Midnight in Lyon..

It's been one year and a half that I've lived in Lyon, and I realized recently that I've never discovered or lived in Lyon alone!

Bri is in Paris starting his new job and apartment hunting, I'm stuck in Lyon for my Master's program until the beginning of February... and so yesterday I decided to go and venture around my city.

I'd never been to the Musée Gadagne since I moved to Lyon, but I mean a free entrance to a museum for a Lyon Gastronomie display?  I couldn't resist.  I packed a compote and a bottle of water, my journal and my walking boots; off I was on my very own to a Lyonnais museum!

Les Toques Blanches de Lyon (in my garden!)

It was lovely to walk through the city at my own pace, in silence, listening to the people around me.  It was in the actual exhibit that I was enamoured, posters of food, photos of the famous Cuisiniers and Cuisinières, I looked at every single detailed menu, watched every black and white video.  The exhibit is not that impressive, in regards to actual 'gastronomy', but there were a few things I picked up on and tucked away in my journal:

When visiting the musée Gadagne, I can almost imagine myself with the famous Gourmands of Lyon.  A sort of "Midnight in Lyon", instead of the 'high time' with artists and painters in Paris, it is a Golden Age of eating and gourmandises.  Lyon was for foodies what Paris was for artists... while artists and writers were indulging in social abnormalities, the foodies were just doing what they do best... eating!

Even though Julia Child mentions that Paris was an amazing culinary hot-spot, even the great Curnosky wrote, Lyon est la capitale mondiale de gastronomie.  Can't argue with the Prince of Gourmand!

La Mère Brazier

I was amazed at the culinary freedom of the 1920's and 1930's and longed to jetset back in time to sit at a table with Mère Brazier, Mère Fillioux and Curnosky...

What's more incredible is the feminism so prevalent in this era- why do I say this?  Because women truly were the creators of the Lyon Gastronomy!  I stared at the photos, imagining the times... there was respect to these women because they could cook.  These women, the lost generation of the culinary world in Lyon were the epitomy of feminism.  Enormous amounts of respect were doted upon their culinary confections, and they remain important and engrained in Lyon history!

So potentially in France... if you can cook you can earn respect?

But what is up with this whole Lyon cuisine?  What was amazing was the distinctive contrast between the Bourgeois dishes (Brasserie Georges, etc) and the typical Bouchon (la Mère Jean) also known as La Cuisine Guignolesque which was for the hard workers.  One of the videos in the museum shows a report wandering around and asking locals:

Reporter:  Pensez-vous d'être un gourmand?

Man 1: Tout à fait que oui, nous sommes des plus grandes gourmands ici à Lyon... on adore les choses bonnes à manger, les cochonnailles, la viande... du vin.. du fromage...

Report: (Same question)

Older Woman: Mais oui!  Je suis une gourmande.. j'adore à manger!

I am not a personal fan of Bocuse... who has taken the idea of being a Foodie and capitalised it until it's just a bunch of carbon-copy restaurants with little or no creativity.  I love the simple, local, bouchons... with a pot du vins and a tender quenelle.

Les Toques Blanches.. les mères de Lyon.. Oh la la!

This move is going to be tough.

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House Hunter's International: Video!

So, I have a fabulous Cousin in California who was able to figure out the DVr to Internet thing and, guess what... The video from my House Hunter's International experience is now online!!

Now all those in Europe without access to HGTV can see who I am exactly.

A warning, the video portrays me as a bit "catty"; in fact at times I seem like an outright Princess- they decided to cut it in that way and take out the parts where I seemed nice... at least that's what I tell myself.

Any ways, in watching myself and feedback... I've considered starting a video blog from the beginning of February (my move to Paris).  Internet is such a fabulous thing, I feel like I can give advice better via a visual process.

Enjoy!  (The video takes a few minutes to load)

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/kmGlwRnh7IR7NN2FaWu

Inspiration from Julia Child

As I was re-watching yet another episode of “The French Chef”, I couldn’t help but realize that I was literally following in the same footsteps of “The Chef” herself.  See, according to her book, “My Life in Paris”, (which I’ve only read, let’s say 5 or 6 times… until it got destroyed by a toilet flood.  I was willing to save it, but the wilted cover and the reeking pages told me not too.) Julia Child has to follow her love Paul around the world for his government attaché position.

Granted Julia had about 25 years on me, a gigantesque apartment overlooking the waterfront on “Roo de Loo”, and a much larger disposable income for all of the beautiful copper pots and pans Paul was willing to indulge, I find myself coming to the end of a séjour in my own little Paris.  In less than 3.5 weeks I will find myself kitchenless, gadgetless and about 200 sq ft less in the actual city of Paris.. for what other reason than to follow my Government workin’ Bri… and of course to discover new opportunities of my own… I could never be “one of those American housewives that sit around the house WONDERING what to do!” Like Julia I must be kept busy, find my passion.

What’s fabulous however is now I get to discover the “Real Paris”.  My fear, however, is that the Paris painted in such a romantic way by Julia’s interpreter (she was older when she got around to talking about her life) will only leave me exasperated and gulping for air.  All of the culinary delights that I would have wanted to discover have only been publicized and commercialized.  I looked at potentially going to that famous Cordon Bleu, but unlike Julia Child, when faced with the price I couldn’t just say, “Le prix est peu important!” I quickly clicked the x button on that window.

Bri keeps telling me that I have a talent, that it’s more than just “You cook because we have to eat, it’s like you cook because you love to cook!”, It’s true that I have always had a passion for cooking.  I remember being a toddler and crawling into my mother’s spice cupboard to stick my little nose in the spice rack.  I’d close my eyes, take a deep smell and remember the name… of course there were times it was a bad idea (like the big whiff of Cayenne Pepper). So maybe this change will spark even more of the passion in my soul, perhaps I will shout from the Parisien rooftops “Bon APPETIT!”

So as the countdown continues and my days in Lyon are numbered I am trying to look through the eyes of Julia Child… I mean Julia would never have been Julia without her perseverance, intelligence, ability to adapt to any situation, optimism… and of course Paul Child.

