a little worry.. and had to try to hash through my French to figure out where to go, how to ask.. and I realized there was not a lot of helpful information regarding this.. so here goes.

Some 'Female Product' Vocabulary/Explanation:

Tampax/tampons:  Tampons
Serviettes Hygènique:  Pads
Pads and tampons in France are more expensive depending on the brand; for example, Tampax brand is between 3-5e a box.  They offer the same sizings as in the us (from light to super), pads are a bit cheaper and they offers some that are scented- just like at home.  They can be purchased in grocery stores, pharmacies or little open corner stores.

les règles ou j'ai mes règles:  Period (monthly cycle), I have my period

Une crampe/j'ai des crampes:  cramps/I have cramps

Grossesse:  pregnancy
Un test de grosesse:  Pregnancy test
Pregnancy tests are only available upon request from a pharmacy.  It's a bit embarassing, but you basically have to go to the technician and ask for a test (je voudrais un test de grossesse) they cost around 5-6e and work the same way in the States.

Contraception: contraception
Un préservatif:  condoms
Can be found in machines outside of pharmacies, or available at the pharmacy.. not available in small grocery stores, can be available in some larger super stores or groceries.
La pillule contraceptive: birth control pills
Need to have an ordonance(prescription) and can be bought at the pharmacy.  Usually costs 5e for three months of pills.. but apparently, according to my sources, it's more like 30e for three months... reimbursed by the state.  You need to have an ordinance and have it prescrite from any type of doctor.
L'implant:  the implant
placed under the skin in the arm, lasts about 3 years, reimbursed by public health insurance.
Les dispositifs intra-utérins: intra-uterine device
reimbursed by public health insurance

CPEF: les centres de planification familiale:  Center funded by the state to offer contraception free of charge and advice/testing.  Website:  www.sante.gouv.fr

Gynecologue ou Gyneco: Gynecologist
Making an appointment with a gynecologue in France can be unnerving.. and the actual visit (from what I've read) is equally unpleasant.  Upon the visit, you will be completely naked (no nice little dress to cover up) and you yourself will send the results to the laboratory and receive the results at home.  Two names I heard were good in Lyon:  Mme Lavanga, 168 cours lafayette (04.72.61.15.97) and Mme Levallois, 12 rue emile zola (04.78.42.40.16) and Mme Dubost Hocquart close to Foch metro station.
Good gynos are booked quickly, so if it's an emergency try a Women's Hospital.




If you have made a mistake, condom broke, missed a pill.. France is very liberal with options:
Contraception d'urgence:  Emergency contraception

la pillule sur lendemain:  the day after pill
Available from the pharmacy, simply explain that you need emergency contraception in the form of this pill.  The brand is often EllaOne, it will work up to 3 days after the mistake. It's not considered a bad thing in France, but it can be dangerous... so it's not sold freely (meaning without a lot of explanation).


l'avortement: abortion
There are clinics around the city that can help you, I don't know if it is required to make an appointment or not- but I do know the abortion must be done within 12 weeks of initial implantation.  Website:  http://www.ra-sante.com/ivg-lyon.html


That's a lot of information to digest, but it's information I had to figure out myself.  I hope this helps ladies coming to France.  Bonne chance et courage!

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