Who knows, maybe I can become the next generation of Julia… of course it would only transpire the passion and never be capable of meeting the same level… there are just too many wanna-be gastronomes… although I would love to be the founder of the next Gourmandes, except this time for the young gourmands.

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New Year's Eve + Bri's Depart

It's 2012 and I am only reminded of 2010 when Bri and I were separated for 8 months while I finished my Undergraduate in Oregon.  It was a ridiculously difficult time and as I kissed him goodbye today all the feelings of the 'goodbyes' and the 'see you soons' came rushing back like a dam refilling with water.

I have plenty to do, plenty to study for, plenty to prepare for... but I can only think that I'll be living off of 'sad person soup' for the next few days (I made a giant pot yesterday) and studying on my own.

To remember the good times I have to talk about my New Year's Eve!  It is the 3rd New Year's Eve in France and my 4th in Europe... and it was a great celebration.

Normally we spend it tucked away in Genas with the parents, a little 'coupette' of Champagne and a fabulous dinner.  This year, considering Bri would be leaving, we decided to spend some time with his close friends and welcome the new year with tons of food and smiling faces.

Me, Olivier (Bri's closest friend), and I THINK Clement?

As we all spoke in French and they ooed and awed over my "good french", I equally complemented their Frenglish and we chined and chined until we were so drunk we could barely walk straight.

Two Hostesses: Tiphane and her sister!

It was a shared cost meal, and without saying we truly enjoyed the night with close friends.

Me, Bri and Olivier... Bri was very happy!

The most difficult of course, was the next day.  A bit of a hangover, a large lunch... yikes.

2012 came and passed, then the sad day of Bri's departure was fast arriving.  As would any 'victim' I prepared him a 'last meal' upon request.

"Feuilleté des Escargots"

Porc Roti (cocotte) and Gratin Daupinois

Chocolate Lava Cake

Bri leaves.... :(

So, he left yesterday morning on the 10am train to Paris... and now I have to wait... in the mean time- hair appointment on Thursday!  Partiel exams for two weeks! Plan to go and get my Carte de Séjour (yuck).  There is literally so much to do, it feels like time in Lyon is already slipping through my fingers...

So here it goes, 2012!

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House Hunter's International Tryout Video

Today (10:30pm Central time) HGTV aired our show we filmed in September 2011.

For those who don't have cable, here was our video we sent in to get selected:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5Yqxub5aHA&feature=youtu.be

Vive la France!!

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2011: Récapulatif (Recap)

Tomorrow evening will mark the end to another year in France, but not just the end of 'another year', but the beginning of a new year.  It feels so distant the day I grabbed my two suitcases and jetted across the Atlantic on a warm June day, the tears that sprung up as I kissed my parents, and my American life, goodbye.

Looking back at 2010 posts, I realized that 2011 was not only the year I learned to adjust to the culture... but the year that I really found my balance and my language ability.  When I first came to France I could barely put a proper sentence together, now I am completing a French business Master's degree, in French, with an average of 13/20 (basically a B).  There have been bad times, good times, in between times... but I have more of a sense of nostalgia as I wave goodbye to 2011 because it marks the end of my séjour in Lyon and the beginning of my life in Paris.

I never had plans to pack up house for Paris, as I complain and groan I imagine the millions of Americans who dream to live in Paris... and yes it is exciting- but I love my life in Lyon. All the discoveries that I have made, the maps I have put together to survive, the 'favorites' I have found.

It marks also the beginning of my 'adult hood', my student life is wrapping up nicely and the next steps are to find a big girl job (put lovely by my good Brit friend Katie) and grow up.

So what happened memorable in 2011?

I believe the best way to remember is to break it down...

January

• Learned the French emergency number by heart... as Bri passed out face first at 3AM in the morning from a fever, and I freaked out.  Sad to say I grabbed the phone and put it to his face crying, "What's the number!! I can't explain what happened to you!!" Which is when I promised myself to become fluent. I can't rely on Bri for everything.

February

• Got hired for an Internship!

March

• So uneventful I ended up writing about Instant Coffee and how horrible it is.

April

• Learned the appropriate way to write a Letter of Motivation

May

• Worked, another completely uneventful month

June

• Discovered the true difference between our 'respect the elder' culture and the 'dog eat dog' culture of France

July

• Went to my first concert in Lyon, even better in an ancient Roman amphithéâtre!
• First visit to a gynecologist- yikes
• First hair cut in France

August

• Vacation to Barcelona with the French Fam... in-laws will always be in-laws in any culture

September

• Celebrated my 24th birthday with my Mom at my side, unlimited frog legs and a beautiful Birthday cake

October

• Started my French international business management Master, learned that the education system is completely different than in America

November

• Went to my first French-French party by myself, got totally tipsy but made it back home in time for the last métro.

December

• Bri accepted for position at the Senate, realization I'll be moving in TWO months to Paris.
• +2 kilos

Now the question is.... did I complete my 2011 to do list?  Let's see... here's from my list in the beginning of the year, things with the cross out are complete.. of course I added some commentary.

1. Lose the 10 lbs I probably gained during French Christmas   Did this, but gained it back Christmas 2011
2. Start walking fast..  x Sort of necessary when living in France
3. Start jogging.. Okay.. NO....
4. Start running..  Definitely NO!
5. Try to do some yoga videos a few times a week  Haha, It's amazing what we aspire to do... NO
6. Learn a complicated French recipe  Totally made Julia Child's Boeuf Bourguignon AND mastered pâte à choux!
7. Invite a group of 5 to the apartment for dinner  Totally made an awesome pork roast, in my 'microwave'!
8. Try to buy veggies at marché as much as possible..  Most every weekend we wandered out..
9. Going with #8, try to get up at normal hours   Except during vacations...
10. Pay closer attention to my friends  Made some new onces, tended to the old ones.. SUCCESS!
11. Do a good job for my new job  Did fabulously, then got hired in another position.
12. Try to keep apartment in suitable condition for living  Laundry regularily, dinner every night..
13. Go on a Beaujolais tour  Ooops... eh... NO!
14. Try to go for brisk evening walk after dinner with Brian each night  No, but it's Bri's fault not my own!
15. Get into a Master's program and get visa renewed  CHECK!
16. Take more pictures to share with family  Take more pictures? Yes.  Share with family? No.
17. Replace the toilet paper when it runs out- I never do.  Still don't.
18. Try to pay the basics and then.. pay off my credit cards  Don't use credit cards any more.. thanks for helping out mom!
19. Learn a new dance  Sure... the kitchen dance..!
20. Get into one of those fancy French clubs  Still to be done...
21. Plan something epic for our 2 year anniv'  We ate frogs, that is epic.
22. Try some new French cheese  I regretted it.
23. Totally shop at the marchés, veggie market, boucheries, boulangeries and fromageries... no more American shopping!  Although sometimes I am a bit lazy...
24. Call my brother back in the States at least 4-5 times a week  Eek.. eh....
25. Study my French more often and make an effort to speak 'en Français' with Bri  Moitié/Moitié!
26. Make more unique meals  I'd say!
27. Write all the books that I've been keeping in my head  Okay... so.. I am a procrastinator..
28. Write more advice columns and get back on board with the daily bloggin'!  Hmmm Daily????

Okay so 18/28 complete?  Not too shabby.. tomorrow I'll bring out my 2012 list.  It will be énorme.

Man 2012 is freakin' me out.. but I only see good things (minus the change from 700 sq ft to 350 sq ft for double the price...)

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Not so Green Lyon

When I was living in Portland I always considered Europe to be this magical place- I was told by an exchange student that lived with us when I was 16 that Public Transportation was abundant, recycling not simply a concept but a way of life.

I had a fabulous presentation in my Master's program late Friday afternoon from a renowed Quebecian nature lover and guest teacher.  Fabien Durif flew in from his corner of Canada, his slightly twanging Quebecois accent and a slew of ideas my fellow collegues had never heard.

Movement Vert
Green Washing
Consommation Responsable
Ecotourism
Organics

After saying 'Vert' about 20 times someone in the class finally raised his hand and inquired, "Messieur, qu'est-ce que c'est cette chose verte que vous parlez?" The teacher stopped short, and explained briefly.  Of course this movement doesn't EXIST in France, it's simply a way of life... or is it?

Portland was always sort of top when it came to the Green Movement of the early 2000's, we had electric busses, a sort of recycling system that was foreward-moving.  I was taught how to maintain a compost in my apartment when I moved off by myself at 19, a lovely plastic box that magically transformed my waste into useable plant dirt.

Bri made me throw this away when he moved in with me May of 2009, he said it was disturbing to sleep in the apartment knowing there were worms in a vox- well to each his own.

You can imagine my shock when I moved to Lyon and was struck by a city that knew little of recycling or even how to lighten the carbon footprint.

Now, Europe, specifically Lyon, has their own methods and styles of what they call 'green', or in French éco.  I am constantly being pointed out that the Americans leave the water running during showers, or our wasteful use of electricity when we leave the house.

So in what ways does Lyon recycle and in what ways really need to be improved?


What They Do Well:

Organic Produce

Tuesday through Sunday are the market days, vendors, farmers and local producers haul out their natural and edible goods for us to purchase at a normal price.  The positive is that many of these producers are naturally organic or bio and leave us with a fabulous, non-treated product.

Recycling
An automatic response when I see someone throwing away a carboard box or can is, That is recyclable! My mother had ingrained it into my head, she would fish out any paper I would throw away and I was disgusted... of course now 7 years later I do the same.  In Lyon we have a recycling system in our apartment building, nice because you can toss all recyclables together into a giant container... the issue?

Showering in France
Water is truly seen as a resource in the eyes of a European so much so that when showering we have a five step process:

1. Turn water on, get water all over
2. Turn water off
3. Lather up with soap while water is off
4. Turn water on
5. Rinse

Usually the water only remains on for a total of 7 minutes, unlike our 20-30 minute showers in the United States.  This is the argument from most French people when I mention the 'green'ness of Americans, they can't see how we are green if we are so wasteful with a resource.  They are right.

The next is the consumption of electricity,

Lights Out
Bri was appalled at our waste of electricity in the US, and I see why.  In France we shut everything off in the evening, when we leave the house, when we are not in a room.  Electricity is very expensive so wasting it tends to not even be an option.  It's almost an anal-rententive reaction, every time you leave a room switch it off.  Eventually, it becomes ingrained into your mentality and you feel strange if a light is on in a room and no one is in it.

Velo'v System
Probably one of the greastest innovations in Europe, the Velo'v system, which originated in Lyon, has revolutionized public transportation by facilitating a bike-share system that is affordable and convenient for users.  For a fee of 15€ a year, a user has 30 minutes each trajet and the possibility to return at any depot.  Still waiting for an effective system like this in Portland.

Public Transportation
Europe is truly the master of public transport, never have I had an issue with a bus or a tramway or even an underground subway.  Fabulous system, mediocre priced... again much more adept to the green movement than in US.

To Be Improved:

Recycling
These containers are non-existant around the city.  When you drink a disposable coffee cup you have no choice but to toss in a normal trash can on the street.  There are more and more "dual trash cans" with the choice between yellow and green (yellow recyclable, green waste) but many people don't use this system effectively.

Organic Produce
Like in America, there has been this movement for Bio and Green Washing; this movement has left many store brands to stick a green label on the product without really even having proof... this label guarantees an augmentation of price between 10-25% above market price and... well needless to say it's not truly the concept of the green movement.

Composting
There is a non-existent system of composting in France that is left to be improved, while in San Francisco there are canisters of composting buckets that accepts any organic material to be composted, in Lyon I have found no way to get rid of material of this sort.

Over-all Lyon is ahead, but not the best in Europe... in fact I see piles of plastic cups sitting around in canisters and no composting... but I think the Green Fever is going to catch on and it won't be just a fad. 

Adventures in the Metro

Living in a large European city teaches you many different things such as: get used to that 15 minute walk with heavy groceries, or, don't make eye contact with that scraggly looking group of youth, or even, be friends with your butcher.


The one thing I still haven't mastered since my year and a half in Lyon is What To Do On the Métro.

Public transportation is inevitable, even if I wanted to avoid the bus or the underground subway line I couldn't!  You see, even with the fabulous bike share system and the potential to walk anywhere with my two feet- the métro is juste faster and easier.

Or is it?

In Lyon there are 4 lines of the underground Métro system, 2 lines of forniculars, 4 lines of over-ground tramway system, a multitude of electric buses and and ever more selection of bus lines.  All information is available from the TCL Website.

Today's focus will be: The Underground Métro:

Line A, or the RED LINE goes from Perrache in the center to Vaulx-en-Valin la Soie (or whatever on the spelling) out on the East side of Lyon.  This line utilizes the typical system, a dude sitting and driving it.  However, this also causes some issues in regards to timing. The driver will sometimes wait at a stop, more than necessarily, probably picking his French teeth or laughing his French laugh.  This wait makes us all uncomfortable, and everyone begins to be aware of time passing- watches are checked ever 20 seconds, feet start tapping with impatience...

Line B, or the BLUE LINE goes from Stade de Gerland to Charpennes.  Basically a great line to avoid unless being transferred to the Centre Commercial de la Part-Dieu which is necessary when taking a train, doing Christmas shopping.. or even going to a Football Match (Stade de Gerland).

Line C, or the ORANGE LINE (really looks yellow, but I'm not picky) goes from Hôtel de Ville to La Croix Rousse.  It's a really odd métro line, why do I say this?  Because it resembles a sort of fornicular or cable car.  Everything is in a sort of slanted angle, when on the métro you have to do a sort off lean forward in order to not fall on your neighbor.  La Croix Rousse is up on a hill, so logic tells you the Métro is basically climbing a hill.  Same as the RED LINE, the ORANGE LINE has a manual driver which switches every end stop, and takes at least 7 minutes to start up.  But, a lot easier to take the métro than walk up the giant hills of the Croix Rousse.

Line D, or the GREEN LINE, goes from Gare de Vaise to Gare de Vénissieux.  Neither of the Gares is a nice place to be, so at my advice I use the Green line to get closer to Ikea (in St. Priest), get to Vieux Lyon... and that's about it.  Oh, word to the wise:  This line is a-u-t-o-m-a-t-e-d!  This means there is like a 5 minute passing period, if it's at the stop... RUN!  Once the beeping starts, you better jump into the train otherwise you will be waiting an efficient 3 minutes for the next one.

What to Do On the Métro, and What NOT To Do
Getting on the métro can be a terrible experience for those unprepared.  Between 4PM and 6PM every day there is a sudden flux of individuals all pressing to get home for dinner.  Baguettes stick people in the bum, bags are shoved into your chest, and with the métros having a limit of people- well that disappears.  If you want to catch a métro you must go in elbows first. Don't be afraid to push and jump into the craziness!  So:

Rule #1:  Elbows First.

Then you're on the métro, you have some posters glued along the side panels, lovely flourescent lights lining the ceiling.  Most likely a smelly homeless man shoved away in the corner, smelling grotesquely like an ogre.  There will probably be a group of hoodlums hanging in the corner and shouting to each other.  Now the question is, where to go?  If you have enough room to elbow through to a safe spot... In this case:

Rule #2: Find the Grandma.

So you've successfully gotten into the métro, situated yourself next to Grandma.  One thing is clear from this moment,

Rule #3: Look Anywhere but Other People's Eyes, AKA Avoid Eye Contact

Look any where else, that poster you've read a million times, your iPhone game, your hang nails.  Many French people will occupy themselves by chewing on their nails- if you want to avoid a terrible habit simple count the lines in the ceiling.  It is difficult to find things to do on the métro, but everyone is in the same position.

Looking around, you'll notice how hard everyone is trying to look anywhere but in someone's eyes.  On the métro, even though you're practically in your neighbor, it's as if we don't really exist in the same place.

Now, your stop is arriving...

Rule #4: Elbows Out to Exit the Métro

Don't let them French people get you stuck, just shout clearly, "excusez-MOI!" and elbow them.

Or you could always just get a year pass to Velo'V and bike it!

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Culture Shock: Things I Miss... Top 11

It's been more than one year since I've lived in France, recalling that I came with weak conversation skills and an open mind, one can't help getting homesick.  I thought recently, what is it that I truly miss? You know everyone has their weaknesses, the French I've met over the years displaced in Portland talk non stop about great baguettes or cheese.

For me I decided to compile a list, mostly to remember what's back at home and also a sort of 'To Do' checklist of things I want to do next summer if I can get back.

Starts with the Top Ten (Plus One).

1. My Family. I received news over the weekend that my Grandfather is dying of cancer.  I had to call him from my ligne fixe and say goodbye over the phone.. it made me truly miss my family, my dad, my mom... my sister and my brother.  There is never a day that doesn't go by that it's difficult to not pick up the phone and say, Hey let's meet for lunch!
2. My girlfriends. I had a close group of 4 girls that I'd been friends with since high school, one of which is a friend of about 10 years.  I am missing all their drama, drunken nights, our adventures around Portland.
3. Portland. My city, my hometown.  While Lyon is charming in it's classy city life, Portland was so clean and fresh... a city of artists and nature lovers.  I worry I will go back and everything will have changed, hopefully for the positive.
4. Taco Bell. Judge me if you must, but there is something familiar in those greasy tacos I'd buy at 3am in the morning with my girlfriends...
5. Good Indian food. Sorry but Lyon has not impressed me in her Indian food, everything cultural in regards to foreign foods is completely "Frenchized', bread added to the menu, fois gras tossed into the sushi, bagels smeared with roquefort (YUCK).
6. Good Sushi. Again, there's is something seriously wrong when my sushi has Fois Gras in it.  Mayonnaise? Good lord.  I just want a freakin' maki that's not 4€ a plate of 6 sushis.  I miss that cheap sushi that I could buy that was great quality.
7. Real Happy Hour.  Oh man, can't even say how much I miss a Portland brew and a plate of greasy corn dogs and fries for only 5€.  I has just discovered happy hour for a year before I left to live in France, and in France... you know what Happy Hour is?  Discounts on drinks, but no food.
8. Food Carts.  Yes, we got pizza carts and kebab carts, but no, not that awesome phenomenon from Portland... where at any hour in the night or day there's a cart set up with your heart's content of food.  Vegan tacos? Yes.  Greasy putine? Yes.
9. Food Network. Enough said.
10. Take Out Bags.  Man I miss going to a restaurant and having too much, then having leftovers for breakfast.  I'd be laughed out of a restaurant if I ever asked for a 'doggy bag'.
11. American People. Yes, I know, we are nationalistic, we are fake and sometimes way too much but I miss that sometimes.. that whole comfortable way of talking to eachother. I miss not having to decide when to say vous and when it's appropriate to not? C'est compliqué. Man I miss being able to be myself in my language.

Can you tell I was hungry when I wrote this?  Are there things you miss?

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Day in the Life of a Masters Student in France

Well, it's a give-in that a Master's degree is difficult... I never assumed stepping into a year intensive course would be a piece of cake or walk in the flower garden. Of course I was utterly unprepared for the sheer force that has presented itself to me in the form of a Master's degree in France. The amount of classes, reading, theoretical studying, application theories, group or team projects.

I simply thought I'd bundle up the feeling in the Day in the Life post just so it's clear how hard it is.

I'll take a Monday as an example, which tends to be the day I have a crise and ask myself: why, why, WHY!!!


7:00am - alarm blares. I don't want to get up, bed is warm, but need to make coffee if ever going to make it through the day. I hit the snooze and jump up at 8am stressed already. As my coffee brews I surf for about 5 minutes and then jump into some team work and studying. Around 9am I decide I can't go to school in my pajamas, so I shuffle through clothes I managed to wash over the weekend and splash some cold water on my pufft eyes. I figure just mascara is okay today.

9:40am - Bri clings to me and tries to make me late, I think it is some form of French conspiracy, he is always late therefore I should be to. I peel him off, quick peck goodbye and shoot out the door to barely make it to class by..

10:00am - Class starts. I am feeling terribly rusty in my French and the teach is rapid fire spitting out theories left and right, I note as fast as my hand will allow as this is the teach that refuses computers. In her own words, "je suis vielle France, pas des ordinateurs." Lovely. I scratch out words, highlight and in the end it looks like a 5 year old art project with a scattering of question marks here and there.

11:30am - break. 60% of the class heads outside to smoke. I eyeball the cigarettes warily and now understand why stressed people start.

12:00pm - More rapid fire French. Explication of some project we are doing with the region that has no plan and no direction, but for us to figure it out.

1:00pm - Brian brings me lunch, I eat for 15 minutes and then cry and whine for 45 minutes. Some key words: I'll never pass.

2:00pm - comes too quickly. Today is a work day so I get my first taste of a reunion in France. We have an issue to work through and we crash our brains trying to hash it out. My French is still warming up so it feels like the most I offer is mmhmm or oui bonne idee. The student teacher rolls over and critics us as well as adding a dash of criticism over my writing abilities in French. I feel like switching to English and being all like- "oh bitch, no you didn't!". All our work after 3 hours is apparently crap so we all feel defeated, my brain decides not to cooperate and I say screw it and head to work..

5:30pm - work starts. Nothing eventful except I mention dropping my resignation letter and I get an email saying I owe 200 bucks for an accounting error on an insurance policy that was required that I never even used. I now regret not going to the dentist or something.

6:00pm - realize I have about 4 people to present to instead of the usual 3. My French now decides to cooperate but I think it's just simple exhaustion.  As I get on a roll, I realize about halfway through my presentation how exhausted I actually am.  As all 4 students listen and nod, I feel sort of on auto drive... thankfully I have had experiences in theater so it's sort of like acting... I guess..

7:20pm - finally done with presentation.  Mouth is starting to hurt from the focus on trying to pull off a less American accent.  I plop in front of my work screen and brain shuts off.  Go through the motions until...

8:00pm - why isn't the student done with their lab work yet?? I go and tap on their shoulder.

8:20pm - student finally wanders out, I grab my bags and drag myself home.

8:40pm - come home, Bri clings to me as I try to shuffle around the kitchen and pull some fragments of a meal together.

9:00pm - something is plated.  I eat, without really tasting it.

10:00pm - drag myself to bed, try to read a little bit for my class, type up some notes and then I am out.

And.  That is my life at the moment.

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Release of the New Petit Paumé!

Hey all!

I received an email from one of the organizers from Petit Paumé... apparently the new season has just arrived and it is time.. to pick up.. your new french copy.....!

If you have no idea what Petit Paumé is, check out my post from a few months back:  The Petit Paumé.

Basically to summarize it's a special Lyon based guide and discount booklet for all those living in Lyon.  Pretty much a fabulous way to save cash and get some awesome advice (not to mention pratice le skills françaises) the new 2012 season has officially arrived.

Where to get a copy?

Well my little Petit-Paumé bird, Etienne, has informed me that next weekend on October 8th, starting at 12h30, Place Bellecour, free copies will be distributed until they have run out.

I have to work that day, but I've decided to send Bri out to get my copy in my absence.

Enjoy the savings and réductions!

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What-What: Le Jardin des Dombes

Hidden in a non-descript alley in la Croix Rousse in Lyon is a restaurant that I have fallen head over heels for.  How could one not be in love when there is a menu for 25 euros for a dish of unlimited frog legs?

Of course, today being my big 24th birthday I decided the best way to celebrate was to haul my Mom and Bri to an all-you-can-eat frog leg palace and make it worth it.  I mean, all you can eat buffets are one thing, but an endless supply of frog legs are a rarity in France... plus seeing Bri's eyes go wide with joy only makes the experience even better.

Le Jardin des Dombes was the first restaurant I searched in France when I had a huge craving for frog around our anniversary in February.  I was even more excited to drag my American mother into the local restaurant and share the experience of sucking tiny little frog bones and waddling home with a stomach coated in butter and parsley.  Plus what better way to enjoy her last Sunday in France, and my goal to truly profit and get as round as possible before I end up having to study all the time.

We crawled up to the restaurant, only taking slight detours to purchase some pastries for my birthday, and sitting down I looked at the young waiter and simply stated, on va prendre trois de votre menu grenouille à volonté. He smiled, nodded and collected our menus.

Quickly we smelt the frying of the legs and a giant dish was placed in front of our faces.  Brian dished out the frogs and gave a short presentation on our frog eating skills, pull apart this leg, take of this meat, suck on that part. Soon enough we were in a feeding frenzy of frog dipping our bread into the sauce and eating the tiny sticks of meat.

Amazingly, as a Sunday, it was packed and full of families sucking down frog.  I leaned over the edge of the upstairs seating area to watch the older couples eating together.  I looked at Bri, I want to be like that, and after the 3rd plate of frogs we were filled.

Toss in a couple of pots du vin and mix in a serving of home made ice cream and we were stuffed.  The best part of the restaurant however, was the conversation afterwards.  I smiled at the young waiter and the chef who had wandered upstairs (we were the last); Est-ce que c'est bien un restaurant familial ici? The chef nodded, warmly and pointed to the young waiter, Il est mon fils et ma soeur, elle travaille ici des fois aussi donc, ouais, c'est familial ici.  I nodded and added, j'adore ça, j'adore les entreprises qui sont familials, etc.  As the chef wandered downstairs, I sparked a conversation with the waiter and he asked, vous venez d'où exactement? I replied, les états-unis, je suis une américaine, I mentioned my Master, he joked about the difference between Lyon 2 and Lyon 3.

The joys of the Jardin des Dombes were over as quickly as they started and I waved as I left.

Experiences in life are as quickly as they start, c'est la vie, and so I realized in the little family restaurant up in the Croix Rousse that typical French family environment...

Also, word to the wise, the menu isn't translated.  That way we know it's good.

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I'm Californian French! (Bus Adventures)

Est-ce que c'est bien le bus pour Bellecour? The little old lady asked me, curiousity on her face.  I tried to explain back that yes, it would go to the center which was indeed Bellecour.

She stared at me behind her large black sunglasses and said, "Anglaise?" I smiled, used to this question and shook my head, "Non, Américaine!".

She paused, I thought perhaps I used too much gusto in the American statement and waited for her to respond. She threw her hands up smiling, "I'm American!... well French Californian!" as if California were it's own country.  Her strong French accent led me to believe she was instead a crazy old French lady who was mocking me.

I nodded and said, "that's nice" and was ready to turn to stare at the seat in front of me... except she continued.

Not only did she continue, she talked all the way to Bellecour.

"I moved to California in 1959, can you imagine?  I lived there 50 years and had this... how do you say... urge to move back and see Lyon.  I am so disappointed with Lyon, it was nothing as I remember.  The city has gotten dirty, the people are mean.  I love Americans!  I think younger French want to go to America... and I understand why."

I nodded and agreed, it was true, French culture was a shock to me... but I love Lyon equally as I do my own city in Oregon.  I asked her where she lived in California;

"Well, I don't want to BRAG or anything, but I lived in Beverly Hills... I'm no millionaire but I do have money for an old woman.  I had a great life there, Beverly Hills was so wonderful... you know I never took the bus in LA, I drove everywhere... I had this lovely big car.  I married a man from IOWA, can you believe it, an Iowan.  It was fabulous my life in California... my family.  Now be honest, you hate France don't you?  I can see it in your eyes!  It's okay to admit it, I hate it here too.  See?  Now Americans are all afraid to say what they think until they realize I understand!"


I just nodded, in a way I didn't like Lyon but in a huge way I did. Our bus got to our stop and she stopped talking, looked over and said, "Well dear, that's our stop.. nice talking to you," and she blows an air kiss and steps off the bus.  No exchange

She was probably around 70 years old, visiting her home town... disappointed and feeling betrayed as if she left a dream and came back to nothing.

Adventures in public transportation are so interesting.

Culture Shock: The Dreaded Prefecture

It's 5:30 in the morning, I glance at my iPhone clock not registering that I'm supposed to be up in a matter of minutes. I decide to quiet the alarm, just to close my eyes for a few more minutes. Silence. The alarm blasts, 6:15 in the morning. I'm exhausted and there's a pit in my stomach I know I have to head down to the prefecture in 20 or so minutes. Last time I was too late, I arrived only 1 hour early and the line was shocking. I cried because they turned me down at the door, telling me il n'y a plus des tickets pour les étudiants.

This time I was prepared, I packed a book, a sitting towel, if needed some water and pims. I thought about the 2 hour wait as I gulped down my cereal without tasting it- stones in milk really. Sustenance.  I kept thinking about all the times I've had to wait, at airports, in line, hoping it won't be too horrendous.

I decide to avoid the bus. I grab, magically, the only bike available on my street. As if something, somewhere was giving me a karmic break. As I bike I feel the stone grow heavy, doubts creep into my mind: what if there are even more people waiting? What if I'm too late again? What if i'm aggressed while waiting? What if I have to pee?

I park my bike and stride to my destination, there are already 20 or so people lined up, either sitting or pressed against the wall. I pull into the line, spread my blue towel on the dirt ground and take my place.  I look curiously around at the crowd, mostly a mix of Chinese students prolonging their visas and asile or 'asylum' internationals looking to stay under the safety of France.  We are all miserable, exhausted and bored.

Tell me, how is it such an organized country like France can be so underdeveloped in regards to their visa visitors.  No reservations ahead of time, wait in line and fight for a place. Those that come in late somehow get a place in the front, most likely greasing some people who camp out over night. It's truly a gamble- how late can I be until ts too late? One time I was able to get there at 8am and served by 12... It's a variable situation with no alternative. Students, victims of other countries and other such issues are dealt with in one understaffed building in the 3ème arrondissement in Lyon. If the tickets run out you won't be served that day no matter how long you wait.
It's already 28 degrees, I'm thankful they open at 9am. I literally feel the humanity peeling off as I tense up and glare at those passing in front of me.

Finally 9am rolls around, I stand, stretching the stifness out of my legs.  The door is having issues, we are blocked outside for antoher 20 minutes.


Inside, I don't get served until 11:00 am.  Bri brings me a chilled mocha, I drink at it dazed, exhausted.  By the time I leave it has been 4.5 hours since I arrived in the line.


It was one of the worst experiences. Ever.

Time in Lyon

There exists a strange phenomenon in the Lyon side of France in regards to time.  A meeting that is supposed to start at 2pm starts around 2:30pm and that meeting that should be one hour goes for about two hours.

The strange occurence spreads into the restaurants or meal times between the family.  That meal that usually lasts about one hour in the states grows, easily, into a 3 hour drinking and eating frenzy in which, at the end, you forget your name, you feel like you are about to explode or you do something stupid and drink that digestif that carries out for a whole nother hour.

The idea of being en retard is just simply a way of life, usually when I plan to meet someone and I say a time, I imagine myself adding 15 minutes to my *always on time* self in order to arrive at the same time.  Living with a true Lyonnais I am more than aware that it is more than an anomaly, it's simply a way of being.

The most annoying to my American ideals is when it comes time to choose a restaurant to eat at.  We wander around the street, talking, saying "Maybe here?  Here?".  By the time we do eat I am starving, my stomach hurts, my legs hurt and I chug down my aperitif to try and get some sustenance in my system.

So, in Lyon, always prepare for the time.

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Things to Do: Picnic in the Park

As promised from my 'bread' post I want to share the secrets to a perfect picnic in Lyon.  Nothing is as uncomplicated but yet so enjoyable as a fabulous picnic between friends.  Here's what you'll need:

• Friends:  You can picnic alone, of course, but a group of 3+ tends to be more convivial
• Food: Ah, here's where the joy comes in.. either go for fancy be creating some dishes such as:
• Quiche
• Taboulé Salad
• Tomato/Basil/Red Onion Salad
• BLT (Bacon Lettuce Tomato) Sandwiches
• Fruit salad
• Baguette
• OR simplify:
• Cherry Tomatoes
• Packs of Salami/saucisson
• Chips
• Brie/gooey fromage
• Baguette
• OR spend some cash:
• Go to Brind'Soupe on 70 rue masséna
• For 9 bucks get entrée/plat/dessert packed up and ready to go
• OR go to Pizza Hut on Rue Massena and get their 5 buck pizza deal
• Booze: Not obligatory, but tends to be much more fun and interesting with a chilled bottle of rosé wine in tow.
• Necessaries:
• Bottled water
• Napkins
• Trash bag
• Forks
• One knife
• Bottle opener

Now the spot.  There are three spots I like to visit in rotating occasions:

1/ The Parc de la Tête d'Or:  Everyone knows this place and it's usually a great place with a group of people. As a warning, avoid large crowded areas in the park or you could get hit in the head with a soccer ball.  We usually cycle up to the main entrance, take a right into the large park and find an area with a tree nearby.

2/ Place Antonin Poncet:  Suprisingly unknown to many, the little area that has a below level parking garage, located to la Rue des Marronniers, also has a fairly clean grassy area with a lovely fountain next door.  Need an address?  Just head for le Sud and then picnic in the grass.

3/ Sur le Quai:  Of course, typical evening spot on the waterfront.. side of the Rhone.  Fabulous area, and can always wander to a boat bar after for a digestive.

Here's some of my favorite picnics:

Quick - like the French version of McDonalds

Park among French friends (parc de la tête d'or) 2011

Best Picnic Ever (or close), rosé wine, cheese, chicken salad, baguette, chips.

What's your favorite picnic?

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The French Paradox

There's this thought that goes around called the "French Paradox"... it's this concept that although the French eat higher amounts of cheese, wine, bread and whole fat milk products- they are much healthier than those in the States.  Now, I've been living in Lyon for over a year now.. and can I honestly admit this paradox?  Yes.  Yes I can.

When I first moved to Lyon I was about 64 kgs, or 141 lbs. This was a steady weight gain from first meeting Bri, to visiting Lyon in the winter time.. to not really focusing on getting in shape.  The tipping point was a trip to Spain.. I ended up gaining another kilo (2 lbs) and I was frustrated.. but I didn't change much of how I ate (just no croissants every morning of course).  I was a size 8-10, and I felt unhappy... so I decided to live French and hope for the best!

Bri + Me in Spain, August 2010

The biggest changes happened in regards to movement.  In the States I would constantly drive everywhere, to the gym, to the store... I would never walk.  In September 2010 I moved into my new apartment, on the 4ème étage 'sans ascensor'.  Meaning every day I climb down, I have to climb back up 102 stairs.  Often I go out maybe 2-3x a day, that's like 306 stairs!

Going grocery shopping meant walking 1/2 mile to the store, buying what's needed, hauling it back 1/2 mile and then up the stairs.

The French Paradox relies on several factors:

1. We walk everywhere, and elevators are rarely used.
2. We have a Velo'V system that allows us to bike all over the city,  for example I use this to go to work and back every day.. 1.5 miles each way.. so I bike 3 miles a day
3. The food we eat enables us to purchase more fruits/vegetables, which we eat, regularly
4. Our bread is usually whole grain and made fresh with no preservatives
5. Most our food is non-preservative laden
6. We eat only whole fat, non sugar added dairy products
7. Products rarely have corn syrup
8. We don't eat with salad dressing, only vinaigrette so we get our whole fats in our food as well as a daily dosage of vinegar
9. Often we drink one glass of wine a day
10. Our meals are often a few courses of smaller plates that aides in digestion

Now sometimes I splurge, I'll do patisserie items, or enjoy a lovely Sunday fat rich meal- but I rarely eat Fast Food, restaurants don't do take out and we eat several small meals a day.

Now.  Proof of the paradox?

 

Me testing my Spain bikini (July 2011)

I see the difference, definitely.  I'm now 56 kg, or about 124 lbs and a size 4-6.  I lost more than 15 lbs in a year, but with no starving myself and no intensive workouts- just simply a change of eating in the French Paradox way.  The largest change I saw was in my waist- I went from 29 inches to 25.5 inches.  I never lost to that point in the states- crazy!

My official goal is 54 kg, or 120lbs.  I find for my height, that weight is appropriate- but I know now it will come off as it wants to.

So.  Now Americans should try out the paradox...

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Advice: Things to Know When Coming to France

I have been compiling a list mentally since I've moved to France regarding the differences and the things I must ABSOLUTELY avoid or DO while living in France.  It's sad, because many Americans who come overseas disregard it, and assume that Lyon is an extension of the States (it is most definitely NOT).  I can't count the countless times my French friends look disgustingly at Americans behaving rude or 'oddly' because they simply don't know how to behave differently.

DO
-Understand the difference between TU and VOUS
-Get used to putting your bread on the table, not on your plate
-Get some basic French phrases in your pocket
-Get ready to gain 10 lbs
-Compliment the host/hostess when invited to dinner
-Bring a GIFT when invited to dinner
-Learn how to use your knife and fork, 90 percent of French people use BOTH during dinner
-Finish your entire plate at dinner, there are no doggy bags
-Ask market vendors for what you would like
-Sauce your plate- mean sop up every piece with your bread.  A finished plate is a compliment.  Unfinished means you didn't like it that much.

DON'T
-Ask French women if they shave
-Be ignorant when someone proposes you try something new (i.e. forest mushrooms, Roquefort cheese)
-Assume everyone speaks english, because they don't
-Leave a tip, it makes you stick out as THE TOURIST
-Curse in French around people you don't know
-Ask for butter for your bread
-Ask for a 'Doggy Bag' at a restaurant
-Touch the produce at a market, unless the vendor says you can (they give you a basket and tell you to go at it)
-Make a face when someone mentions 'escargots', 'tripes', or 'pieds de cochons'.  They think the same thing about Pumpkin Pie and Sweet Potato Casserole with marshmallows.
-Serve yourself wine, the host/hostess serves this.

And yes, I made lots of mistakes.. it's only human.

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Story Time: Trip to the Salon

It took me one year and two months to build up the courage to go to a hair salon in France.  I had envisioned total destruction to my hair, as I had read a multitude of angry bloggers discussing their Bad Hair Experiences.  I was almost ready in May when I took a stroll with a good friend of mine from Sweden.  Her hair was tied up, and she mentioned she had recently got it cut.  When she took it down it was horrific.  The layers were mismatched, areas in the back were chunky and short... I put off the cutting until I saw a recent photo of myself and my blah hair:

I had went to a barbeque of a good friend, and after the photos came out I was a bit shocked.  My hair had become shaggy, worse the ends were torn up and abimés. It was officially time to get a hair cut.












The next logical step was to find a salon.  I knew I couldn't rely on them speaking English so I reviewed a blog post I had written a few months prior.  It discussed the typical words we use in the salon.  Alongside this I printed up some color photos to show what I wanted and prepared over a week for the cut.

I ended up calling a salon in the 6ème called, Lounge Cut.  Recommended by the Petit Paumé I was fully aware of the positive reviews of this place.  I called to take a reservation, and got in less than a week.

I was even more excited when I got there, and saw it was a nice little salon, with only 3 chairs for cutting, no giant hair factory.

I showed my photos and hashed through my French.  When I mentioned it had been over a year from my last cut; the coiffeuse was shocked.  She took about 3 inches of hair and said, "On doit les couper, si tu voudrais, car ils sont tellement abimés" I understood that one.  We should cut this much because I failed to respect my hair and I had split ends up the HIZZY.







I agreed.

The best part of Lounge Cut, is they cut it dry, like in many salons in the states.  She washed after, massaged my head, and then spent another 40 minutes styling.  I think next time I'll skip the 'brushing', but it did make my hair feel super soft.  She used scissors, not razors, unlike many French stylists.






Lei Wei, my stylist, also told me that there are a lot of English clients, and that Mark, another stylist can speak English.  So. Any one looking to get their hair cut by an English speaker, check out Lounge Cut and see Mark.  Lei Wei can also speak English, but she is better at understanding.


I felt great.  I promised to come back every 3 months, or 6 months maxi as she told me.

And the results, of my first cut in France?

I am happy.  It's definitely much more comfy for summer, I was smothering in my hair.

Not So Appropriate French Words

For me it is easy to pick up languages, I listen on the television, watch some French series.  I watch the news every morning on BFM television to see what actualities are up.  I often spend 2 weekends during the month at Brian's parent's house where I absorb and practice.

I've officially hit the level of French where no one teases me for huge errors nor accent mistakes- but little ways I pronounce my words they find cute.  I find it absolutely ridicule that they like my American accent.  I try my best to focus and really pronounce my words sans accent because I think the American accent sounds TERRIBLE.

I didn't, however, realize that the words we use around friends is probably not so appropriate around family or family friends.  I learned this Saturday night while enjoying an invitation to an old family friend.  I was surrounded by J and R, Bri's parents, and we wdere deep in discussion.  I spilled a bit of wine on myself and exclaimed, "PUTAIN!" The conversation stopped short, and about 6 pairs of beady French eyes stared at me.

J softly touched my arms and said, "Tu sais, ce n'est pas un mot très gentille...".  I felt aghast, wanted to run and hide in a closet.  In the States I rarely cursed around people, and it was never like I was a Sailor mouth or anything.  I looked down at my hands and looked back up to meet the beady eyes, "Qu'est-ce que c'est un meilleur moyen de le dire?" Then I got my next French lesson.  Appropriate curse words.

I guess I was always under the assumption the French were more liberal with curse words, I'd heard 10 year olds cursing in the street, parents cursing alongside them.  I would find out these people were in fact not being appropriate. Sex is freely portrayed around here, and the curse words that do pop on the screen are unblipped.  Also, when speaking a second language, these words have less meaning and so if it becomes a habit, it's one that is difficult to break.

Now my struggle and my retraining:

Putain will now be MINCE!
Salop will now be salaud.
Je vais pisser will now be je vais pipi ou je vais aller au toilette
Merde will now be mince.
La bite will not be said any more.

It's not easy.  I remember the day after I was talking about something and I almost slipped out a putain I covered it by saying instead; Pu----voirs... oui.. pouvoirs. The problem being putain is so much easier to say than mince, mince has a weird back of the throat I noise that I haven't quite mastered.

I guess lesson learned: just because you here the words every where does not mean they are appropriate everywhere.

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